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Discussion Starter #1
Fairly New here and new to the Jeep Life.
I have a 2014 Sahara Unlimited and would like to add a moderate lift to what is my daily driver. Do plan to offroad it but not really into rock crawling it. Also don't see myself going bigger than a 33" tire. Am planning on level 8 tracker pros when the come out. Would add the Fierce attitude mts 285/70/17/ I would like to stick to as close to bolt on as possible and would like to do this myself. Hate to pay labor for what I can do myself.
I have a list of a few different kits I have come across that I think fit my needs, but I would really appreciate any and all help and recommendations on which one to choose, which will be the most complete, and what I need to add to the kit I end up with. Thanks all for all the help in advance!
MO
Rancho RS66106B 3” Sport Suspension System
$513.94 amazon
Parts Included
Adjustable Front Track Bar
Rear Track Bar Bracket
Sway Bar End Links, Front
Front Brake Lines
Rear Brake Line Brackets
Front Bump Stop Spacers
Rear Bump Stop Spacers
Front and Rear Coil springs
Would add rancho 9000xl springs

Rancho RS66107 3” Trail Suspension System
$876.57 amazon
Parts Included
Adjustable Front Upper Control Arms
Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms
Adjustable Front Track Bar
Rear Track Bar Bracket
Sway Bar End Links, Front
Front Brake Lines
Rear Brake Line Brackets
Front Bump Stop Spacers
Rear Bump Stop Spacers
With Rancho 9000xl springs
Local 4wd shop didn't like the heim joints on the trail system
How do these track bars adjust?

AEV JK DualSport XT Suspension 2.5"
$939.00
Kit Contents:
• Springs (4)
• Shocks (4)
• Bump-stop spacers (4)
• Rear track bar (LHD only) (1)
• Rear track bar tower (1)
• Brake line drop bracket set (4)
• Front stabilizer end link relocation brackets (2)
Like the apparent completeness for the cost but am looking at rancho 9000xl shocks and this comes with bilsteins

Teraflex 1151200 3” Suspension Lift Kit
$802.74
Parts Included
Front and Rear Coil Springs
Rear Sway Bar Links
Front Sway Bar Disconnects
Front and Rear Bump Stops
Rear Track Bar Bracket
Pair - Stainless Brake Lines

Teraflex 1351000 2.5” Suspension Lift Kit
$479.99
Parts Included
Front and Rear Coil Springs
Front and Rear Bump Stops
Rear Sway Bar Links
Rear Track Bar Bracket
Rear Brake Line Brackets

Would add monster track bar
Teraflex 1753418 Adjustable Track Bar
$234.99

Rock Krawler Max Travel 2.5" System
RKJK25MT$1299.99 quadratec
Parts Included
2 long travel progressive rate front coil springs
Double adjustable front track bar made from 1.5” solid alloy steel
2 high clearance adjustable front lower control arms made of 1.625” solid alloy steel
Adjustable front sway bar disconnects
2 long travel linear rear coil springs
Precision welded rear track bar relocation bracket made from ¼” thick laser cut steel
2 high clearance adjustable rear lower control arms made of 1.625” solid alloy steel
Front and rear long travel stainless steel brake lines
Extended rear sway bar links
Hardware and detailed instructions.
add Rancho springs
this seems to be the most complete kit but is also the most expensive!
 

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For 33's, I suggest to stay at a 2.5 lift. Here's a write up I did last year with my 285/70/17 which measured exactly 32" when measured for Procal. If you want to hit 33's, go for the 285/75/17. For a 2.5, all you'll need are rear uppers to move the axle back a bit but you'll be ok without it.

Be sure to upgrade your bolts!!

Last, the front trackbar really isn't necessary for a 2.5 depending on the kit. If it's off centered by a huge margin, then yes. I suggest to install ur kit before u purchase a trackbar. It might not be needed.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/rubicon-express-2-5-monosteins-review-254067.html
 

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IMHO, I would stick with a 2.5" lift since you are planning on running a 33" tire. A 3" lift is too tall for that tire and may give your Jeep that "roller skate" look. All of the 2.5" lifts you mentioned are very popular with Forum members and of good quality. As a rule of thumb, the higher you go, the more money you will spend and that usually starts right around the 3" marker.

I would start here for more details on selecting the appropriate lift. kjeeper10 is super knowledgeable.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/newbys-guide-to-lifting-your-jk-298665.html
 

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I can vouch that Rock Krawler kits are very complete and ride and handle extremely well!! Having said that the 2.5" kit will probably give you over 3" without alot of added weight, Their 1.5" kit gives over 2" on a 4dr, I got 2.5" on my 2dr with a bunch of added weight. They rate their lifts on heavily built 4 doors with aftermarket bumpers, heavy armor, heavy spare tire etc...One thing to keep on mind is Rock Krawler does not include bump stops with their kits as bump stop size will vary depending on each persons setup
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I can vouch that Rock Krawler kits are very complete and ride and handle extremely well!! Having said that the 2.5" kit will probably give you over 3" without alot of added weight, Their 1.5" kit gives over 2" on a 4dr, I got 2.5" on my 2dr with a bunch of added weight. They rate their lifts on heavily built 4 doors with aftermarket bumpers, heavy armor, heavy spare tire etc...One thing to keep on mind is Rock Krawler does not include bump stops with their kits as bump stop size will vary depending on each persons setup
Thanks for input!
Forgot to add I plan to add at least a front bumper possibly winch! and eventually a rear. Looking at rockhard as they are only 20 miles from me!
 

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Take a look at the materials used in each lift when you are making your decision. If the lift uses polyurethane bushings or heim joints I personally would stay away from it. Poly bushings have a tendency to squeak, which can be quite annoying, and they wear out faster than OEM rubber joints. Heim joints are also noisy.

The Bilstein shocks in the AEV kit are better shocks than Rancho. No need to change to Rancho shocks if you go with the AEV kit.

The Teraflex spec Fox shocks work amazingly well when paired with the Teraflex lift.

3" lift is too much for 33s. I built my 2-door Jeep to run 37s, but put 35s on it. I could run 37s without changing a thing though, and would have enough tire clearance. And I have the Teraflex 3" lift.

For 33s I would suggest a Teraflex performance leveling kit (1.5" lift). Might as well keep it simple.

Her is what a Teraflex 3" lift looks like with 35s. The tires look small.

 

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Hey huskrjk, I just realized you have a 4-door JK. You need the 2.5" lift for a 4-door. They are too long and low in stock form, and drag their belly a lot. A 1.5" lift wouldn't be enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Take a look at the materials used in each lift when you are making your decision. If the lift uses polyurethane bushings or heim joints I personally would stay away from it. Poly bushings have a tendency to squeak, which can be quite annoying, and they wear out faster than OEM rubber joints. Heim joints are also noisy.

The Bilstein shocks in the AEV kit are better shocks than Rancho. No need to change to Rancho shocks if you go with the AEV kit.

The Teraflex spec Fox shocks work amazingly well when paired with the Teraflex lift.

3" lift is too much for 33s. I built my 2-door Jeep to run 37s, but put 35s on it. I could run 37s without changing a thing though, and would have enough tire clearance. And I have the Teraflex 3" lift.

For 33s I would suggest a Teraflex performance leveling kit (1.5" lift). Might as well keep it simple.

Her is what a Teraflex 3" lift looks like with 35s. The tires look small.

Nice looking jeep!
As far as 33s vs 35s i say that now but dont want to limit myself! When I do the lift I wanna do it once! I'll pay more now to have it complete. Thanks for the follow up comment on the unlimited vs 2 dr. I also want a coil lift for the same reason. Thanks for the input on heim joints and poly bushings. Dont want buyers remorse after I put the lift on!
So it sounds like your pick would be the AEV lift kit if Im deciphering things right?
Im not set on that wheel tire combination either!
Personally I dont think the 35s look small on your build but again thats all personal opinion.
Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
IMHO, I would stick with a 2.5" lift since you are planning on running a 33" tire. A 3" lift is too tall for that tire and may give your Jeep that "roller skate" look. All of the 2.5" lifts you mentioned are very popular with Forum members and of good quality. As a rule of thumb, the higher you go, the more money you will spend and that usually starts right around the 3" marker.

I would start here for more details on selecting the appropriate lift. kjeeper10 is super knowledgeable.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/newbys-guide-to-lifting-your-jk-298665.html
have read the ENTIRE newby guide to lifting my jeep!
Am still at a loss! there are just too many choices
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For 33's, I suggest to stay at a 2.5 lift. Here's a write up I did last year with my 285/70/17 which measured exactly 32" when measured for Procal. If you want to hit 33's, go for the 285/75/17. For a 2.5, all you'll need are rear uppers to move the axle back a bit but you'll be ok without it.

Be sure to upgrade your bolts!!

Last, the front trackbar really isn't necessary for a 2.5 depending on the kit. If it's off centered by a huge margin, then yes. I suggest to install ur kit before u purchase a trackbar. It might not be needed.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/rubicon-express-2-5-monosteins-review-254067.html
Thanks a lot! now youve added another potential suitor to the mix!
 

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So it sounds like your pick would be the AEV lift kit if Im deciphering things right?
Of the choices you offered I think the 2 1/2" AEV or 2 1/2" Teraflex lifts would be best. I agree with adding the Monster front track bar to the Teraflex lift. And you'll have to add the shocks of your choice, so the price is going to be pretty much equal to the AEV 2 1/2" lift.
 

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have read the ENTIRE newby guide to lifting my jeep! Am still at a loss! there are just too many choices
Personal choice man. Do what's best for you and how you're gonna use the jeep.
Both kits have their pros/cons IMO.

All I can say .. The TF 2.5 w/o shocks paired with Rancho 9000's and some sort of caster correction is a popular option. If you choose to run drop brackets .. Handling will be very close to AEV's setup.

The TF kit w/o shocks provides their rear track bar axle bracket which will center the axle and raise roll center. AEV provides a rear track bar for exhaust clearance. It's not really needed running TF's bracket and at 2.5.


Front track bar-
Neither AEV or TF provide one at 2.5. The axle is only going to kick over 3/8 or so. I do think a front track bar is safe insurance for DW. Same with the bolt kit from Northride.

Front swaybar links-
AEV provides stupid brackets for the front swaybar links. These are the dumbest things ever and many end up replacing with links.
The TF kit provides new longer rears w/ the rears are moved to the front. AEV does nothing for the rear. Whatever kit you choose, and if you wheel. A set of adjustable front quick disconnects will position the sway bar. Discos also allow quick disconnecting the links when off road.

Coils-
AEV use a multi rate coil. TF uses a linear coil.
The video TF posted explains the difference.at the end it's personal preference which coil you want to run.

Shocks-
AEV uses tuned 5100's, which are a firmer riding shock for a lot of people. Paired with the AEV coils they ride really nice IMO.
TF gives you options. I ran/did not care for their 9550's. The Rancho 9000's are a great and a very popular option. I lost count on how many people run the TF 2.5 and Rancho 9000 combo :thumb:
You'll want either 29xl and 30xl or 31xl and 32xl (be mindful of bump stop height running longer shocks) The 29/30 combo is most commonly run at 2.5.

Caster angle-http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/jeep-jk-caster-and-lifting-502001.html
AEV does not provide their drop brackets at 2.5" so you have to buy them separate. I do not recall anybody running the AEV setup without the brackets. Drop Brackets fix geometry, not just caster like front lower arms would. They kind of return the arm angle back to stock, very close to it or better.
TF does not address caster angle in their 2.5" kit. Since ride is 100% subjective and relative to what else is installed/road conditions/etc. Some will say you don't need brackets or lower arms at 2.5. I disagree With this ... Caster angle is caster angle. You drop in caster as you lift. Caster angle is huge as far as straight line handling. The drop brackets also smooth out the ride over unfavorable road conditions.
AEV of coarse has their own drop bracket. I run and personally prefer the Rancho brackets.
(AEV has multiple upper arm holes, Rancho only has one ??)
AEV targets a stock caster angle using the hole that matches your lift height. Rancho is set up w/ only one hole. This is ok because the higher you lift .. Pinion angle takes over importance.!
Everybody that reports their caster numbers at 2.5 come in right around 5* AEV will come in 4-4.5.
Either bracket will do their job well at expense of ground clearance.
Front lower arms can be used for caster as well. As mentioned, arms alone won't provide the geometry correction. Here is a Rancho link I have saved. (Use it to price match with any vender) hint hint.
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/rancho-rs6250b/?green=3BD1662C-ABEB-5003-9040-459291FCA480

Good luck with your choice. Don't forget this :D :whistling:
 

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I just went with the rock Krawler 3.5" flex lift and I have to say I am very impressed. I ordered it from Krawl-offroad.com. Send Jason an email at Krawl he will take very good care of you. He is very quick to respond to emails. But I went with Rock Krawler because their parts are idiot proof. Their warranty is awesome if you brake it any way possible they will replace plus all of their kits are upgradeable with your budget. Look at my signature page and you can see my jk with the 3.5" lift. their 2.5" lift will be just what you would like.

But like Kjeeper its mostly personl preference. All lift companies have pro's and cons and pretty much make good lift products.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Personal choice man. Do what's best for you and how you're gonna use the jeep.
Both kits have their pros/cons IMO.

All I can say .. The TF 2.5 w/o shocks paired with Rancho 9000's and some sort of caster correction is a popular option. If you choose to run drop brackets .. Handling will be very close to AEV's setup.

The TF kit w/o shocks provides their rear track bar axle bracket which will center the axle and raise roll center. AEV provides a rear track bar for exhaust clearance. It's not really needed running TF's bracket and at 2.5.


Front track bar-
Neither AEV or TF provide one at 2.5. The axle is only going to kick over 3/8 or so. I do think a front track bar is safe insurance for DW. Same with the bolt kit from Northride.

Front swaybar links-
AEV provides stupid brackets for the front swaybar links. These are the dumbest things ever and many end up replacing with links.
The TF kit provides new longer rears w/ the rears are moved to the front. AEV does nothing for the rear. Whatever kit you choose, and if you wheel. A set of adjustable front quick disconnects will position the sway bar. Discos also allow quick disconnecting the links when off road.

Coils-
AEV use a multi rate coil. TF uses a linear coil.
The video TF posted explains the difference.at the end it's personal preference which coil you want to run.

Shocks-
AEV uses tuned 5100's, which are a firmer riding shock for a lot of people. Paired with the AEV coils they ride really nice IMO.
TF gives you options. I ran/did not care for their 9550's. The Rancho 9000's are a great and a very popular option. I lost count on how many people run the TF 2.5 and Rancho 9000 combo :thumb:
You'll want either 29xl and 30xl or 31xl and 32xl (be mindful of bump stop height running longer shocks) The 29/30 combo is most commonly run at 2.5.

Caster angle-http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/jeep-jk-caster-and-lifting-502001.html
AEV does not provide their drop brackets at 2.5" so you have to buy them separate. I do not recall anybody running the AEV setup without the brackets. Drop Brackets fix geometry, not just caster like front lower arms would. They kind of return the arm angle back to stock, very close to it or better.
TF does not address caster angle in their 2.5" kit. Since ride is 100% subjective and relative to what else is installed/road conditions/etc. Some will say you don't need brackets or lower arms at 2.5. I disagree With this ... Caster angle is caster angle. You drop in caster as you lift. Caster angle is huge as far as straight line handling. The drop brackets also smooth out the ride over unfavorable road conditions.
AEV of coarse has their own drop bracket. I run and personally prefer the Rancho brackets.
(AEV has multiple upper arm holes, Rancho only has one ??)
AEV targets a stock caster angle using the hole that matches your lift height. Rancho is set up w/ only one hole. This is ok because the higher you lift .. Pinion angle takes over importance.!
Everybody that reports their caster numbers at 2.5 come in right around 5* AEV will come in 4-4.5.
Either bracket will do their job well at expense of ground clearance.
Front lower arms can be used for caster as well. As mentioned, arms alone won't provide the geometry correction. Here is a Rancho link I have saved. (Use it to price match with any vender) hint hint.
Rancho Part No. RS6250B - Lower Control Arm Axle Mounts

Good luck with your choice. Don't forget this :D :whistling:
Awesome as always! Was hoping you'd chime in!
U didn't mention the rockkrawler max travel kit I mentioned?
Thanks again for you input
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just went with the rock Krawler 3.5" flex lift and I have to say I am very impressed. I ordered it from Krawl-offroad.com. Send Jason an email at Krawl he will take very good care of you. He is very quick to respond to emails. But I went with Rock Krawler because their parts are idiot proof. Their warranty is awesome if you brake it any way possible they will replace plus all of their kits are upgradeable with your budget. Look at my signature page and you can see my jk with the 3.5" lift. their 2.5" lift will be just what you would like.

But like Kjeeper its mostly personl preference. All lift companies have pro's and cons and pretty much make good lift products.
What else if any thing did you add to that kit?
Txs for input!
 

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What else if any thing did you add to that kit?
Txs for input!
I added exhaust spacers for now because I am not taking it off road for a while. If you get the 3.5" and plan on taking it off road I would defiantly get a new front drive shaft. I went with Rancho 9000 shocks. I added 3" bump stops front and back. I also added extended steel braded brake lines front and back
 

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Hi and been reading all your posts regarding lifting including the one below.

Just purchased a new 2015 JKUR manual and while awaiting my build to arrive want to be ready to start lifting it as soon as it arrives.

So want to run 35" tires and am looking at a 2.5" lift kit. No rock crawling just logging roads, washouts and moderate trails. I will be adding bumpers and be carrying a full size back tire as well.

I like the AEV kit and is readily available where I live but with its shortcomings I am unsure!

Would you mind putting together a full lift component list based upon the above kit, minus the bad parts and including other parts that would make this kit complete. Or if you think another kit would be better. I don't like tons of added brackets that just seem lift kit designers have been too lazy to come up with something well engineered and bombproof instead.

Thanks in advance... :worthy:





Personal choice man. Do what's best for you and how you're gonna use the jeep.
Both kits have their pros/cons IMO.

All I can say .. The TF 2.5 w/o shocks paired with Rancho 9000's and some sort of caster correction is a popular option. If you choose to run drop brackets .. Handling will be very close to AEV's setup.

The TF kit w/o shocks provides their rear track bar axle bracket which will center the axle and raise roll center. AEV provides a rear track bar for exhaust clearance. It's not really needed running TF's bracket and at 2.5.


Front track bar-
Neither AEV or TF provide one at 2.5. The axle is only going to kick over 3/8 or so. I do think a front track bar is safe insurance for DW. Same with the bolt kit from Northride.

Front swaybar links-
AEV provides stupid brackets for the front swaybar links. These are the dumbest things ever and many end up replacing with links.
The TF kit provides new longer rears w/ the rears are moved to the front. AEV does nothing for the rear. Whatever kit you choose, and if you wheel. A set of adjustable front quick disconnects will position the sway bar. Discos also allow quick disconnecting the links when off road.

Coils-
AEV use a multi rate coil. TF uses a linear coil.
The video TF posted explains the difference.at the end it's personal preference which coil you want to run.

Shocks-
AEV uses tuned 5100's, which are a firmer riding shock for a lot of people. Paired with the AEV coils they ride really nice IMO.
TF gives you options. I ran/did not care for their 9550's. The Rancho 9000's are a great and a very popular option. I lost count on how many people run the TF 2.5 and Rancho 9000 combo :thumb:
You'll want either 29xl and 30xl or 31xl and 32xl (be mindful of bump stop height running longer shocks) The 29/30 combo is most commonly run at 2.5.

Caster angle-http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/jeep-jk-caster-and-lifting-502001.html
AEV does not provide their drop brackets at 2.5" so you have to buy them separate. I do not recall anybody running the AEV setup without the brackets. Drop Brackets fix geometry, not just caster like front lower arms would. They kind of return the arm angle back to stock, very close to it or better.
TF does not address caster angle in their 2.5" kit. Since ride is 100% subjective and relative to what else is installed/road conditions/etc. Some will say you don't need brackets or lower arms at 2.5. I disagree With this ... Caster angle is caster angle. You drop in caster as you lift. Caster angle is huge as far as straight line handling. The drop brackets also smooth out the ride over unfavorable road conditions.
AEV of coarse has their own drop bracket. I run and personally prefer the Rancho brackets.
(AEV has multiple upper arm holes, Rancho only has one ??)
AEV targets a stock caster angle using the hole that matches your lift height. Rancho is set up w/ only one hole. This is ok because the higher you lift .. Pinion angle takes over importance.!
Everybody that reports their caster numbers at 2.5 come in right around 5* AEV will come in 4-4.5.
Either bracket will do their job well at expense of ground clearance.
Front lower arms can be used for caster as well. As mentioned, arms alone won't provide the geometry correction. Here is a Rancho link I have saved. (Use it to price match with any vender) hint hint.
Rancho Part No. RS6250B - Lower Control Arm Axle Mounts

Good luck with your choice. Don't forget this :D :whistling:
 

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I know you want 33's but I have 35's on my Rubicon, and like you do off-roading but not into rock crawling at all. I have a Rubicon 2.5" Express Lift and love it, 35's never rub, but the Rubi's have 4.10 gears which are a little better for bigger tires, here's what it looks like with only a 2.5" lift, not bad
 

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I just went with the rock Krawler 3.5" flex lift and I have to say I am very impressed. I ordered it from Krawl-offroad.com. Send Jason an email at Krawl he will take very good care of you. He is very quick to respond to emails. But I went with Rock Krawler because their parts are idiot proof. Their warranty is awesome if you brake it any way possible they will replace plus all of their kits are upgradeable with your budget. Look at my signature page and you can see my jk with the 3.5" lift. their 2.5" lift will be just what you would like.

But like Kjeeper its mostly personl preference. All lift companies have pro's and cons and pretty much make good lift products.
I did the same and got the RK 3.5 XFactor from Krawl off road. Jason was good to work with. He never tried to oversell me anything and was able to fit my requirements, even got me the tires and wheels.

RK is good because you can upgrade all the way. Start with their budget 2.5 or 3.5 and then buy the arms as you want more. I did the math on an upgrade from their entry 2.5 inch system to the full blown XFactor, buying all the extra parts separately.

I was going to follow this path. Ended up getting a nice bonus so I went straight to the XFactor. Never did suspension work before, did it all myself.

1. Stock mod to 2.5 inch was $599 from Krawl off Road.
2. Upgrade to Flex was $405
a. (2) high clearance adjustable front lower control arms made of 1.625" solid alloy steel
b. Long travel front stainless steel brake lines, hardware and detailed instructions.*

3. Max Travel was another $405
a. (2) high clearance adjustable rear lower control arms made of 1.625" solid alloy steel
b. Rear long travel stainless steel brake lines

4. XFactor was another $702
a. (2) high misalignment adjustable front upper control arms made from 1.25" solid alloy steel
b. Double adjustable rear track bar made from 1.5" solid alloy steel
c. (2) high misalignment double adjustable rear upper control arms made from 1.25" solid alloy steel
d. (2) rear coil spring degree wedges, hardware and detailed instructions.
 

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I did the same and got the RK 3.5 XFactor from Krawl off road. Jason was good to work with. He never tried to oversell me anything and was able to fit my requirements, even got me the tires and wheels. RK is good because you can upgrade all the way. Start with their budget 2.5 or 3.5 and then buy the arms as you want more. I did the math on an upgrade from their entry 2.5 inch system to the full blown XFactor, buying all the extra parts separately. I was going to follow this path. Ended up getting a nice bonus so I went straight to the XFactor. Never did suspension work before, did it all myself. 1. Stock mod to 2.5 inch was $599 from Krawl off Road. 2. Upgrade to Flex was $405 a. (2) high clearance adjustable front lower control arms made of 1.625" solid alloy steel b. Long travel front stainless steel brake lines, hardware and detailed instructions.* 3. Max Travel was another $405 a. (2) high clearance adjustable rear lower control arms made of 1.625" solid alloy steel b. Rear long travel stainless steel brake lines 4. XFactor was another $702 a. (2) high misalignment adjustable front upper control arms made from 1.25" solid alloy steel b. Double adjustable rear track bar made from 1.5" solid alloy steel c. (2) high misalignment double adjustable rear upper control arms made from 1.25" solid alloy steel d. (2) rear coil spring degree wedges, hardware and detailed instructions.
The X factor and Max travel use different rear lowers ?
I would skip the Max and save for the X not paying for two sets of rear lower arms.
 
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