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Discussion Starter #1
Well it’s finally happening. My Jeep is finally getting work started on it.

A little backstory

Early spring 2018 I was perusing craigslist like I normally do, looking for hidden gems when I stumble upon an old wrangler for a grand about 5 minutes away from where I live and work. Immediately email the guy to come and see it the next day. Next day comes and I get right down to the nitty gritty Inspecting every inch of the Jeep. The story was he bought it for his wife to play around in, ended up getting a new jku and this gem sat since. Told me it was a 4 cylinder, had a decent engine tick, came with a tow bar, hard and bikini top, and the crappy center console he had. Only rust on the body is a little on the fenders some on windshield frame and where the driver seatbelt hooks onto the floor. Rust on the frame (cause it is a Jeep from Ohio) was on the rear driver spring shackle mount and the steering gearbox mount, the rest is solid. I’ve basically made up my mind up at this point and tell him to meet me at the bmv in half an hour.

Fast forward a few hours and I’m the proud new owner of a 1990 Jeep Wrangler. Skip a few days and I come to the realization that it’s not a 4 banger but a 4.2 i6, which needless to say was awesome and changed the entire plans I had for the Jeep.

Skip ahead two years and two moves later I finally have a place I can call home and more importantly, a place to work on my projects. Go to move it one day and the tranny hard shifts into neutral and won’t go into any gear. F$$k. So it stays in its spot until I have time to get to it. About a week ago I go out for poops and giggles and it shifts into gear. Hallelujah! I pull it to the back garage where it now resides waiting to start the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Current plans are to freshen up the 4.0 and swap it, hook up a new carb and hei, do the external slave swap, some suspension work and then (hopefully) have some fun!:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The way she looks right now with some of the parts I just set on the hood. The new engine sitting in front waiting to get degreased. Her names Br1 (pronounced Brie, also an acronym for big red 1).

BA06D873-1ECE-46BE-AF13-9CC0E000881D.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So far the parts list is coming along slowly but surely:
Engine ✓
Gaskets ✓
Degreaser ✓
Alternator bracket
Oil change and tune up
Power steering pump and lines
Belts
Vacuum lines
Hei dizzy✓
Mc-2150 carb and adapters
Pilot bearing

Bellhousing ✓
Clutch fork ✓
Throw out bearing ✓
Slave spring ✓
Fluid change ✓
Bearing retainer✓
Clutch ball stud✓
Slave/master kit✓
Clutch kit✓

Fuel tank rebuild( run new lines and the like)
Head and taillight upgrade
Summer tires ✓
Windshield and frame
Uniden 520xl + whip antenna
Optima red top
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well with the weather these past few days I haven’t been able to get much done to the Jeep, but I did brush the 4.0 to get some of the grime off in preparation for the degreaser. Probably also gonna send the head off to get cleaned and some machine work done, a lot of oil deposits after removing the valve cover. Also got her up in the air to start dropping the tranny and t-case for the slave swap. Can’t wait for warmer weather, doing car work in the cold SUCKS.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well today was a rather dreary day with the rain, but I was able to get some suspension work done. Got three of the four new shocks on. The passenger side rear is giving me hell though. The bottom metal sleeve seized to the bolt and it won’t come out, gonna try and beat on it again tomorrow and if it doesn’t work I’ll just cut it off and buy new ones cause the front bolt is bad too. Still have some stuff I need to get from harbor freight too so we’ll see if anything is open still or if I have to order even more stuff. The order list keeps getting bigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is what happens when you don’t replace your shocks after many Ohio winters. The rears are even worse than that one too, I could see the piston the covers rusted so badly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Well today I got the exhaust and front driveshaft off in preparation to drop the tranny. Also got the shifter boot off and two of the four shifter tower bolts out, man those are a pain in the a$$ with big hands. Also degreased the engine a bit, might try and do it again it’s still a little grimy. Ran out of daylight cause I had to fix a puncture on my work car and found out my wheel studs are stripped to hell. :mad:Gonna have to get that handled sooner rather than later. Oh the troubles of having multiple cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update time:

good news is I got the last shock on and the grille and rear driveshaft off with relative ease. Bad news is I started taking the new engine apart and found it had been sitting a lot longer than I originally thought. All the water passages are clogged and caked with crystallized coolant. Probably going to have to at least send it in to get hot tanked and looked over. Also took some pics of the rust on the frame for reference. Slowly but surely it’s going to get done.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Overall the frame is not too bad, definitely not the worst I’ve seen and worth repairing. The body mounts on the other hand will need to be replaced too.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
For a rust belt Jeep, it isn't bad at all. It is funny that people in other parts of the country would consider that absolute garbage.
I know right, before I bought it I did a lot of research on various styles of Jeeps and thought for the price it was a steal. Even after I got it I looked at a tj with lower miles cause my mom wants a Jeep too and the entire skid plate on both sides were falling apart, and he wanted $2500! I even checked around my frame with a screwdriver and although it’s scaly, it is solid except for those spots.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I’ve got a few questions for anybody that has more knowledge than me. I’m going to be (slowly) ordering a ton of parts soon to start the swap and need some advice on the fuel system. As we all probably know the fuel delivery systems are different between the 4.0 and 4.2 being electric and mechanical respectively, as I’m going to the 4.0 but staying carbed I’m going to need a new fuel pump(as the 4.0 doesn’t have provisions for a mech fuel pump on the block). I’m going to be running the mc2150 so I’ve got some options.

1. get an external electric fuel pump and regulator and mount it somewhere near the tank or,

2. get an in tank pump from an efi yj and just run a regulator

or maybe some other setup that I’m not thinking of. If I run the external I was thinking of getting something like the Holley blue with the regulator or a similar pump from a different brand. If anyone has any insight let me know, I’d be grateful. I’m already gonna have a hard time with the wiring side of this project and don’t need anymore complications.:cautious:
 

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If you go with the in tank pump, it'll be out of harms way (unless you find a particularly mean rock to cave in your tank). A frame mounted pump will be subject to weather and road splash, but will be easier to access.
If you go with the in tank fuel pump/sending unit, get the 20 gallon pump and do the 20 gallon mod while the tank is down. That's assuming you have a 15 gallon fuel capacity at the moment.

Good luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Luckymac, I’m gonna need it. I do still need to drop my current tank to see which size I have. I just ordered most of the parts for the slave swap and a hei distributor, just have to get the new carb, 4.0 off to a shop, and the fuel system ironed out so I can start putting her back together. I keep seeing all these low gas prices and it makes me wanna drive around in my Jeep but I can’t.:cry: I know once I’m done and get her running gas will go back up too, it’s just my luck. This may be a dumb question but are all of the poly tanks 20 gals? I’ve read about the mod for the tank if you didn’t get the option from the dealer but if I happen to luck out and have a poly I’d be relieved (1 less headache to worry about). Also when I eventually swap my axles to 4.10s and 31” tires, I will need a 37 tooth speedo gear correct? I’ve checked multiple charts and they all seem a bit different to each other.

Also I’m now a supporting member:cool:. I figured with the depth of invaluable knowledge this site has provided me I’d throw in my 2000 pennies.
 

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As strange as it may seem, all poly tanks are 20 gallon. Jeep charged extra for the 20 gallon option when these heaps were new. The only difference between the 20 gallon capacity and the 15 gallon capacity is the length of the vent tube. The 15 gallon vent tube is longer and sticks farther into the tank, thus causing an air bubble at the top of the tank and no more gas can fit in.
All the 20 gallon mod consists of is cutting the plastic vent tube to just stick into the tank a whisker, It can be done even with the tank in the vehicle, but it's somewhat easier with the tank on the ground (like when you're installing a fuel pump/sending unit.
Be sure to check all the vents, vent hoses, seals and gaskets while the tank is on the ground.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Will do L.M. One of the first things I noticed when I got her was after sitting for a day or longer the fuel would drain from the lines and would take forever to crank and build pressure. Probably one of the first things I put on the list of things to fix. I’ll see in the next week if I can find time to go out and do some more work on her. Still have to drop the tranny/t-case, gas tank, pull the old engine, mess with the wiring, pull the trac bar... man this list is still long. Not to mention the stuff I still have to do on my work vehicles. It seems even when I have more time on my hands I have more projects creep up on me.
 

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Will do L.M. One of the first things I noticed when I got her was after sitting for a day or longer the fuel would drain from the lines and would take forever to crank and build pressure. Probably one of the first things I put on the list of things to fix.
That seems to be a common complaint with the Carter BBD or perhaps the YJ fuel system itself. The electric fuel pump should fix that. Simply turn the key to "on" and wait a moment. The electric pump should fill the lines and then the Jeep should start with the first crank.

A few years ago we thought we had it figured out with a one way valve to the overflow line, but mine still requires several cranking revolutions to start after sitting for a couple days. Once it fires, it idles well and accelerates nicely. If I start it every day, it starts right up on the first crank. I have other "Lucky Doos" on the Jeep that have higher priorities than the long crank issue. I Expect I'll get to it after the DD brake booster and external slave mod.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Small update today, the first wave of parts has arrived. Got the clutch kit, slave and master kit both Luk brand from rock-auto: $263 dollars to my door. Also got a bearing retainer off eBay for $90. Just waiting for the mt90 fluid to get here and I’ll be ready for that swap... hopefully. I still have to call around tomorrow to see if I can send the 4.0 in to get refreshed.
On a side note, I’ve read that even when doing the external slave swap to get a throw out bearing made of metal instead of plastic, as the plastic obviously isn’t as strong as the metal. The clutch kit I got was a Luk Rep-set heavy duty for $130 off rock-auto that came with clutch, backing plate, and a metal throw out bearing for anyone interested.
On another side note, what’s up with the weather lately. One day it’s mid 60s, the next it’s freezing and high thirties. As of this writing it’s currently snowing... in the middle of April... wth. At least I know my prediction of six more weeks of winter was spot on.:rolleyes:
 
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