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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been reading some older threads about YJ break systems and it seems they do have some issues. Not saying they don't stop but with larger tires (33) and older technology they just don't preform as well.

Here's my problems. My Jeep set idle for two months while I recovered from left hip replacement. When I got back into it the breaks didn't feel strong. Yes they would stop but the peddle seem to move further before stopping but still hard.

1. Went into the breaks front pads looked good rotors in good condition.
2. Rear shoes in good conditions with drums well in tolerance. BUT it seemed the right rear break system had a light coat of rust on it and the shoes. (That's after driving it.)
3. Lightly turned the rear drums
4. No signs of hydraulic leaks.
5. Reassembled, adjusted rear breaks, bleed hydraulic system all four wheels and test drove.
6. Brakes still don't feel right. Peddle goes down to far in my opinion.

Anyone have any suggestions about helping the Jeeps whoa? If the proportional valve starts to go bad what is it symptoms?

Thanks,




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It sounds like your BRAKE system has rusted out. BRAKE fluid absorbs water over time. After sitting it can rust pit the brake cylinders, master, disk and drum. It sounds like you have a failure to maintain pressure in the rear system.

I suggest a new master cylinder is in order along with a full purge of the old fluid.

Good luck, keep us posted. BTW it's a pedal not a peddle, I digress, sorry
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info and spelling correction. To the best of my knowledge the brake system has been kept under pressure. If not air would have been in the system when we bleed all four today. We did get old dirty fluid.

It was working just fine 1 st of June, for the past two & one half years has not been in any deep water, just rain water on the road.

Complete hydraulic fluids has been replaced and purged throughout the system front to back.

Not ruling out the master cylinder but has no tell tell signs of leakage or pedal going down without holding pressure.

Like I tried to explain the breaks work, lock the wheels but just don't feel like they did two months ago?????


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In my experience, when you have an overly deep pedal, and there are no leaks or worn/broken components, it usuallly the master cylinder. I'd replace that. Makes sure to inspect your two front and one rear rubber flex hoses for age related deterioration just because.

You may want to look into the dual diaphragm brake booster upgrade before you start buying parts, though. See if thats something you may want to pursue.
 

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in my experience, when you have an overly deep pedal, and there are no leaks or worn/broken components, it's usually the master cylinder
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Do that swap to the dual diaphragm! I had a fading pedal and no bad leakage but around where the master connects to the booster. All is better than before now and still haven't finished bleeding the brakes stopping power is great still IMG_0767.jpg


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys for all your input about the master cylinder, brake booster, a old brake lines. I will address them later on today. Again thanks a lot.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pulled master cylinder off today and found leakage going into the booster. Cleaned up booster, and ordered new M/C. It came in this afternoon but couldn't get it installed until tomorrow. Will post the results later. Thanks again, great group to be apart off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Installed master cylinder yesterday and bled hydraulic system and took her for a test drive. Wow best brakes that ole 87 has ever had. Brake pedal is much more responsive and doubled space from floorboard.

Thanks again group for all the input and as usual y'all hit the nail on the head.


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My brakes suck. Have since I got it. Replaced all line, master, and everything else. Glad you got your fixed.
 
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