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-   -   Broke It... Now What? (https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/broke-it-now-what-1794145.html)

mountainkatt 07-20-2016 04:00 PM

Broke It... Now What?
 
Well I finally did it... I bent the front axle housing on my 2013 JKU.

So I ask you, the jeep-public, for some opinions on what is next. I can either replace the housing or upgrade it. But what to upgrade to?

Ghost is an overland based jeep - I run conservative 33s, a 3" lift. I don't want anything insane, and I don't want to break the bank.

Suggestions and thoughts, oh-most-knowledgable-jeepers?

Leadnut 07-20-2016 04:15 PM

Dynatrac PR44 with the thick wall tubing option or similar. At least that's what I went with, it's about as HD as an unmodified 44 gets.

The Professor 07-20-2016 04:22 PM

What did you do to bend it?

mountainkatt 07-20-2016 04:38 PM

I suspect it had to do with foolish off-roading. Or running to Moab and back on 33s, if the bendability of the Dana 30s can be believed.

mommymallcrawler 07-20-2016 04:47 PM

Did you have a truss or sleeves?

mountainkatt 07-20-2016 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mommymallcrawler (Post 26646633)
Did you have a truss or sleeves?

I'm going to say probably not if they don't come from factory. :doh:

mommymallcrawler 07-20-2016 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainkatt (Post 26646681)
I'm going to say probably not if they don't come from factory. :doh:

About $200ish of welded steel truss could've saved your Axle (an inside sleeve I believe is even less).

BreakIt 07-20-2016 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mommymallcrawler (Post 26646761)
About $200ish of welded steel truss could've saved your Axle (an inside sleeve I believe is even less).

yeah the sleeves are like under $100 but the install is expensive. Still much less than a new axle!

mountainkatt 07-20-2016 05:05 PM

So if I have the option to, say, have a local shop straighten out and true my axle housing... and add a sleeve, I may get off with a lower cost and a lesson learned?

Captain Ed 07-20-2016 05:23 PM

If you are going to wheel it then get the PR44 and be done with it. I D30 is nice for light duty but Moab and rocks will eventually cause you issues. Don't cheap out on it if you plan to wheel it. A D30 is only so tough and can be enhanced to be better but why keep chasing potential issues. You aren't going to trust that axle again! I say this because I am in the process of research and replace too. Good Luck.

mountainkatt 07-20-2016 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Ed (Post 26647121)
If you are going to wheel it then get the PR44 and be done with it. I D30 is nice for light duty but Moab and rocks will eventually cause you issues. Don't cheap out on it if you plan to wheel it. A D30 is only so tough and can be enhanced to be better but why keep chasing potential issues. You aren't going to trust that axle again! I say this because I am in the process of research and replace too. Good Luck.

Moab, while amazing, is a solid 4000km (2400mi) from me (and that was a fun drive!). Our local Canadian wheeling is pretty mud/dirt road heavy. That being said, our style is mostly overland, with some local wheeling in between - read: I can't afford a toy-jeep right now so I have to be careful with my overland/daily driver.

I should probably just replace the damn thing... even though my husband can get it straightened at work.

Leadnut 07-20-2016 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainkatt (Post 26646905)
So if I have the option to, say, have a local shop straighten out and true my axle housing... and add a sleeve, I may get off with a lower cost and a lesson learned?

Regarding sleeves, from basic engineering adding 1/4" of thickness to the inside of a 2.5" tube does very little to increase the section modulus (a fundamental property for structural strength) compared to adding the thickness on the outer diameter. Adding sleeves IMO is throwing good money after bad. On top of that the ring gear diameter on the D30 is smaller than the D44 and that can cause another failure point.

damndirtydog 07-20-2016 06:01 PM

Yes replace it. Trying to repair it may only cause more frustration and tire wear if the axle isn't true.
Man you must have slammed that thing if you're only running 33s. I been running 35s with no trusses or sleeves for 2 years on rock and, knock on wood, have not bent anything.....yet.

Dodge4me 07-20-2016 06:13 PM

Find a cheap take off from someone on the forums, or Local Craigslist is saving money is the immediate need. If the gearing is the same and in, you can do the swap in a couple hours yourself. For good measure, gusset, and sleeve or truss before putting in.
I run 35" on my D30 all over including Moab. No issues. Just be easy on the skinny peddle.

HK_Runner 07-20-2016 06:31 PM

I'd have to say replace it. This is not a cheap upgrade but it is one where I'd go with something like a PR44. I have a gusseted and trussed Dana 44 with 35s and it has held out well so far. I am hoping I don't have to mess with it since I'm not in the mood for any more mods, but if it went, I'd consider one of the aftermarket 44s....maybe even 37s. Still, fingers crossed since I have other money pits.

damndirtydog 07-21-2016 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dodge4me (Post 26647753)
Find a cheap take off from someone on the forums, or Local Craigslist is saving money is the immediate need. If the gearing is the same and in, you can do the swap in a couple hours yourself. For good measure, gusset, and sleeve or truss before putting in. I run 35" on my D30 all over including Moab. No issues. Just be easy on the skinny peddle.

^^ all excellent advice. Going easy on the peddle and picking good lines when wheeling increases your rigs longevity.

mountainkatt 07-21-2016 12:16 PM

Thank you for all your advice guys! I really appreciate it.


Update:
The diagnosis from the dealership (we took it there expecting just to have the axle seal replaced under warranty again) was: bent axle housing, worn ball joints, throttle body water damaged, front u-joints need replacing, rear brakes, fluids etc.

We have a fairly poor relationship with our local dealership as a club (actually they have a very poor reputation in town), which is too bad. Either way, I don't particularly trust them. So I got a second opinion from a local shop (who I would have taken it too had I not been anticipating warranty work).

Their diagnosis:
They have no idea how the dealership decided the axle housing was bent as apparently you need to do an alignment to tell and that can't be done on my jeep right now.
Ball joints and drag links need replacing big time. rear brakes, and of course the U-joints.

:censored: dealership...

sfadchi 07-21-2016 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainkatt (Post 26657209)
Thank you for all your advice guys! I really appreciate it.


Update:
The diagnosis from the dealership (we took it there expecting just to have the axle seal replaced under warranty again) was: bent axle housing, worn ball joints, throttle body water damaged, front u-joints need replacing, rear brakes, fluids etc.

We have a fairly poor relationship with our local dealership as a club (actually they have a very poor reputation in town), which is too bad. Either way, I don't particularly trust them. So I got a second opinion from a local shop (who I would have taken it too had I not been anticipating warranty work).

Their diagnosis:
They have no idea how the dealership decided the axle housing was bent as apparently you need to do an alignment to tell and that can't be done on my jeep right now.
Ball joints and drag links need replacing big time. rear brakes, and of course the U-joints.

:censored: dealership...

Why can't your jeep be put on an alignment rack right now? :confused:

mountainkatt 07-21-2016 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfadchi (Post 26657441)
Why can't your jeep be put on an alignment rack right now? :confused:

Apparently the ball joints and drag links are too bad to do it at this time.

sfadchi 07-21-2016 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainkatt (Post 26657649)
Apparently the ball joints and drag links are too bad to do it at this time.

That will do it!

Captain Ed 07-21-2016 04:29 PM

Did you check your track bar and either way did you do the northridge grade 8 bolt upgrade. If you have been banging a stock track bar around eventually things are gonna get weird.

jadmt 07-21-2016 04:44 PM

How many miles? Hard to believe u joints are shot.

rsmwrangler 07-21-2016 05:15 PM

So the axle is not bent then ? just a shot front TB and ball joints ?
Kind of confusing, lol
and yes, I've been told by some of the hardcore Jeepers around my local area, spending money on sleeves is wasted money on a factory JK D30, and that while i save for that aftermarket 44, HD BJ's and knuckle gussets is all we need.

CowboysFromHell 07-21-2016 05:55 PM

Side question: most of the gusset, sleeve, truss discussion I see is focused on the front axle. I have a Rubicon, so D44 front and rear. Is the front the primary concern, or does the rear need some love too? I just put a lift on and 35" tires. Got the front trussed and c-gussets, but my shop said the rear is not as much of a concern. The front takes all of the abuse from bouncing, turning, etc. Just wondering if I should consider trussing the rear as well???

mountainkatt 07-22-2016 10:50 AM

The housing "likley isn't" bent, according to the trusted shop.

I have 75,000 kilometers on the jeep (about 46,000 mi).

I have a Zone Adjustable Trac Bar, not factory.

The ball joints are shot, as is the drag link. Ball joints will be going with the Teraflex or the Synergy. The drag link IS stock and I will be upgrading to a highsteer (probably AEV). The front U-joint needs to be replaced, apparently.

If we get all that done and find that the axle housing ISN'T bent, then I will be trussing it ASAP!

beachrat 07-22-2016 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CowboysFromHell (Post 26661753)
Side question: most of the gusset, sleeve, truss discussion I see is focused on the front axle. I have a Rubicon, so D44 front and rear. Is the front the primary concern, or does the rear need some love too? I just put a lift on and 35" tires. Got the front trussed and c-gussets, but my shop said the rear is not as much of a concern. The front takes all of the abuse from bouncing, turning, etc. Just wondering if I should consider trussing the rear as well???

I just had my front D44 trussed and gusseted when I went to 37s. From what I understand, the rear isn't really necessary unless you're just beating the hell out of it.

TerryC6 07-22-2016 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsmwrangler (Post 26661361)
So the axle is not bent then ? just a shot front TB and ball joints ?
Kind of confusing, lol
and yes, I've been told by some of the hardcore Jeepers around my local area, spending money on sleeves is wasted money on a factory JK D30, and that while i save for that aftermarket 44, HD BJ's and knuckle gussets is all we need.

IMO I think sleeves are misunderstood by most. Sleeves do provide about a 20% increase in bending strength but the biggest benefit is in armor strength. It takes much more force to dimple or punch a hole in the tube. And consider that Nitro sleeves only cost approx $100 it is cheap insurance in my mind.

As far as adding a truss even to a D30 I guess that depends. A trussed D30 is almost as strong as an aftermarket D44 with the weak link being the housing itself. A trussed stock D44 is stronger than the aftermarket offerings. So the need for an aftermarket D44 comes down to do you need improve your pinion angle or need castor correction. Of course there also is the question of how hard you wheel it, are you already breaking stuff.

An Artec truss kit cost $300 and includes the truss, gussets, LCA skids and a heavy duty track bar bracket. If you can weld yourself its very cheap insurance. Even if you can't it is still cheap in my mind compared to the aftermarket. But again it all depends on what you really need.

loud0g40oz 08-03-2016 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainkatt (Post 26669153)
The housing "likley isn't" bent, according to the trusted shop.

I have 75,000 kilometers on the jeep (about 46,000 mi).

I have a Zone Adjustable Trac Bar, not factory.

The ball joints are shot, as is the drag link. Ball joints will be going with the Teraflex or the Synergy. The drag link IS stock and I will be upgrading to a highsteer (probably AEV). The front U-joint needs to be replaced, apparently.

If we get all that done and find that the axle housing ISN'T bent, then I will be trussing it ASAP!



Definitely replace the drag link. I went with Synergy. The stock JK drag link is a POS. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...2cf7132dd8.jpg

mountainkatt 08-05-2016 04:58 PM

Annnnd Another Update:

Damn thing is bent. Sorta.

Changed the ball joint and drag link. Took to to a shop and got a 4-wheel alignment. They were able to deduce that my axle housing is "sagged" towards the diff, by around 3/16 of an inch.

The verdict is that the incident in question to have caused that kind of damage would have been both tires coming off the ground and landing solidly. Only time I can think of doing that was chasing Pewe down a dirt road WAY WAY WAY too fast in Arizona (seriously how do you Americans drive offroad down there?!). So if I bent the damn thing on a Jp Mag run, well then I guess I can live with that haha.

Either way, we spoke to some friendly engineers and a machine shop. We have ordered a truss kit and they will true the housing and attach the truss kit at the same time.


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