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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings from a small mediterranean country - Montenegro.

I have 1995. Wrangler with 4.0 engine and 32rh auto transmission. I have it since 2012. After going thru hassle with all sorts of issues, shops etc. I have finally decided to do a complete rebuild on my own. Jeep was not a rust bucket, nor the engine was that bad (except it had slight piston slap when cold), so it wasn't that much effort as it could have been. I took me near 7 months to finish everything by myself, except body paint job ( which was done at the shop)

First I started tearing down everything

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Looks good so far. Let’s see more
 

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Here are a couple of photos of frame restoration. I removed most of the rust with wire wheel brush.. For some deep rust which I couldn't completely treat with wheel brush, I used rust converter.

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Prepared for painting, dark blue/black color over frame is rust converter:

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After coating with 2k washprimer:

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Next day I applied one coat of 2k polyurethane paint - semi gloss

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Discussion Starter #5
This is frame after paint job:

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Next - front and rear leaf springs and differentials - coated with epoxy primer and later with polyurethane paint just like frame. Old paint and rust were completely stripped off from everything, it took me a lot of time to finish that. I could have saved a lot of time by sandblasting everything instead of using a wire brush. However, the sandblasting shop was far away from me and also they gave me an abnormal quote for undercarriage

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That's a work of beauty.
Please keep posting. I'd love to see the final product.

Good luck, L.M.
 

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Thank you guys!

Here are some more pictures:

Leaf springs, frame and axles ready:
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Got engine from machine shop - 0.01" on both crankshaft and pistons
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Everything except transmission and engine mounts is polyurethane. These are from energy suspensions:
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Frame is ready! 2.5" inch suspension lift with Skyjackers h7000. To be honest, this is harshest ride I've ever experienced
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Engine block is back onto the frame.
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The 2.5" lift shouldn't cause that harsh of a ride. A common issue that leads to a harsh ride is over tightening the shackle bolts. The torque value in the typical instructions is way too tight and does not allow the suspension to move as it should. I believe the general consensus is to torque to 45 ft/lbs. I'm not sure what that relates to your metric values. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The 2.5" lift shouldn't cause that harsh of a ride. A common issue that leads to a harsh ride is over tightening the shackle bolts. The torque value in the typical instructions is way too tight and does not allow the suspension to move as it should. I believe the general consensus is to torque to 45 ft/lbs. I'm not sure what that relates to your metric values. :)
Thank you, this was (combined with track bar removal) first thing I had tried, however no difference at all :)

Here are some more photos of piston and head gasket installation, transmission band adjustment, filter replacement and cleanup. Last photo is with all those things mounted on frame

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Very nice! I've rebuilt engines in between their frame rails and know the difficulty of moving over and under to install pistons and such. Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys! Here are some more pictures with engine, trans and transfer case mounted on frame:

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I used electrolysis to remove brake dust, grease and rust from brake calipers:

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