SYE/CV Drive Shaft???
Ok guys I'm new and this is what I got on my 06 TJ...
I also have the transfer case lowering kit installed. My question is does anyone actually run that sort of setup for Off-Road use? Would I be wise to invest my money in a SYE and CV drive shaft? Am I being to hard on my rig? Whats something like that going to cost me? Your thoughts, opinions, and experience are greatly appreciated.
Not sure on cost...but SYE is better than running a t-case lowering kit since you'll get a lil more ground clearance without it, but if you're not getting any vibes and you dont off-road a ton, it's probably not crucial to get one right away.
Granted I dunno much about TJ's (ole man has a rubi I did) but I have never run a CV shaft on a YJ or anything else I own. I don't like the idea of having 3 joints in a driveshaft versus two, and they are tiny joints at that. The basic concept of a CV shaft is simple. When you lift something your moving the distance between the output of the transfer case and the input yoke to the rear end further apart vertically. The purpose of a CV is by using two joints instead of one, the angle needed to achieve vertical droop is divided in half. The way I have always solved this dilema is rotate the rear end back to within tollerance and weld away. I do know this is not that easy on a TJ because of the coil spring bracketry...but if I did one, that's what I would do.
As you have found out, the problem with lifting a Wrangler is that the rear driveline is so short, and the angles get out of whack. An SYE fixes this by moving the output of the t-case forward 6" (although there are some varying kits which move it forward even more) which helps aleviate some of the angle. A fixed yoke style output replaces the slip yoke of the OE setup, which makes all of the slip in the driveshaft. (Basically, as your supsension cycles up and down, the driveshaft length changes. The stock style has the t-case output "floating" back and forth, while the SYE style requires the driveshaft to collaps and extend some, such as the OE front shaft on your Jeep).
The CV shaft also requires all of the angle to be absorbed by the CV joint (the 2 U-joints that are tandem together at the t case end), and the u-joint down by the axle has no angle. This requires that a TJ has at least 1 set of adjustible control arms, in order to dial in the correct angle. Basically, the pinion yoke must point up at the back of the t-case. The CV shaft can be ordered with u-joints of any size. However most applications the stock sized (non-Rubi) 1310 works just fine unless you are really hard on your Jeep in areas with lots of traction and or run big (I'd say IMO over 35") tires.
A great source of information is from Tom Wood at Tom Wood's Custom Driveline www.4xshaft.com. He is a straight shooting guy and will answer your questions w/o trying to push you into buying something.
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