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-   -   Yj rear drum questions (https://www.wranglerforum.com/f218/yj-rear-drum-questions-2384563.html)

KING OF AUDIO 12-05-2019 05:39 PM

Yj rear drum questions
 
When I got it the auto adjuster I think it's called. (The piece that spins to adjust with a screwdriver from the back side). Was missing some parts like the cable and spring.

Bought a repair kit from lordco put the missing parts back on. 50 miles later I limp it home. Chances are I did some thing wrong as it left a score in the drum. The peice that makes contact with the auto adjuster.

KING OF AUDIO 12-05-2019 05:43 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Rear drum pic

89yjONEMORE! 12-05-2019 08:10 PM

A little different from mine but Iím pretty sure the spring on the bottom should be behind the flat bracket. The flat bracket should be against the adjustment wheel to keep it locked in place.


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KING OF AUDIO 12-05-2019 09:29 PM

That's the issue there not where it should be. Even if I flipped the spring it would look the same. It's like the wire/spring for the kit is too long

yjbestj 12-05-2019 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89yjONEMORE! (Post 34610897)
A little different from mine but Iím pretty sure the spring on the bottom should be behind the flat bracket. The flat bracket should be against the adjustment wheel to keep it locked in place.


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What keeps the adjustment wheel in place is the spring resting on top of it.
That "flat bracket" pulls up when you use the parking brake and spins the adjuster to tighten up the rear brakes every time you park. With the parking brake off it should be down like that.

Bo Harris 12-05-2019 09:44 PM

This is how it should look.
 
1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 4189031

MannyN 12-06-2019 11:01 AM

This is the right side setup, the left setup is mirror imaged.

KING OF AUDIO 12-06-2019 04:54 PM

I've been doing some google kung fu. Turns out I'm not the only person complaining about this. The complaints seem to be that the wire is to long to keep reasonable tension. Anybody got a part# and brand of a kit that worked for them?
Mine is a raybestos kit.

12b 12-06-2019 05:26 PM

Pretty sure I used Centric parts on mine... No problems
Right side 11962037
Left side 11962036

KING OF AUDIO 12-07-2019 03:34 AM

I ordered some napa branded ones. Will see if they fit. If not I got a lead on cherokee part out for the rear brakes.

jkp 12-07-2019 07:23 PM

I just put the Advance Auto kits on mine. Perfect match to OEM parts.

KING OF AUDIO 12-07-2019 08:01 PM

No to the napa kit. Same issue.

KING OF AUDIO 12-07-2019 08:02 PM

May just have to buy a used brake assembly

KING OF AUDIO 12-07-2019 08:08 PM

1 Attachment(s)
It this gap normal??

Luckymac 12-08-2019 12:33 AM

No. That gap isn't normal. The lever should be touching the teeth in the adjusting wheel.

Find a post by Got it at last. In his signature there's a free link to several Factory Service manuals and a couple Factory Parts Manuals.
Open that link and click on the manual that you need.

Read through the brake section in the Factory service Manual for your Jeep.

Good Luck, L.M.

Luckymac 12-08-2019 12:38 AM

BTW, the brakes on '1987-1990 YJs are a different size than the brakes on 1991-1995 YJs.

Could a PO have changed axles?
I have a '87 with 3:07 gears and am in the process of prepping a set of '93 4:10 ratio axles. It's a common swap. The brakes are significantly different.

Good Luck, L.M.

Gottagofast 12-08-2019 12:44 AM

Fwiw lucky... you CAN keep your brakes, and semi float axles shafts when you swap if you choose

Luckymac 12-08-2019 04:59 PM

Thanks Gottagofast, I figured that was the case. My 3:07 rear axle has a grumble that sounds like carrier bearings, but if it's a wheel bearing, I'll have to change a wheel bearing if I switch axle shafts & brakes. I have a 20T press, so it's only a minor job, rather than a big pain.
The deciding factor was when I opened up the 4:10 axle and everything looked so good and turned so smooth with so little end play at the axle shaft ends. It appears that the 4:10 axle had been checked out not too long before the donor Jeep was junked. The fluid came out amber and inside the pumpkin was way cleaner than I would have expected. The brakes, brake drums, brake hardware and metal brake lines appear to be recently replaced. Both axles are at the sandblaster right now and should be ready to pick up mid week, next week.

The old axles are only worth their weight in scrap, so I'll store them out behind the shop in case I might need some part or another.

I have a project to do for the church, so it might be a week or two before I can get the 4:10 axles installed. I'll paint them as soon as I get them back.

Good Luck, L.M.

Got it at last 12-08-2019 08:04 PM

If only you knew somebody who knew how to paint. LOL

Luckymac 12-08-2019 09:17 PM

When I worked the line, I was a body technician. Most bodymen can do a little painting and most painters can do a little body work. When I did my old heap, I pulled all the trim, had it media blasted, repaired a couple small dings and had it sprayed by a real painter. It still cost me $2K.

When the axles come back from the sandblaster they get 3 coats of gloss black Rustolium.
I buy the good stuff, with the primer already in the paint. I'm the king of rattle cans.

Good luck, L.M.

Gottagofast 12-08-2019 10:55 PM

If ur into rattle cans try VHT epoxy....
It's a little more expensive than rustoleum but much better

Luckymac 12-09-2019 12:03 PM

I'll check it out. Thanks.

Good Luck, L.M.

Nubby55 12-21-2019 07:21 PM

Hey King, is it possible that the wire that is hooked to the adjuster plate is in wrong place. then the spring would be pulling the adjuster plate [bar] up against the gear. Other wise the cable just looks like its for a larger break system.


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