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Hey everyone, I know this is the reverse of what most people have issues with but the other day I was moving my '89 YJ and when I turned it off and removed the key it just kept running. I replaced the ignition switch and tested the two relays near the battery

My next step is to pull a used column from an XJ at the junk yard. Anyone have any other thoughts? Greatly appreciate anything you guys might have!
 

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Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
 

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Was it running normally or what is referred to as dieseling. The latter in a noisy rattling sound vs the normal smooth running. Dieseling is caused by a build up of carbon in the cylinders which will start to glow. Then when the ignition turns off, the glowing carbon will continue to ignite the fuel air mixture for a while.

While interesting, it can harm the engine.

If it is the ignition switch, a new (or recycled) steering column is not the answer.

I was once able to pull my key out of my TJ lock cylinder because of the wear without turning the ignition off. Is it possible you did this?
 

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We need more information.
What year is your YJ?
What engine/trans combo?
How long have you had it?
You state you were moving it. Do you drive it regularly or is it a work in progress.
Have you recently installed a HEI distributor?

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Was it running normally or what is referred to as dieseling. The latter in a noisy rattling sound vs the normal smooth running. Dieseling is caused by a build up of carbon in the cylinders which will start to glow. Then when the ignition turns off, the glowing carbon will continue to ignite the fuel air mixture for a while.

While interesting, it can harm the engine.

If it is the ignition switch, a new (or recycled) steering column is not the answer.

I was once able to pull my key out of my TJ lock cylinder because of the wear without turning the ignition off. Is it possible you did this?

Seems to be running normal, I turn the key to off and all the instruments, blower motor etc stop running but the engine continues.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
We need more information.
What year is your YJ?
What engine/trans combo?
How long have you had it?
You state you were moving it. Do you drive it regularly or is it a work in progress.
Have you recently installed a HEI distributor?

Good Luck, L.M.

1989 YJ 2.5 5 spd manual. I just got it a few weeks ago and have done nothing to it. I've driven it around the neighborhood but had to wait for plates and registration and right as I got those this started happening.
 

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Once you got it stopped, did you leave it over night and see if the battery drained?

Did you try to start it again, and did it start ok?

Did you look under the hood to see if there were any extraneous wires that someone has added?

Obviously, the Jeep won't run without power to the coil, for there has to be spark. In that era Jeep, IIRC that's basically all the ignition switch did - turn on power to the coil and the instruments.
 

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Once you got it stopped, did you leave it over night and see if the battery drained?

Did you try to start it again, and did it start ok?

Did you look under the hood to see if there were any extraneous wires that someone has added?

Obviously, the Jeep won't run without power to the coil, for there has to be spark. In that era Jeep, IIRC that's basically all the ignition switch did - turn on power to the coil and the instruments.

I did start it up right away after the first time of it continuing to run and have done so several times since then as I've moved it around to work on it, etc. I did find that the battery drained the first night after I left it so I assume it's something in the key cylinder, ignition switch or ignition wiring. Since I've swapped the cylinder already the switch is the next stop, doing that tomorrow so we'll see what happens.
 

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Replacing the switch should do it. The cylinder just allows you to activate the switch.

The fact that it drained the battery also points in that direction. It was as if you had turned the key on and walked away.
 

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OP's Jeep is a 2.5 with fuel injection. Wouldn't the FI system need input from the computer to keep running? He states that when he turns the key to the "off" position that the instruments and the blower shut off but the engine keeps running. If changing the switch doesn't cure the issue, then I'd look for some extra wires as rgreen65 suggests.

How do you shut it off when it continues to run?

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Foot on the brake pop the clutch which stalls it. But, doesn't kill the power feed so it runs the battery down.
 

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Foot on the brake pop the clutch which stalls it. But, doesn't kill the power feed so it runs the battery down.
Yep, that's the standard way of shutting the engine off if it wants to continue running with the key off. I was wondering what 2tornadoes does. Is there anything electrical that he does like disconnecting the battery or anything else.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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I bought my 2001 TJ 4 years ago. It is the 4.0 with 5 speed. After a little work on tightening up suspension and maintenance I took it to Moab from Oregon. Drove it there and it was great. 3rd day of wheeling we stopped for something and I found the key would not shut off the Jeep. On the trial we looked at the obvious and could not figure out why. For the rest of the week I just stalled it to shut it off and at the end of each day I disconnected the battery.
When I got home I started a project to clean up wiring such as lights that did not use a relay and just plain messy stuff added and/or removed. The Jeep also had an alarm system. I removed the alarm system and it still had the same issue. I then started checking wiring and fuses and stock relays in the under hood fuse box. I found a relay that did not work and 3 different blown fuses. I never did find the culprit, but after all was done it the problem was gone and 3 1/2 years later it has never returned.
Check for any blown fuses and relays and an add on alarm.
I wish you luck.
 

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Sometimes the diode in the alternator goes bad and keeps the coil etc energized. To check, unplug the alternator and start it up let it run a bit then see if it shuts of correctly.
Some alternators don't have an internal diode, instead it will be in a small block on a wire between the alternator and ignition. Most often it will have a diode symbol embossed on it.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Hey everyone, I know this is the reverse of what most people have issues with but the other day I was moving my '89 YJ and when I turned it off and removed the key it just kept running. I replaced the ignition switch and tested the two relays near the battery

My next step is to pull a used column from an XJ at the junk yard. Anyone have any other thoughts? Greatly appreciate anything you guys might have!
You need power to the engine control computer in order to run the on-track fuel pump, so the problem is definitely electrical. Either the ignition switch or maybe a stuck relay has to be the issue.
 

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You need power to the engine control computer in order to run the on-track fuel pump, so the problem is definitely electrical. Either the ignition switch or maybe a stuck relay has to be the issue.
In-tank fuel pump, that is (stupid autocorrect)
 

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Typically the wire that the diode is on is fed directly from the 'run' position on the ignition switch. If the diode fails, it back feeds power to the ignition switch so anything else that is connected to the run terminal will continue to operate.
Things connected to the accessory terminal (radio etc) will normally not operate because that terminal is not connected to power in the off position
 
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