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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my first Jeep. It is a 95 4.0 5sp with 141k. It runs and drives great but has a good bit of rust to fix. So far I have ordered a new smittybilt top, cut out the driver floor pan, tacked in some sheet metal I had lying around (temporary fix), and replaced the clutch master cylinder. I have autorust.com safe-t-caps for the driver tranny skid and driver forward rear leaf mount. The passenger skid mount will get some light repair and the rear frame sections have a little life left in them. The body will get some new sheet metal and diamond plate rocker covers to hide my poor welding. I will have a friend do the welding on the frame. Here is my starting point.









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I also already replaced the rear brakes and wheel cylinders. I had to temp in a too long brake line on the right side. I will be remaking the rear lines when I order my lift kit. Here are some rust pics for your viewing pleasure.















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I also removed the carpet, added my little kicker 8 sub behind the rear seat, and eliminated the Wrangler hood stickers.





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I built a couple ammo can boxes and used magnets to stick them to the fender wells. I want to easily be able to remove the sub/amp/speakers when I know I will be getting wet.



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Nice work on the ammo/speaker cans. But being removable, how are they wired up?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. I am going to clean up and loom the wiring. I should be able to disconnect at the fuse and ground, pull the wires form the 6x9s, and remove sub/amp with all wires still connected.







 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got my new Smittybilt replacement top on last night. The old one had a couple torn zippers and a zip tied passenger window. I had a bad experience with 4wd.com. They sent a TJ top in place of my ordered top. They also would not help me out with expedited shipping and opted to give me a refund rather than pay for 2 day shipping. I went to morris4x4 and couldn't be happier. They are 2 day ground from me and their customer service was great. I also cut the metal zippers and put on some Paracord pulls. They are much easier on the fingers and look sweet, too.






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Discussion Starter #9
Homemade bumper. All materials were free leftovers from around my work. It was a c channel that I welded together. I have a couple d rings that I may weld on, still on the fence. I still need to cut and weld in the end caps. This was also my first time doing stick welding. I did a good bit of practice first.











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Discussion Starter #10
Started the first of 4 frame sections to repair. Also doing 1 in body mounts to replace the trashed OEM mounts. Lots of stuck bolts.

Frame before demo.


Previous owner did some self repairs.


I assume this brace was trying to keep the shackle from twisting. The weld was busted loose on the body.



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The rear body mount bolt was completely rusted out and pulled straight out. The next one was seized in the nut. This one had a flat piece of metal as the nut. It was thrashing back and forth on the impact. You can see it trying to bust out.


I had to cut out the body and cut this piece of metal.


The forward shackle bolt was seized in the bushing. I had to cut the shackle and press it out.


Finally ready to start cutting.


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Discussion Starter #12
Cutting wasn't too bad except the PO's repair kept me from slipping the safe t cap over the frame there. We had to put a plate there at least till I get time to do the transmission section. Hopefully between tonight and TMRW afternoon I can get the body mounts done and the rest put back together. That or ride the motorcycle on Monday.











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Finally got it done (enough). The body mounts made the frame repair a walk in the park. The two rear mounts will be moved inward when I do the rear frame repair. I also had to cut a small piece from the inner shifter boot. It has hard to get in second after the body lift. Smooth as butter now.





This mount was also gone. I had to weld in a plate and cut out the hole.


I had to trim this trim piece that holds the wire loom.


The aftermath.




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I replaced the radiator. It was a huge hassle because the first one I got leaked. It was from Advance Auto. They were great on the exchange but it still sucked. All the bolts use a clip nut and they were all siezed and broken. I managed to get them all out without the angle grinder. You can get to all of them by taking out the headlights and turn signals. I really need to invest in stock for PB Blaster and anti seize.

The radiator was not leaking but was rotten. I have never seen one this bad.




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Discussion Starter #15
I forgot to put these up.

I got end caps cut and welded on my homemade shop scraps bumper.





I also mounted an old versa-carry on my console for the trusty PX4 to have a front row seat.



Seat all the way back.


Where I like it.


Covered the screw heads to make sure I don't get scratches. It doesn't hit them but you might be able to get into them if you aren't paying attention.


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Tonight I replaced the belt and valve cover gasket. The belt was no problem. The valve cover was not too bad. The only headache was the coolant hose had to be removed to clear the valve cover.





Just out of the bath.


The new gasket was surprisingly well made. Especially compared to the old one.


This is the stupid hose.


Almost done.




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Nice rust, err I mean Jeep... You've definitely got your work cut out for you. My Jeep is the same teal color, I've been told that it is a rare one.

Those ammo can speakers are awesome, I may make some too. Those front only speakers just don't cut it when cruising at highway speeds...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah. I have named it Rusty. I rewired the headlights with new relays and 12ga wiring. A little brighter and ready for a future headlamp upgrade. I also ordered a 5 channel amp and some Polk audio 4x6 plates for up front. I am going to mount the amp under the driver seat and build a shroud to keep it dry. Coming soon is RT greaseable shackles, rear frame repair and gas tank skid plate.

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Discussion Starter #20
I managed to get the speakers in the dash without dropping the windshield and pulling the whole dash. I did cheat and cut the top outer stud on both speakers. This made it possible and much easier to put the new ones back in. They are nice and tight even with only 3 bolts. I have just mocked up a wood "shelf" under the driver seat and will be making a steel rack for it once I do my seat swap.





A couple shots of the headlight relay and new wiring. I need a couple spade connectors to eliminate those pesky wire nuts.








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