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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I'm starting a new thread since my build is... going slow. I'm not sure when i'll ever finish mine because it costs so much money so I decided to give you all some more content.

I am doing a light resto on a CJ7 at the shop. Swapping out the tub for a new aftermarket one and repainting everything black. A whole bunch of stuff is getting replaced and modified. This Jeep is moving much faster than mine so hopefully you all will enjoy this build.

I'll update you all on everything later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So about 2 months ago i started this build. The goal is simple, replace the tub, repaint everything black, and have a mechanically sound vehicle.

I have never seen a car so rotten. It was so bad. This is why i "HATE" rhino liner. It is never applied properly, moisture always gets under it, and you never know your Jeep is rotten until its too late.

When we pulled the tub off the frame it almkst bent in half. The only thing keeping it together was the rhino liner itself.


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When you are doing a restoration like this it is incredibly important that you catalog "EVERYTHING!" Although i know CJs inside and out i still place nuts and bolts in plastic bags, label them, then put them in a box.

You will forget what they go to i can guarantee it. So i spend 2 days removing everything from the Jeep. Cataloging it and putting it on a self.

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Discussion Starter #4
Fitting the new tub on the body and drilling all the holes for the fender flares.

One thing i forgot to mention is that everything on the frame is in perfect condition. The frame looks like it sat in a desert, it is mint.

We are going to replace all lines and remove most of the emissions stuff. Its an antique now and will just cause headaches if there is a vacuum leak somewhere. Its just not needed.




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Here i am modifying the new metal glovebox. The old one was made from felt and i hated it. So i took the liberty to modify it to fit in the Jeep. This one was 8 inches deep and i had to cut it all apart and take 3 inches out of it.

Ill take some photos so you can see the process.

The reason i did this is because it had to fit under the dash with the factory heater core. So i had to carefully measure to fit it as tight as possible to give the customer the deepest glove box.

I had to cut off mounts, weld on hardware for mounting. It was a long process. I think it took me a day amd a half. But more on it later


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Here i am doing starting all the body work. The jeep came primed but i ran a DA sander all over the body with 80 grit to rough it up to get good adhesion with body filler.

I want everyone to know the body filler is not bad when used properly. This body came all Fk'd up. I did my best to hammer it straight with a hammer and dolly but you need body filler to make it "PERFECT." The customer wants this black so it has to be as straight as an arrow.

There will be about a 1/16 of filler on this Jeep all the way around. Other parts may have as thick as 1/8" but the metal is worked over to try to use as little as possible.

One thing you need to understand is that most factory or aftermarket replacement panels are no where near "straight" or rarely do they "ever" fit. I'm serious, its bad with older car. Mostly because the dyes that were used to create the panels have been destroyed or re-tooled over the years.

I had to drill ever single hole in this Jeep to mount everything. So after we placed the tub on the frame I had to install everything on the Jeep then remove it for body work. If you want it to look factory or better than factory it takes a lot of work.



Anyway this is mostly where I am at right now at the shop. I keep getting pulled to work on other jobs right now as we are absolutely swamped with work. we have over 60 cars and they dont stop coming. Its fk'in nuts. We get 1 done and 2 more come through the doors.

I'll try to be as in depth with this as I can because its moving pretty quick. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. If not, follow along. This Jeep is going to look really good when its painted. Its not getting lifted, we are just restoring it to make it a nice smooth driver.

Since im in charge of this i'm going do my best to make this a very tasteful resto






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Discussion Starter #7
Here i am marking all the high and low spots on the body. You can see in the second and third photos that the body isnt straight vertically, however it is straight horizontally. It takes awhile to make this right and requires a lot of careful sanding. However it can be done.

I use a 1 foot machinists rules for this because i know its straight. I constantly check and re-check during this step. I am also not adding body filler to make the panel straight. Im removing it because less is better obviously.


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Discussion Starter #8
Body is in its first coat of primer. Its going to get more later.

I also started fixing the hood.


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Was this one of them Omix-ada bodies?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Was this one of them Omix-ada bodies?
Yes I believe it was, I think someone looking to make this swap would be better off buying a high quality body from Aqualu (see https://www.hardbody4x4.com/) Basically buying a high quality body is going to cost you more money upfront. But you will easily save money because less bodywork will have to be done. And if you want... you can just leave the tub bare because it is aluminum.

Just my thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ugh... Been neglecting this thread. Im bad at posting uodates. Jeep is in final assembly.


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