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Old 09-23-2012, 08:04 PM
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Total Newb Question - wiring to car battery

Hey all - I am installing a CB radio this week and will be wiring directly to the car battery at the advice of several posters in this forum and numerous CB articles. The only issue is this: I am such a newb. I had a few questions:

1.) when running to the battery, do I just wire the red to the red? Should I run black to the negative terminal or should I just ground directly to the chassis somewhere?
2.) how do I attach a fuse to the wires?

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Old 09-24-2012, 11:03 AM   #2
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Hi,

Ideally, you should connect both the black and the red wires to the battery. When connecting the red, use something like:

Name:  Blade Fuse Holder.jpg
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They are available at most auto parts stores, Walmart, etc. The general consensus is that you should use crimp connectors rather than soldering. Put the fuse holder right next to the battery. This helps when the power wire gets shorted somewhere between the battery and the CB.

And yes, the red goes to the + and the black goes to the - posts on the battery.

Good Luck.

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Old 09-24-2012, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n6hal View Post
Hi,

Ideally, you should connect both the black and the red wires to the battery. When connecting the red, use something like:

Attachment 163259

They are available at most auto parts stores, Walmart, etc. The general consensus is that you should use crimp connectors rather than soldering. Put the fuse holder right next to the battery. This helps when the power wire gets shorted somewhere between the battery and the CB.

And yes, the red goes to the + and the black goes to the - posts on the battery.

Good Luck.
Thanks! Great post and thanks for answering q's for a like me.
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:26 PM   #4
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Not to confuse the issue, but you should be using a switched +12v source or a relay. Connecting to constant +12v will mean your CB will have power constantly. Only the CB power on/off will be the power button.That means if you leave the CB on overnight, you will have a dead battery the next day.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynskey
Not to confuse the issue, but you should be using a switched +12v source or a relay. Connecting to constant +12v will mean your CB will have power constantly. Only the CB power on/off will be the power button.That means if you leave the CB on overnight, you will have a dead battery the next day.
Other side of the coin, your radio works without other drain on the battery from the ign circuit. Valid point though.

Some fancier radios have shut off timers for just such occasions.

Connecting through the cig lighter or fuse panel can (will) cause whine. N6HAL gave ya solid advice.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:14 PM   #6
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The radio works because it runs off of the RAP (Retained Accessory Power) feature and EVIC has a timer function added to that. That's why you can listen to the radio with the key out of ignition and it turns off when you open a door - or the set timer interval is reached.

I would just hate for the guy to wire it to the battery and the next morning the battery is dead from forgetting to turn off the CB. If switched +12v causes altenator whine at the cig lighter, then I would suggest a relay fused to the battery and operated from switched +12v. No whine that way. Good stuff either way. Just remember to fuse appropriately.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:25 PM   #7
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For sure, the best install would be a RAP, which in a YJ would be easiest with a timer, not a pressure switch. But for someone asking which colors to connect where, thats a bit of a complicated install. No offense whatsoever intended to either you or the OP.

Timers only decrease the draw on your battery, dont eliminate the risk. My radio RXs at a tiny usage, and stand by mode can run for days, if i didnt have a 3hr timer.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:30 PM   #8
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Didn't catch the Jeep model. Newer Jeeps have the RAP as part of the CANBus and timer function as part of the EVIC. I guess the OP has an older model? Yeah relays and added electronics take a bit of info to wire up.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:39 PM   #9
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Im assuming from the screen name and avatar.

I hate CAN/BUS. Hate OBDII for that matter. And airbags, computers, TPMS, etc, etc. Too much to brake, to expensive to PAY to be fixed, forget doing it yourself. Needless to say its all replace or reflash, NEVER repair... but now Im way off topic, so, yea. Wire the radio, test the SWR, and let us know how well it does.
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:55 AM   #10
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We'll my experience (19 yrs playing with cbs and an EET degree) agrees with most of the above. Going direct to the batt is the best method to get power without picking up noise, an appropriatly sized relay would easily save forgetting to cut it off, if you're worried about that. I would think the sound of static or soft signals would be a reminder. Also just receiving not transmitting a cb pulls very little power and should take quite a long time to drain the battery. On the fuse note I prefer to put an inline fuse at both ends, next to the batt and also next to the device (it may already have a fuse in the power cord from the factory but not always). That way you protect the car electronics, if any, as well as the device from damage if that wiring is compromised.

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Old 09-26-2012, 09:13 AM
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Sorry - I've been gone and waiting on my CB parts to come in. I just got the CB in last night and will be mounting in the center console tonight. I need to figure out how to run the coax.

Ok - I have another question - how do I crimp the wires together from the CB's original power cords so i can get enough length to run to the battery? What kind of wire should I get?
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:14 AM
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BTW - I have a 2012 JK.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:35 AM   #13
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Since you have a 2012, I am willing to bet that if you tap into the front dash cig plug, you won't get any altenator whine. That plug is switched +12v. It is worth a shot to do that first, test it out and if you get no whine, call it done!
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:01 PM
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Hey Lynskey - do you think I could just plug into the fusebox and give it a whirl?
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:46 PM   #15
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The cig socket will likely still cause ignition whine; it doesn't really have anything to do with the year of the vehicle.

If you want it to only have power when the truck is on, the best way to do so is with a relay as mentioned above. Go to your local autoparts store and buy a standard automotive SPDT realy, at least 4 female crimp spades(preferably insulated), a fuse holder like the one pictured above, and some 16-14 guage primary wire if you don't have any. Connect the wiring to the relay with the crimp spades, and wire it up like this:
Terminal 85 - Ground
Terminal 86 - the positive side of the switched cig socket
Terminal 87 - Positive battery post
Terminal 87A- Not used
Terminal 30 - Your CB's positive 12volt input.

Ground your CB as close to the actual CB as possible, and scrape the paint away from whatever metal surface you ground it to.

I'm not sure why someone above would recommend crimps over soldering - especially under the hood. Soldering your connections is the best option, it is more resistant to corrosion and is less likely to experience a voltage drop across the connection.
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:22 PM   #16
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^ that.

But let me add:

Crimping is OK, especially if you dont have experience soldering, as a bad joint is more likely to seperate 4 wheelin, but soldering does make (electrically) 2 wires into 1 which is a better connection if done right.

Ive heard to ground back to the battery independently to avoid picking up common ground noise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AU95
BTW - I have a 2012 JK.
Guess I was way off
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:52 PM
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Ugh - waiting on the K4A mount which was supposedly delivered today. Have everything else ready to rock n roll.
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:12 PM   #18
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I have a 2012 JKU and just finished my CB install. I'm curious to where you are planning on running the wire to the battery. I came up with a less than ideal solution that doesn't go through the firewall but seems to be working fine so far. I couldn't find any really good way to run it through. I read some people take off the dash in order to access one of the holes but I really don't want to have to do that.
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:55 PM   #19
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I just went through the passenger floor drain whole. If your looking at your engine from the front of the car, your battery is on the left, and I just dropped the wire down the left corner until it came hanging out underneath the car, then tucked in under the car and through the floor drain whole
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:48 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Jakesna View Post
I just went through the passenger floor drain whole. If your looking at your engine from the front of the car, your battery is on the left, and I just dropped the wire down the left corner until it came hanging out underneath the car, then tucked in under the car and through the floor drain whole
^^ This is a terrible idea.

Personally I stay away from the fusebox. But that is just me.
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:45 AM   #21
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wouldnt just getting an SPOD and hooking it up to that be the best way?
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:17 PM   #22
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wouldnt just getting an SPOD and hooking it up to that be the best way?
Depends on your setup I guess. I have a tuffy box up top for the CB so I can't mount an SPOD up where they have the bracket.

Good mention though, they have an installation video on their website that shows them going through the firewall hole on the drivers side. I thought about doing that but I really didn't want to break the seal just for one little wire.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:21 PM
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Okay guys - I got the CB and have installed the RR mount and grounded to a screw on the body of the jeep (on back right If looking at the back of the jeep).

Okay - so now when mounting the CB to the center console I can't figure out how to run a wire flush inside the console. How can I do it without drilling a hole (cheating in my eyes) into the console?? I am guessing I can remove the cigarette lighter outlet that's inside the center console and run it through there...thoughts on this approach?
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:18 PM
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