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Grumpy Old Guy
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Once you get it sorted, make sure the dealership didnt inflate the tires to 45,000psi like most of them like to do and I wouldnt trust anyone... and have the dealership do an alignment for you for free. Flighty driving is a hazard and should have been sorted by the dealership before you left.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I should also note I tried moving things around by hand (I’m no Hercules lol) and I didn’t notice any thing too loose or abnormal. But an alignment shop will be able to tell better. I want to get the pitman arm corrected and that other bracket put in (if I don’t already have one) before I get an alignment
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2015 Anvil JKUR Hard Rock.
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You need the bracket on the right. You see where my track bar is bolted to? My shock is bolted to the bracket
20210526_153021.jpg
 

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Here’s my Synergy bracket and RPM Steering flip kit. The big grade 8 bolt is the original track bar bolt location. The new location is behind the drag link. Raised 3” to match the flip.



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What it looks like now.
20210604_104104.jpg
 

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That mount should be raised so the tb and drag link are as parallel as possible.

I cant imagine a drag link flip without running a raised bracket but who knows what happened.

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Yeah it doesn’t seem to have that bracket. Does anyone know where I can buy just the bracket? Or do you think I better off to replace with a whole new kit? I’m considering that so I at least know what I have and what brand is under there. I’m thinking rock auto for the pitman arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Ok I found a bracket by Ruged ridge on eBay and a pitman arm from rock auto. After I get those in I’ll get an alignment done. Hopefully that makes a huge difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·

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Ok I found a bracket by Ruged ridge on eBay and a pitman arm from rock auto. After I get those in I’ll get an alignment done. Hopefully that makes a huge difference.
Rr axle side bracket will work but would recommend getting something more stout.

There are quite a few good options out there.

Yeti
Synergy
Metalcloak
Jks

Etc.

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Rr axle side bracket will work but would recommend getting something more stout.

There are quite a few good options out there.

Yeti
Synergy
Metalcloak
Jks

Etc.

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I was actually considering this. However I don’t know how to weld. Can turn nuts and bolts all day just never got around to the welding department. I got a guy who is excellent welder who does most of the stuff I need done. I was going to consult with him first see if it’s something he thinks he can do with the welder his job will let him take home for projects or not. Not that I really absolutely need all of this but it’ll get the job done and for the cost of it doesn’t look like a bad deal. Right now I am fine with going cheap figure out what my problems are fix said problems so that it drives well enough. I can go back with confidence replace this rugged ridge unit with something better once I get the kinks worked out.
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Here’s my Synergy bracket and RPM Steering flip kit. The big grade 8 bolt is the original track bar bolt location. The new location is behind the drag link. Raised 3” to match the flip.



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So are you happy with that flip kit? It sure looks nice under there. Considering getting one to replace mine. Figure new flip kit a bracket for track bar and a new pitman arm and see how it goes. Hopefully the gear box itself isn’t toast if it is I might go back on the dealer on that one but then again they didn’t really impress me much so kinda hesitant there also. Gotta figure they supposedly went through it and missed the sway bar being loose and bolted to the wrong side of the tab on my drive home the pass side wiper blade fell off even lol (I guess it happens and probably not hard to miss this stuff but it don’t leave a good impression of thier mechanics) so yeah I’d trust myself fixing it before I trust them
 

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So are you happy with that flip kit? It sure looks nice under there. Considering getting one to replace mine. Figure new flip kit a bracket for track bar and a new pitman arm and see how it goes. Hopefully the gear box itself isn’t toast if it is I might go back on the dealer on that one but then again they didn’t really impress me much so kinda hesitant there also. Gotta figure they supposedly went through it and missed the sway bar being loose and bolted to the wrong side of the tab on my drive home the pass side wiper blade fell off even lol (I guess it happens and probably not hard to miss this stuff but it don’t leave a good impression of thier mechanics) so yeah I’d trust myself fixing it before I trust them
Yeah so far I’m liking it. It seems to flatten out steering in turns from raising the roll center back to roughly stock. Quality components that fit well. One of the easier installs I’ve had even with drilling out the knuckle. The steering is still a little loose on center, but I’m guessing that’s either a bit of slop in the steering gear or the inherent qualities of a SFA. But it tightened up the steering and gave a better feel. I like it. And I don’t blame you. I’m to the point with the Jeep that if something is broken or needs attention I want to be the one to do it.


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I used the AEV flip kit that uses the Factory Jeep right hand drive (euro) draglink end. This is the second Jeep I’ve used this kit on.


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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Just something else I noticed thought of the track bar is an adjustable one. I am guessing that shouldn’t make a difference in needing the bracket that lifts it up? Also any info on telling if that is adjusted to the correct length? Not too long not too short?
 

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Just something else I noticed thought of the track bar is an adjustable one. I am guessing that shouldn’t make a difference in needing the bracket that lifts it up? Also any info on telling if that is adjusted to the correct length? Not too long not too short?
Having an adjustable track bar is not the same thing as having a track bar bracket. You can have both, and it is common to do so in the rear. The track bar bracket changes the geometry of the track bar, allowing it to be closer to level on a lifted Jeep. Having the track bar be adjustable for length allows you to set the length so the axle is centered side to side, otherwise sometimes a Jeep will have one wheel protruding further out than the other side. Not the end of the world, but I prefer symmetrical.
The correct length of an adjustable track bar is the length required to center the axle / tires side to side, so that each tire sticks out the same amount.
You should typically have a rear track bar bracket on a lifted Jeep. If it is lifted enough, a front track bar bracket becomes a good idea. If you run a front track bar bracket you need to run a flipped drag link as well. Never run a raised track bar bracket without also modifying the drag link geometry to match. The front track bar and drag link must be parallel or you will encounter bumpsteer.
It is common to run just an adjustable front track bar, unlike the rear where it is common to run both an adjustable track bar and a rear track bar bracket. The front should only run a front track bar bracket if it also has a flipped drag link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Having an adjustable track bar is not the same thing as having a track bar bracket. You can have both, and it is common to do so in the rear. The track bar bracket changes the geometry of the track bar, allowing it to be closer to level on a lifted Jeep. Having the track bar be adjustable for length allows you to set the length so the axle is centered side to side, otherwise sometimes a Jeep will have one wheel protruding further out than the other side. Not the end of the world, but I prefer symmetrical.
The correct length of an adjustable track bar is the length required to center the axle / tires side to side, so that each tire sticks out the same amount.
You should typically have a rear track bar bracket on a lifted Jeep. If it is lifted enough, a front track bar bracket becomes a good idea. If you run a front track bar bracket you need to run a flipped drag link as well. Never run a raised track bar bracket without also modifying the drag link geometry to match. The front track bar and drag link must be parallel or you will encounter bumpsteer.
It is common to run just an adjustable front track bar, unlike the rear where it is common to run both an adjustable track bar and a rear track bar bracket. The front should only run a front track bar bracket if it also has a flipped drag link.
well I am being told my drag link is flipped which can be seen in my photos. But there doesn’t appear to be any sort of bracket for the track bar. So I have a rr track bar relocation bracket. A new pitman arm. And considering I’m going that far with it I went and ordered that rpm steering flip kit this way I know what I have under there and will have new rod ends etc. (I really only want to do this work once full time college student with a crammed summer schedule. I don’t have time to do the work test and find out tie rods are an issue then tear it all back apart again etc.) so it is waiting on parts time. The dealership said they’d install it all for me or they will write me a check for $200 for me to do it lol I’ll probably take the $200 and call it good.
 

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If you ordered a complete new draglink flip kit it should come with the trackbar bracket as part of the kit. Your track bar and draglink should be parallel like this.





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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
If you ordered a complete new draglink flip kit it should come with the trackbar bracket as part of the kit.


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The rpm kit I don’t believe comes with one. It specifically mentions needing one. If it by chance does come with one I’ll just sell whatever one I don’t like
 
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