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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '04 Rubicon is leaking from the rear main. Is this an engine out or trans out procedure to fix?

thanks,
Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
are you saying that both halves can be replaced after pan removal, or just the lower side?

Is the lower side usually the culprit anyway?
 

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both halves can be replaced with oil pan out. Once you get to bottom half of that seal - you are 95% to getting the top half out.

Check youtube - there are several good videos.
 

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I had the work done by a mechanic who used hand tools and changed the oil pan gasket at the same time. This took him about 2 hours to complete the job, but my 4.0 is not leaking oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
this engine has 140k miles. while the patient is open I was thinking of putting in a new oil pump.

is there any harm to a higher volume pump, or do I want to stay standard volume and pressure?
 

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I had the work done by a mechanic who used hand tools and changed the oil pan gasket at the same time. This took him about 2 hours to complete the job, but my 4.0 is not leaking oil.
That's impressive. I usually spend two hours just cleaning gasket residue off the block. And wiping oil out of my eyes.
 

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I would not put a high volume pump in an older stock engine. Hi volume pumps are mostly for high performance engines with higher bearing clearances. If you have a situation where your crank seal (crank) is not the best all you would do is exacerbate the issue while at the same time there is more stress on the drive portion of the engine that drive the pump. Defiantly clean everything out well there are some nice Utube films on replacing the seal looks easy enough. I plan to do it myself Bob Harrison
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok, got it. Since the mileage is so high, I ordered a new stock volume pump as well as gaskets and a new seal.

A nice messy weekend job after the threat of snow passes...
 

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Take the pan off as soon as you can and let it drip as much oil off everything as you can so its easier to clean/get ready for the new seals...
 

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I've done mine twice (most recently 2 weeks ago). The biggest pain, for me at least, is getting the exhaust off. From there it's a pretty straight forward job. This site came in pretty handy, especially for torque specs, etc. Also, make sure to use anaerobic sealant on your seal. Had to hunt around for some locally. I was surprised at how many auto parts stores don't stock it. NAPA does.
 

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look for the Utube that the guy used a plastic straw cut in half to help guide the seal back in the block with. I don't believe he took the exhaust off either but maybe that was model specific. He had a couple of nice tips one showing you exactly where to put the sealant on the pan where it meets the joints that usually leak when you don't get the corners sealed but look at the video for these locations rather than attempt to under stand what I was saying. He also used soap to help slide the upper seal back in the block. I can see two sides of arguments for using this method not sure about it myself but I can see why it would work just not sure what the residual effects of using soap. Bob
 

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I second the advice of being extra careful when inserting the upper seal half. Its very easy to slice the outside edge of the seal.

One thing to be aware of is, when I ordered the seal from Quadratec, they sent me the wrong one. The one they sent was just the round style without the tabs on the lower seal half. I'm not sure if the later year engines don't have the tabs, or if its a 4 cyl engine seal or what. I was able to find the correct part at Napa.

Its just frustrating to find out late in the game that you have the wrong part. My advice would be to buy two seals when you find the right part if the store is across town or so. I sliced mine on the first try.
 
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