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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can I keep and use my stock sway bar links for a couple months with a 2.5" suspension lift? I'm going to upgrade to quick discos but won't be able to get them and install them for at least a month or two and I plan on putting on my 2.5" coils and shocks this weekend. I've driven many times without my sway bar but I would like it connected if It can still be usable with the lift. thanks!

How about the rear sway bar links will those be ok to?
 

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Can I keep and use my stock sway bar links for a couple months with a 2.5" suspension lift? I'm going to upgrade to quick discos but won't be able to get them and install them for at least a month or two and I plan on putting on my 2.5" coils and shocks this weekend. I've driven many times without my sway bar but I would like it connected if It can still be usable with the lift. thanks!

How about the rear sway bar links will those be ok to?
Yep. Ive been running the stock ones for about a year now with my 2.5 of lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
great now the only thing I have to figure out is my bump stops. I need about an inch in the front and about an 1.25" in the rear. I think I might try hockey pucks. What kind of epoxy will hold those suckers in place? JB weld?
 

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Can I keep and use my stock sway bar links for a couple months with a 2.5" suspension lift? I'm going to upgrade to quick discos but won't be able to get them and install them for at least a month or two and I plan on putting on my 2.5" coils and shocks this weekend. I've driven many times without my sway bar but I would like it connected if It can still be usable with the lift. thanks!

How about the rear sway bar links will those be ok to?
yes, you'll need to get extended front's at the least. otherwise you'll prematurely wear out the ball joints on the stock links, or more likely rip them out of the socket. you can also invert the sway bar if you flex enough.

for the rears, you can use WJ front links, they're about $15 on RockAuto.

bumpstops will determined by your shock length & suspension interferences. whats the collapsed and extended lengths of your shocks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes, you'll need to get extended front's at the least. otherwise you'll prematurely wear out the ball joints on the stock links, or more likely rip them out of the socket. you can also invert the sway bar if you flex enough.

for the rears, you can use WJ front links, they're about $15 on RockAuto.

bumpstops will determined by your shock length & suspension interferences. what's the collapsed and extended lengths of your shocks?

I will have to look into the WJ front links for the rear thanks! Is that a permanent fix and do they bolt right in or do i need to modify them?

As far as bump stops I'm running 2.5" suspension, 1.25" BL, 1" MML and OME N66/N67 shocks and 33x12.5 tires. I'm figuring an inch in the front and 1.25" in the rear sound about right?
 

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What year or years WJ can you use the front links in the rear of a TJ I have a 2.5" lift and I would like to replace my stock rear links with longer ones.
 

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I will have to look into the WJ front links for the rear thanks! Is that a permanent fix and do they bolt right in or do i need to modify them?
I haven't tried it since i got RE links for $5. but the reliable info I have is they just bolt on. alternatively, you could get early TJ models - hack them in half, figure out the distance you need, then sleeve and weld them back up. (early TJ's use a steel link with bushings vs late models which are one piece molded plastic),

I'm figuring an inch in the front and 1.25" in the rear sound about right?
yup, that is correct. you'll clear 33s nicely with that, with no issues.

What year or years WJ can you use the front links in the rear of a TJ I have a 2.5" lift and I would like to replace my stock rear links with longer ones.
WJ's span 99-04. look at RockAuto for a WJ in that range. they're not even worth going to the junkyard for they're so cheap.
 

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I haven't tried it since i got RE links for $5. but the reliable info I have is they just bolt on. alternatively, you could get early TJ models - hack them in half, figure out the distance you need, then sleeve and weld them back up. (early TJ's use a steel link with bushings vs late models which are one piece molded plastic),
Sounds much easier to just get a set of WJ front links for the back than hacking and welding. So it's your understanding that the front links would be the correct length for the rear with a 2.5" lift?
 
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