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I personally went with OME. The only other one worth considering is Rubicon Express, but from what I have seen, the YJ kits are not available at any of the dealers and the company is shut down for the time being. If you are gonna go with the Rough Country ride quality, you might as well get the 4" lift for the same money. OME is expensive, but it is a quality suspension system (not at all the typical lift kit quality) and worth the price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I personally went with OME. The only other one worth considering is Rubicon Express, but from what I have seen, the YJ kits are not available at any of the dealers and the company is shut down for the time being. If you are gonna go with the Rough Country ride quality, you might as well get the 4" lift for the same money. OME is expensive, but it is a quality suspension system (not at all the typical lift kit quality) and worth the price.
Thank you for your feed back
What else did you need to complete the install and insure no issues?( vibration, sway bar stuff,shackels, brake lines, ect.... )
 

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I went overkill with mine... I did it tossing around the idea of a futre SOA conversion, which remains a possibility. I have 3/4" lift shackles with the OME 2.5" light spring and shock set. OME urethane bushings, an AA SYE, CV rear drive shaft, extended brake lines front and rear. No track bars, custom extended sway bar disonnects, urethane sway bushings and a drop pitman arm. Currently around 3.5" of lift, and rides like a Caddy on 31" BFG AT's :thumb:

Really for a straight 2.5" lift you only need the springs, shocks, and to simply drp the mount for the stock brake lines. The OME kit comes with TC drop spacers, but many with a 2.5" lift are fine without them
 

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i don't know about OME but with RC I needed longer lines and I don't think 1" longer shackles did that much of a difference. If you go with extended lines definitely put the stainless steel braided ones. I did need a t-case drop but by far hoping to get away with throwing new u-joints on my drive shaft (however the right way would be to put SYE and CV shaft to take care of future potential issues). drop pitman arm is a consideration but OEM works ok so far. I put a set of quick disconnects on the sway bar and have no track bars. By far it is ok but I want to see how it is going to do on the highway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i don't know about OME but with RC I needed longer lines and I don't think 1" longer shackles did that much of a difference. If you go with extended lines definitely put the stainless steel braided ones. I did need a t-case drop but by far hoping to get away with throwing new u-joints on my drive shaft (however the right way would be to put SYE and CV shaft to take care of future potential issues). drop pitman arm is a consideration but OEM works ok so far. I put a set of quick disconnects on the sway bar and have no track bars. By far it is ok but I want to see how it is going to do on the highway.
Hey Alex,
Which disconnects did you use?
 

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Have TJ so not sure how relevant it is for you-replaced steering stabilizer at same time lift was installed, all parts OME love the ride and the "feel" of the steering now. Well worth every penny over stock-can not speak to quality or ride of any other lift-but don't see how it can be better than the ome?
 

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Hey Alex,
Which disconnects did you use?
RC. They come for 4-6" but the middle portion is a tube so I'll have to cut it to the size I need and drill new holes. I'll do a short writeup with pix for it later.
 

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Have TJ so not sure how relevant it is for you-replaced steering stabilizer at same time lift was installed, all parts OME love the ride and the "feel" of the steering now. Well worth every penny over stock-can not speak to quality or ride of any other lift-but don't see how it can be better than the ome?
I'm fine with RC 2.5". I though it was supposed to be much bumpier so I'm surprise it is relatively comfy. I cant judge though 'coz it is my first Wrangler and I didn't get a chance to drive any other either.
 

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I have the RC 2.5" with 1" shackles. I love the RC ride and feel. Much better than Pro Comp IMO. If you are doing the lift yourself be prepared that a floor jack and 4 jack stands are still not enough. I did the front first and then could not do the rear due to lack of an adequate lifting device. The new ubolts go on like a breeze using your existing plates. The other snag I ran into was getting the bushings and sleeves into the ends of the leaf springs. A little tight for my liking. If you do go with new shackles, make sure you get greasable ones. It makes a big difference, IMO.
I had to drop the tranny case 1" and shim the drive shaft. My brake lines were fine. I did remove the front traction bar (rear was already removed). I cannot tell any difference with it removed. i have driven up to 65mph with no problems. In fact, it drives better.
 

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@nurcebuck:
You had to shim the rear end on top of those it originally comes with?
 

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Yes. Each YJ is different. I have had some with lifts of up to 4" w/o having to do any drive line mods. However, whoever owned this jeep before me had rebuilt the tranny and adjusted the drive line several times. I was actually kinda surprised that I need the shims but it took care of the vibes and shutter.
 

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When replacing springs get ready for a big war with the inner bolts, possibly rotted frame/skid right where they come together. If you will go as far as changing lines get ready to change steel lines as they're more likely than not to brake (unless you changed them already :)). Just talking out of my recent experience installing 2.5" RC SL

Being normal is just crazy! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
When replacing springs get ready for a big war with the inner bolts, possibly rotted frame/skid right where they come together. If you will go as far as changing lines get ready to change steel lines as they're more likely than not to brake (unless you changed them already :)). Just talking out of my recent experience installing 2.5" RC SL

Being normal is just crazy! :D
which inner bolts? :confused: where?
 

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MYKIDS95YJ said:
which inner bolts? :confused: where?
The ones that mount the springs to the frame directly not through shackles. they're located closer to the t-case
 

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I have the RC 4" on mine, for the price it works. The install as mentioned was more about the old rusted bolts on the jeep. I had to cut out the spring bolts on the inner mounts on both sides.. 4" for 5" inch cut off wheel works wonders. Pitman had to be cut off too. Over all for the price it works well. I ditched both the front and rear trac-bars. I will be adding long front brake lines soon.
 

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When replacing springs get ready for a big war with the inner bolts, possibly rotted frame/skid right where they come together. If you will go as far as changing lines get ready to change steel lines as they're more likely than not to brake (unless you changed them already :)). Just talking out of my recent experience installing 2.5" RC SL
Yep, the right side of a Jeep YJ seems to be the worst. However, all of the inner leaf spring points had to be cut or torched out. It seems the inner sleeve fuses with the bolt and bushing. Nasty complication but nothing big if you have the right tools. It was the roughest part of the install. IMO.:D
 
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