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I have a 2004 wrangler with a 2.4L engine. I need to replace my valve cover gasket. The manual says that the intake manifold has an upper and lower part and to take the upper part off, so the valve cover can be taken off. Has anyone ever done this? I have everything loose, but it doesn't want to come a part.
 

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No takers so far so I’ll give it a shot. I don’t have a 2.4 & only somewhat familiar with them so could be wrong…

I have the FSM & cannot find the reference you posted “The manual says that the intake manifold has an upper and lower part and to take the upper part off, so the valve cover can be taken off.“. Here is the best reference which happens to be in the Fuel chapter regarding removing the fuel rail. Then the actual “cylinder head cover” (VC) removal.


Here is from the ’04 FSM, some bolt type added.

FUEL RAIL/FUEL DAMPER -
2.4L
REMOVAL - 2.4L

WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER CONSTANT
PRESSURE EVEN WITH ENGINE OFF.
BEFORE SERVICING FUEL RAIL, FUEL SYSTEM
PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED.

The fuel rail can be removed without removing the
intake manifold if the following procedures are fol-
lowed.

(1) Remove fuel tank filler tube cap.
(2) Perform Fuel System Pressure Release Proce-
dure.
(3) Remove negative battery cable at battery.
(4) Remove air duct at throttle body.
(5) Disconnect fuel line latch clip and fuel line at
fuel rail. A special tool will be necessary for fuel line
disconnection. Refer to Quick-Connect Fittings.
(6) Remove necessary vacuum lines at throttle
body.
(7) Drain engine coolant and remove thermostat
and thermostat housing.
(8) Remove PCV hose and valve at valve cover.
(9) Remove 3 upper intake manifold mounting
bolts (Fig. 11), but only loosen 2 lower bolts about 2
turns.
(10) Disconnect 2 main engine harness connectors
at rear of intake manifold (Fig. 10).
(11) Disconnect 2 injection wiring harness clips at
harness mounting bracket (Fig. 11).
(12) Disconnect electrical connectors at all 4 fuel
injectors. To remove connector refer to (Fig. 12). Push
red colored slider away from injector (1). While push-
ing slider, depress tab (2) and remove connector (3)
from injector. The factory fuel injection wiring har-
ness is numerically tagged (INJ 1, INJ 2, etc.) for
injector position identification. If harness is not
tagged, note wiring location before removal.
(13) Remove 2 injection rail mounting bolts (Fig.
9).
(14) Gently rock and pull fuel rail until fuel injec-
tors just start to clear machined holes in intake man-
ifold.
(15) Remove fuel rail (with injectors attached)
from intake manifold.
(16) If fuel injectors are to be removed, refer to
Fuel Injector Removal/Installation.

Then (only showing the one line about the manifold)

INSTALLATION - 2.4L

Tighten 5 intake manifold mounting bolts.
Refer to Engine Torque Specifications.


Less reference in removing the VC


CYLINDER HEAD COVER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove intake manifold. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL)
(2) Remove ignition coil and spark plug wires.
(3) Disconnect PCV and make-up air hoses from
cylinder head cover.
(4) Remove cylinder head cover bolts.
(5) Remove cylinder head cover from cylinder
head.

INSTALLATION
NOTE: Replace spark plug well seals and bolt
assemblies when installing a new cylinder head
cover gasket.
(1) Install new cylinder head cover gaskets and
spark plug well seals (Fig. 24).
(2) Replace cylinder head cover bolt assemblies
(Fig. 25).
(3) Apply Mopart Engine RTV GEN II at the
camshaft cap corners and at the top edges of the 1/2
round seal (Fig. 26).
(4) Install cylinder head cover assembly to cylin-
der head. Install all bolts, ensuring the two (2) bolts
containing the sealing washer are located in the cen-
ter locations of cover. Tighten bolts in sequence
shown in (Fig. 27). Using a 3 step torque method as
follows:
(a) Tighten all bolts to 4.5 N·m (40 in. lbs.).
(b) Tighten all bolts to 9.0 N·m (80 in. lbs.).
(c) Tighten all bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).
(5) Install intake manifold.
(6) Install ignition coil and spark plug wires.
Tighten fasteners to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).
(7) If the PCV valve was removed, apply Mopart
Thread Sealant with Teflon to threads and install
valve to cylinder head cover. Tighten PCV valve to 8
N·m (70 in. lbs.).
(8) Connect PCV and make-up air hoses to cylin-
der head cover.


So neither references “splitting the manifold” or even referencing the actual upper manifold, just the upper manifold BOLTS. It appears the lower ones can be loosened & the manifold lifted up (the bottom “holes” may be open at the bottom edge, see photo below) or maybe just tipped back far enough to get the VC out avoiding disconnecting or removing everything from the manifold.(??)

I’m not sure the manifold is meant to separated at all.

Hope this helps.
 

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Mine intake came off in one piece. Didn’t disconnect any fuel lines from what I remember. I removed mine several times after the gasket fell off during reassembly. Bolts can be accessed with a long wobble extension. I replaced cylinder head and cams after timing belt broke.
 

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I replaced the gasket on my 97 2.5 without removing anything other then a few cables and hoses, unbolt and replace gasket, did not take off the intake manifold, I'm guessing the 2.4 is different.
 

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I replaced the gasket on my 97 2.5 without removing anything other then a few cables and hoses, unbolt and replace gasket, did not take off the intake manifold, I'm guessing the 2.4 is different.
Yes. The 2.5 and the 40 are essentially the same, but the 2.4 is a completely unrelated design. It was in the Neon, to give you an idea. I had a 2003 SE with the 2.4L and it cracked the manifold four times in ten years, so now I have a 2003 Sport. ;-)
 

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I tried everything to split the intake manifold when i did my turbo build so it would be easier to access the injectors but i didnt have any luck. It looks like its meant to split but i dont think it is.
 
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