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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Did a brake flush. first i sucked all the fluid out of the reservoir. Nasty sh*t at the bottom.


Ran EPR through the engine for 30 minutes and then did an induction service with BG stuff. Oil came back out black.



took for its first drive after that. It runs pretty well. Transmission feels a little loose. still need to do the service to that though. TIRES ARE HORRIBLE. ordered for khumo ATs today. will be here Monday.

The engine is doing a new thing now. At start up its reving immediately to 2k RPM and then comes back down. I am going to replace the idle control valve and see if that fixes it.
 

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I like to use 50th gear.
50th gear! Wow, my Jeep must be a racecar!!!

Anyway this Jeep is going to be really cool in a couple of weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Replaced the EGR valve and the rev up at start up was fixed by the idle control motor. EGR valve was really clogged. Got the seats going in now. Got the old ones out. Painted the frames. Floor pans look good. Figured I'd put a coat of paint one while I have the carpet pulled up. Unfortunately. A bolt broke coming out. Had to drop it out. Will finish tomorrow. Decided to paint the hinges on the hood too.








 

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Thanks for the inspiration. I've got a 95 that I picked up in October that had some major issues, but I'm slowly getting it back. I actually moved it recently which is something that I was unable to do when I got it because the rear-end was frozen solid. thanks again...great work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
new tires are on. looks good. took it for a short drive. very smooth now.


unfortunaley, the 30 year old drag link did not want to adjust, even with torch and hammer and eventually split. so have a new one coming today.
 

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You know the trick for those? Hit where the taper is. Pickle fork is also good when they're trashed anyway, and being replaced.
 

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At this rate, you'll have a new jeep in no time lol. Looking great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
so I have been driving it around quite a bit now and in general it is driving great. The 4 cylinder is pretty weak to be honest, but I knew thats what i was getting into. Im sure that part of that is a 188k on a motor.

I have two issue right now that are next on the fix list. 1) left blinker is not working. nothing at all. was working, but since stopped. any common fixes? 2) Idle after driving is sometimes up at 1100 rpm. I havent replaced the throttle position sensor an am wondering if thats causing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Replaced the radio with a bluetooth one. Pretty straightforward wiring.

found some disconnected pieces will have to figure out what they go to. This vehicle doesn't have AC, so may thats it.

ordered LED bulbs for the cluster. Really made it look great.

got the second seat put in after painting the frame.
 

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so I have been driving it around quite a bit now and in general it is driving great. The 4 cylinder is pretty weak to be honest, but I knew thats what i was getting into. Im sure that part of that is a 188k on a motor.

I have two issue right now that are next on the fix list. 1) left blinker is not working. nothing at all. was working, but since stopped. any common fixes? 2) Idle after driving is sometimes up at 1100 rpm. I havent replaced the throttle position sensor an am wondering if thats causing it.
For your blinker, is the blinker fluid full? ha ha. But seriously, these jeep switches are bad about getting dirty, corroded contacts. If you can, you might be able to pull apart the switch and clean it up with some contact cleaner and a brush. I like to put dielectric grease on them once I clean them to prevent moisture from getting in there. Doesn't help prevent dust buildup though...

The idle could be the TPS, but it could also be an intermittent vacuum leak. I would check the hoses for cracking or dry rot first. If it is a valve or something of that sort, it might be a challenge to figure it out. A vacuum gauge hooked up where you can see it while driving might help determine the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
For your blinker, is the blinker fluid full? ha ha. But seriously, these jeep switches are bad about getting dirty, corroded contacts. If you can, you might be able to pull apart the switch and clean it up with some contact cleaner and a brush. I like to put dielectric grease on them once I clean them to prevent moisture from getting in there. Doesn't help prevent dust buildup though...

The idle could be the TPS, but it could also be an intermittent vacuum leak. I would check the hoses for cracking or dry rot first. If it is a valve or something of that sort, it might be a challenge to figure it out. A vacuum gauge hooked up where you can see it while driving might help determine the issue.
ill buy a TPS next and see what that does. I have replaced a lot of vacuum lines but there are other lines coming off of the canister that are not in the best shape but don't have any holes or cracks that I can see. To be honest im hating this vacuum system. They run behind and under everything. There is a red line not attached to anything which I think is for the front axle. I havent tested 4 wheel drive yet because of this. Problem is, I see no where where it line should go. Every line as a beginning and an end. except for a line I have still yet to run off the gas tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
ill buy a TPS next and see what that does. I have replaced a lot of vacuum lines but there are other lines coming off of the canister that are not in the best shape but don't have any holes or cracks that I can see. To be honest im hating this vacuum system. They run behind and under everything. There is a red line not attached to anything which I think is for the front axle. I havent tested 4 wheel drive yet because of this. Problem is, I see no where where it line should go. Every line as a beginning and an end. except for a line I have still yet to run off the gas tank.
think i may just buy this and go fresh for the whole 4wd vacuum system.

https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-530011...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G4Y5N8VCFX2EW3NV6WV3
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
How hard where the led light to change? Looks good!

Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk
They were very easy, but my circuit board for my gauges is messed up. Someones been in there before and its poorly jerry rigged. some of it fell apart. I am going to be ordering a replace circuit sheet. Theres a couple places that sell them. Unfortunately they $90. The speedo and the tach are a little different and took a while for me to figure out that they slights are snapped in and just take some force to pull straight out. They have sort of a handle so i assumed they turned. I bought them from amazon. They worked well. I also changed out all the small peanut bulbs in the message center with blue LED. I think they look cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
So last night I got motivated again to hang some parts. My wife had me install a new door. so my garage was take for a while with wood working stuff. But anyways, got rear tail lights installed. New ones from Quadratec. Was impressed with the quality for the price. $25 each. Also surprising was again, almost no corrosion behind the tail light. The Tire stop was rusted so I took that off and just painted it. Turned out well.




Im still trying to figure out this vacuum system as well. I got the lines hooked up how I thought they were supposed to go. Took the vehicle out and the 4wd light was on even though the selector was in 2wd. So not exactly sure.

Im thinking that this junction should go somewhere else. should a vacuum leaking for the 4wd system effect the idle of the motor?

I also had intention of putting new shocks in as well as the steering shock last night, but the 3 hours spend on the steering shock made sure that didnt happen. sweet baby jesus that thank was jammed in there. I had to run out and get a pitman puller. I thought for sure I was doing something wrong. Im fairly certain that was the original shock. Eventually got it out, but damn. That was a pain. I dont see any way of doing it without that puller. You also have to disconnect the track arm to do it.


 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Been a while since an update. Kinda stopped working on it and started driving it more. Running well so far.

Round house shocks are in. sway bar end links. I finished sanding/priming/painting the rear tail gate hinges. New tail pipe and muffler and a modification to the thing between the header and the muffler of which we do not speak.


I had my second real kick myself in the nuts moment while working on this thing. First was when i over-torqued a valve cover bolt and broke it. It supposed to be 44 inch pounds in case anyone else finds this post. Second was I finally sprung to get a new $90 circuit board for the instrument cluster quadratec and I decided it didn't matter if I disconnected the battery since the ignition was off. Well thats when I determined I was a dumb a$$. Clock always has constant power..... burnt that sucker up quick. Red flash, burning smell and $90 gone. sucks......
What really made me feel stupid in retrospect was the circuit I was replacing had the exact same
failure. previous owner had done the same thing.
Heres the one I took out. same failure on the new one now.



luckily it was only the clock. But I had hoped that the circuit would fix a non working temp gauge and an erratic fuel gauge. I have a new sending unit in the tank so I dont think its that. Either wiring problem or gauge problem. I need to find the coolant temp sensor and replace that and see if thats the issue for coolant temp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Spent some time working on the rims. Started with a 200 grit (very lightly) went to 400, 1000 and then 1500. Then used a polishing drill and a alluminum polish. This was about 2 hours of work.
BEFORE

AFTER
 
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