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2.5" Lift vs 3" Lift - 35" Tires - JKU

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J
Both the Teraflex 2.5" and 3" suspension lift kits I'm considering come with the necessary parts. The 3" costs $180 more.

I know it seems like a small difference, but the difference is enough to require different parts. I don't know if it causes additional wear or issues to choose the 3 or if it's better than having the 2.5. Primarily my Daily driver, with occasional trails and off road, but no rock crawling in the near future. I've been told 3" won't affect the driveshaft or cause anything to wear at a different rate or have unique issues and I'm also adding a heavy duty track bar and Geometry Correction brackets.

Thoughts on which is better - 3" or the 2.5"? Advantages? Disadvantages?
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Rob50lx
I don't know which lift kit you are referring to; but usually the more parts-the more complete the lift kit. Higher lifts require more parts to ride or work properly but at the same time you can also improve lower lift kits by also upgrading or replacing OEM parts. Either height is fine for 35s but I'm guessing they get to their perspective heights using different methods. Here are examples of 3 different Metalcloak 2.5" lift kits that all contain the same 2.5" coil springs but have different intended uses. All 3 lifts will get you the same height from the 2.5" coil springs but the first one I have shown "Game Changer" will ride the best because it is the most complete lift kit with several "matched" shock options. Front drop control arm brackets will help with ride quality at the cost of ground clearance; there is a good debate on the merits of drop brackets and I'm on the side of use them even on a serious rock crawling JK. I use a stronger set of drop brackets on a full 3.5" game changer lift with 6Pak shocks and 38" tires. It all depends on how much you want to spend and how hard are you going to play! It is possible to have a very nice handling and riding Jeep setup for aggressive wheeling. If you are just staying on the street you won't need as many parts but oftentimes higher quality aftermarket parts will improve the ride and handling.

Look for a lift kit that includes adjustable track bars (stronger than OEM) and a quality raised rear track bar bracket of 4"-5" if you want to help with handling. Don't be afraid to consider front control arm drop brackets if on-road ride and handling are important to you. The drop brackets reduce brake dive and keep the control arms at or near level which will help absorb bumps. You can run factory arms with drop brackets; you can run adjustable control arms with drop brackets, but you can't run fixed control arms that are longer than stock with drop brackets.

You will also want to eventually upgrade your steering components to better than OEM parts because now at 2.5"-3" lift the angles and leverage on the tie rod and draglink have been altered and you are trying to steer bigger and heavier tires. The OEM parts will survive longer on the street but they will wear quickly if you go wheeling.

I only showed examples of Metalcloak lifts because that is what I'm familiar with and use. There are many quality brands out there that others use.


Top of the line Metalcloak "Game Changer" 2.5" lift with 6Pak shocks (notice in small thumbnails they offer several shock options)



Metalcloak good basic 2.5" lift without shocks


Another Metalcloak 2.5" lift without shocks but using front drop brackets instead of control arms.
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rsmwrangler
Maybe put a link to both kits to see what they have in their 2.5 and 3" and see what the difference gives you. Usually a 2.5" kit is 3" front 2" rear, whereas as 3" kit is 3" front 3" rear. Know you can run 35's with 2" lift and it'll be drive really good with just a set of front lowers. The higher you go the more the attention to details you need to care for and that will matter for your geometry, driveability and parts longevity.
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JTPhoto JK
I believe that 3” kit he speaks of is likely the TF 3” SST kit. More of a pre runner type set up hence the reason it’s a bit different. I don’t remember the difference exactly, it’s been awhile since I looked at it.


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J
Sure! This is the 3" TF link- https://teraflex.com/jk-4dr-3-coil-spring-base-lift-kit-no-shocks.html

As mentioned, I'm already doing an adjustable heavy duty track bar on front as well as Geometry Correction brackets and putting in a heavy duty steering assembly for the drag link and a Bilstein steering stabilizer. Putting on Bilstein 5100 shocks. Doing those additions whether it's on 2.5 or 3.

This is the TF 2.5" - https://teraflex.com/jk-4dr-2-5-coil-spring-base-lift-kit-no-shocks-or-shock-extensions.html
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J
This is my Jeep currently with the Rough Country 2.5" spacers.
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Rob50lx
Jdub58 said:
Sure! This is the 3" TF link- https://teraflex.com/jk-4dr-3-coil-spring-base-lift-kit-no-shocks.html

As mentioned, I'm already doing an adjustable heavy duty track bar on front as well as Geometry Correction brackets and putting in a heavy duty steering assembly for the drag link and a Bilstein steering stabilizer. Putting on Bilstein 5100 shocks. Doing those additions whether it's on 2.5 or 3.

This is the TF 2.5" - https://teraflex.com/jk-4dr-2-5-coil-spring-base-lift-kit-no-shocks-or-shock-extensions.html
Click to expand...
So from what I can tell, the 2.5" kit is meant to be a more "complete" kit without shocks. It is supposed to keep you at a height that doesn't require too many additional parts. It looks to include shock extensions to be able to use your existing shocks.

The 3" lift kit is just the bare essentials to get you to 3" height while allowing you to chose the shocks and additional parts to suit your needs. There doesn't appear to be any shock extensions while including exhaust spacers and front brake line anchors. This kit appears to be available with 3 different spring packages if you look at the instructions.

I would chose the 2.5" kit so that you don't have to worry about driveshafts and exhaust spacers; but you are going to get shock extensions which you won't need. Nothing against Teraflex but I don't like package contents of either kit as there would be items that I wouldn't want to use. I'm not saying the parts are bad just that I would do things differently.

Here is what I would do:
1. Buy just a set of (4) 2.5" springs that will work well with your choice of shocks. (I don't know enough about shocks to give you a recommendation.)
2. Buy quality new extended brake lines instead of brake line drop brackets. This will get you fresh brake lines and potentially replace worn factory brake lines that may cause future problems.
3. Since you already have or are going to purchase front track bar and drop brackets, look into also getting a quality rear track bar and raised bracket. Make sure that rear TB can go slightly shorter than stock to allow you to use tall 4"-5" rear bracket on 2.5" lift while still centering the rear axle. If you haven't purchased front drop bracket yet, Rancho and JKS appear to be the strongest since they are 1-piece design. I like Metalcloak for rear track bar and bracket but again there are many other great choices out there.
4. I think Metalcloak makes a great value bumpstop kit for the front and rear. They are way better than the factory yellow/brown foam bumpstops and you should do the front when replacing the springs. I also like their adjustable bumpstop spacers compared to a fixed bumpstop spacer. The fixed spacer may work but how does any manufacture know what size tire, shock length, and fender that is going to be used with their kit? I even got away with using a hole saw on a 2x4 to make some front bumpstop spacers when I was starting out. Hockey pucks are also great for the front.
5. Although this would be a little more expensive, I would look at JKS for a great set of front sway bar disconnect links since you don't have a Rubicon. Disconnecting the front sway bar offroad makes for a smoother ride. If you bought front disconnects, you would also need to buy longer rear links.
6. With front control arm drop brackets there isn't an immediate need for control arms unless the bushings are worn out or you want a better articulating control arm/bushing. I would look at a set of adjustable rear control arms to be able to dial in rear pinion angle. I'm not a fan of any control arm that uses a OEM style Clevite as it has limited range of motion and can add stress to factory control arm brackets if you wheel much; however, they are a maintenance free bushing with good NVH properties. I prefer the free rotating/articulating bushings like Metalcloak or other bushings from several manufactures. Also stay away from the typical Poly bushing that is offered from energy suspension or Prothane as they will squeak and eventually deform with hard use.

If you ever consider any Metalcloak parts get on their mailing list as they regularly have online 10% flash sales around many holidays like the one coming up.


These are the bumpstops replacements that are a great value. I like the adjustable bumpstop spacers but there are cheaper and free options available if you are handy.


This is an example of the JKS quick disconnect links. I'm not saying that these are the correct length that you need, they were just the 1st picture I found.


I do not like any track bar or control arm that has this style of Poly bushing for offroad use.


The Clevite bushing is low on my list but better than the Poly bushing and is suitable for track bars in most situations. If the track bar does have a Clevite bushing look to see if it is a higher durometer than the factory TB bushing. I know JKS specifically says their track bars come with firm/high durometer bushings.
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rsmwrangler
Looking at the pics you get exhaust spacers, a set of brake line anchor brackets for the front, a set of extra sway bar links and i'd think 3" coils with the 3" kit
The 2.5 seems to be what was known around here as "The most popular lift in the WF forum" :)
So with that one you should get more "forum" support lol, you would still need the exaust spacers or like i said in another thread of yours, your local muffler shop can cut the 2 pipes and reweld them backwards and away from the stock DS boot and should be a lot quicker than trying to mess with rusted exhaust bolts that have been there for years.
In either case you'll need more supporting mods, like Rob indicated above. Less parts needed with 2.5, but still there are other things needed.
Forum support will give you ideas of what to expect or what you'll need lol

www.wranglerforum.com

Most popular lift/shock setup on WF

This is just one setup. I recommend it all the time and many run it. I figure making a thread to link to instead of typing will save a lot of time. Lift kit Teraflex 2.5" coil lift without shocks or extensions why in bold ? Because without shocks or extensions, the rear frame side TB bracket...
www.wranglerforum.com www.wranglerforum.com
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J
Rob50lx said:
So from what I can tell, the 2.5" kit is meant to be a more "complete" kit without shocks. It is supposed to keep you at a height that doesn't require too many additional parts. It looks to include shock extensions to be able to use your existing shocks.

The 3" lift kit is just the bare essentials to get you to 3" height while allowing you to chose the shocks and additional parts to suit your needs. There doesn't appear to be any shock extensions while including exhaust spacers and front brake line anchors. This kit appears to be available with 3 different spring packages if you look at the instructions.

I would chose the 2.5" kit so that you don't have to worry about driveshafts and exhaust spacers; but you are going to get shock extensions which you won't need. Nothing against Teraflex but I don't like package contents of either kit as there would be items that I wouldn't want to use. I'm not saying the parts are bad just that I would do things differently.

Here is what I would do:
1. Buy just a set of (4) 2.5" springs that will work well with your choice of shocks. (I don't know enough about shocks to give you a recommendation.)
2. Buy quality new extended brake lines instead of brake line drop brackets. This will get you fresh brake lines and potentially replace worn factory brake lines that may cause future problems.
3. Since you already have or are going to purchase front track bar and drop brackets, look into also getting a quality rear track bar and raised bracket. Make sure that rear TB can go slightly shorter than stock to allow you to use tall 4"-5" rear bracket on 2.5" lift while still centering the rear axle. If you haven't purchased front drop bracket yet, Rancho and JKS appear to be the strongest since they are 1-piece design. I like Metalcloak for rear track bar and bracket but again there are many other great choices out there.
4. I think Metalcloak makes a great value bumpstop kit for the front and rear. They are way better than the factory yellow/brown foam bumpstops and you should do the front when replacing the springs. I also like their adjustable bumpstop spacers compared to a fixed bumpstop spacer. The fixed spacer may work but how does any manufacture know what size tire, shock length, and fender that is going to be used with their kit? I even got away with using a hole saw on a 2x4 to make some front bumpstop spacers when I was starting out. Hockey pucks are also great for the front.
5. Although this would be a little more expensive, I would look at JKS for a great set of front sway bar disconnect links since you don't have a Rubicon. Disconnecting the front sway bar offroad makes for a smoother ride. If you bought front disconnects, you would also need to buy longer rear links.
6. With front control arm drop brackets there isn't an immediate need for control arms unless the bushings are worn out or you want a better articulating control arm/bushing. I would look at a set of adjustable rear control arms to be able to dial in rear pinion angle. I'm not a fan of any control arm that uses a OEM style Clevite as it has limited range of motion and can add stress to factory control arm brackets if you wheel much; however, they are a maintenance free bushing with good NVH properties. I prefer the free rotating/articulating bushings like Metalcloak or other bushings from several manufactures. Also stay away from the typical Poly bushing that is offered from energy suspension or Prothane as they will squeak and eventually deform with hard use.

If you ever consider any Metalcloak parts get on their mailing list as they regularly have online 10% flash sales around many holidays like the one coming up.


These are the bumpstops replacements that are a great value. I like the adjustable bumpstop spacers but there are cheaper and free options available if you are handy.
View attachment 4582503

This is an example of the JKS quick disconnect links. I'm not saying that these are the correct length that you need, they were just the 1st picture I found.
View attachment 4582504

I do not like any track bar or control arm that has this style of Poly bushing for offroad use.
View attachment 4582505

The Clevite bushing is low on my list but better than the Poly bushing and is suitable for track bars in most situations. If the track bar does have a Clevite bushing look to see if it is a higher durometer than the factory TB bushing. I know JKS specifically says their track bars come with firm/high durometer bushings.
View attachment 4582506
Click to expand...
So are the drop brackets the same thing as Geometry Correction Brackets? And are these used instead of longer Control Arms? The shop specializes in lifts and it's all they do, and they spoke very highly of the Teraflex and recommended going the no-shock route so that I could put Bilsteins on it. Why do I get such different information on the whole Driveshaft possibly needed thing? The steering assembly im getting comes with the drag link, etc as well, so I wasn't really thinking there was anything extra needed lol. The shop mentioned it would come with a rear TB as well. All this stuff is so confusing lol.
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J
Jdub58 said:
So are the drop brackets the same thing as Geometry Correction Brackets? And are these used instead of longer Control Arms? The shop specializes in lifts and it's all they do, and they spoke very highly of the Teraflex and recommended going the no-shock route so that I could put Bilsteins on it. Why do I get such different information on the whole Driveshaft possibly needed thing? The steering assembly im getting comes with the drag link, etc as well, so I wasn't really thinking there was anything extra needed lol. The shop mentioned it would come with a rear TB as well. All this stuff is so confusing lol.
Click to expand...
Lol, yea I've seen a lot out there on the TF 2.5" being great on the forum and all over the internet and YouTube videos. Is it actually better than the 3" tho if I'm getting those other parts I mentioned?
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Rob50lx
Yes drop brackets and Geometry correction brackets are the same. These brackets can be used as stand alone with stock arms or stock length aftermarket arms. They can also be used with adjustable arms but are rarely done in that configuration unless you want extra tuning for precise axle location which is usually only required in extreme cases. The brackets generally can't be used with "Fixed non-stock" length aftermarket arms because they probably won't put your axle in the proper location. Adjustable arms or drop brackets will be able to get you a desirable Caster angle but adjustable arms won't offer as comfortable road ride since the angles of the the control arms are not close to stock; however, you do gain a ground clearance advantage with just using adjustable arms with no brackets.

Stock driveshafts have issues after a certain lift height. The higher you go, the quicker they will wear out even on the street. The more articulation (down travel) a suspension has will also quickly exceed the angle that stock driveshafts can handle. My Metalcloak 2.5" lift was more than stock driveshafts could handle because my shocks had 15" of travel which meant my axles could droop way more than a typical 2.5" lift with 9"-11" travel shocks.

Again, the Teraflex 2.5" lift is more of a kit to give you a lot of the parts to drive with the 2.5" lift and wants to keep you at a height to minimize driveshaft issues and the need for more parts. The 3" Teraflex lift is just the bare minimum to get you to a 3" height that will require the purchase of more parts. The 2.5" is designed to stay at that height and no more and to use the stock shocks. The 3" is just the first part of stepping up to 3" lift with the choice to pick the additional parts based on your budget or needs.
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J
Rob50lx said:
Yes drop brackets and Geometry correction brackets are the same. These brackets can be used as stand alone with stock arms or stock length aftermarket arms. They can also be used with adjustable arms but are rarely done in that configuration unless you want extra tuning for precise axle location which is usually only required in extreme cases. The brackets generally can't be used with "Fixed non-stock" length aftermarket arms because they probably won't put your axle in the proper location. Adjustable arms or drop brackets will be able to get you a desirable Caster angle but adjustable arms won't offer as comfortable road ride since the angles of the the control arms are not close to stock; however, you do gain a ground clearance advantage with just using adjustable arms with no brackets.

Stock driveshafts have issues after a certain lift height. The higher you go, the quicker they will wear out even on the street. The more articulation (down travel) a suspension has will also quickly exceed the angle that stock driveshafts can handle. My Metalcloak 2.5" lift was more than stock driveshafts could handle because my shocks had 15" of travel which meant my axles could droop way more than a typical 2.5" lift with 9"-11" travel shocks.

Again, the Teraflex 2.5" lift is more of a kit to give you a lot of the parts to drive with the 2.5" lift and wants to keep you at a height to minimize driveshaft issues and the need for more parts. The 3" Teraflex lift is just the bare minimum to get you to a 3" height that will require the purchase of more parts. The 2.5" is designed to stay at that height and no more and to use the stock shocks. The 3" is just the first part of stepping up to 3" lift with the choice to pick the additional parts based on your budget or needs.
Click to expand...
So then, basically the 2.5" is going to be a safer choice and less likely to cause possible driveshaft issues or other concerns, even though just 1/2" shorter? I was under the impression that the 3" kit in addition to purchasing the Steering Assembly, Steering Stabilizer, Adjustable Heavy Duty Track Bar, Geometry Correction Brackets, and the Bilstein 5100 shocks was all that was necessary to do the 3" or 2.5". Sounds like that's not the case?
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cranbiz
I run a Teraflex 2.5" lift with Bilstein shocks, HD adjustable track bar, .75" spacers with Clayton adjustable control arms all around. I also run aftermarket double cardan driveshafts. I have done a lot more now that it's a semi dedicated off road Jeep. New D44 axle, HD drag link, aluminum tie rod with 2.5 ton ends, PCS steering box and pump, big brakes, 37's, gears, etc.

You really don't need to do anything with the steering for on the road use. You don't need a fancy steering stabilizer, the stock one works fine.

My original configuration was the lift and shocks and an aftermarket track bar. I didn't have drop brackets and that was my DD for several years. I only replaced my driveshafts at that time because the boots were torn and leaking grease.

For 2.5" lift, using the Teraflex kit you really don't need more than the kit, shocks and a track bar. Drop brackets can help with the ride but I wouldn't buy them until you run it for a bit. You may decide to get control arms and then the drop brackets won't be needed. You may also find that you are fine as is. Start slow, add as you find things out that you don't like or want to improve.
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rsmwrangler
The thing with lifting with coils is that there is really no standard for height numbers when it comes from the manufacturers to provide xxx lift, so you always get a complete different lift depending on what model Jeep you have. main difference when you add say 2.5" spacers to your coils is that you get xx of lift because of the spacers. So Just cause the advertisement of coil spring lift say 2.5 or 3" doesnt mean you'll get that number. Everybody always seem to get more lift than advertised unless you did an RC coil lift :) My Jeep went up to 3" with the RK 1.5" coils in stock trim. After adding bumper, winch skids, sliders etc it went to about 2.5 then eventually down to 2 3/8 and that's the reason i added the 3/4 spacers to go back to what i needed to get me into the 3" range. Plenty of people get 3-3.5" with 2.5" coils if they didn't have weight, so i takes weight to push the coils down to get the advertised lift. Sure if you look at just the numbers you may see just 1/2 difference but in reality that might not be the case. Maybe somebody with the TF 3" coils will see this post and reply hopefully with what height they got and with what mods.

Start with the TF 2.5" coils in this case, it'll be best in your case, see how high it goes, see how it drives, then if want to go up to 3" if you ended up with 2.5" TF sell 1/2" spacers. Take the free advise from those who have done this more than once... The lower you keep your Jeep the easier the setup will be to make it drive good.

This was with 2" OME coils, about 2.25-2.5" lift in reality
20160730_141826 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

But with OME L shocks.
13876566_1823285174567106_5324046354472188549_n by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Granted i also had little more mods in that Jeep than just a set of coils and shocks :)
this is my 2nd Jeep now lifted 3"
2023-04-21_07-17-37 by RAM RSM, on Flickr
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rsmwrangler said:
The thing with lifting with coils is that there is really no standard for height numbers when it comes from the manufacturers to provide xxx lift, so you always get a complete different lift depending on what model Jeep you have. main difference when you add say 2.5" spacers to your coils is that you get xx of lift because of the spacers. So Just cause the advertisement of coil spring lift say 2.5 or 3" doesnt mean you'll get that number. Everybody always seem to get more lift than advertised unless you did an RC coil lift :) My Jeep went up to 3" with the RK 1.5" coils in stock trim. After adding bumper, winch skids, sliders etc it went to about 2.5 then eventually down to 2 3/8 and that's the reason i added the 3/4 spacers to go back to what i needed to get me into the 3" range. Plenty of people get 3-3.5" with 2.5" coils if they didn't have weight, so i takes weight to push the coils down to get the advertised lift. Sure if you look at just the numbers you may see just 1/2 difference but in reality that might not be the case. Maybe somebody with the TF 3" coils will see this post and reply hopefully with what height they got and with what mods.

Start with the TF 2.5" coils in this case, it'll be best in your case, see how high it goes, see how it drives, then if want to go up to 3" if you ended up with 2.5" TF sell 1/2" spacers. Take the free advise from those who have done this more than once... The lower you keep your Jeep the easier the setup will be to make it drive good.

This was with 2" OME coils, about 2.25-2.5" lift in reality
20160730_141826 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

But with OME L shocks.
13876566_1823285174567106_5324046354472188549_n by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Granted i also had little more mods in that Jeep than just a set of coils and shocks :)
this is my 2nd Jeep now lifted 3"
2023-04-21_07-17-37 by RAM RSM, on Flickr
Click to expand...
That's good info. I thought adding just a spacer wasn't ideal when comparing to an actual coil lift? Like it causes extra wear or something? Hope not cuz adding a spacer one day is a good idea if no issue.

How do you measure the actual lift you get? What point can you measure from that you didn't replace with the kit? I guess maybe axles or tires?
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rsmwrangler
Jdub58 said:
That's good info. I thought adding just a spacer wasn't ideal when comparing to an actual coil lift? Like it causes extra wear or something? Hope not cuz adding a spacer one day is a good idea if no issue.

How do you measure the actual lift you get? What point can you measure from that you didn't replace with the kit? I guess maybe axles or tires?
Click to expand...
This thread has all the info that will show you how to measure front and rear
I did measure my My stock 18 JKU Sport S in the front by the shocks, and it was 18" even, bone stock. 21" after mods
in the rear it was 5" even between the bumpstop jouncer cup and the bumstop pad, 8" after mods.

www.wranglerforum.com

How to measure JK lift height ?

Front seems to be very well documented But how do we measure the rear using the same concept ? I've never checked my lift height, specially the rear height, because i never took measurements stock to compare, so i always say 2" lift in general :) Thanks a lot.
www.wranglerforum.com www.wranglerforum.com

I find it better to lift with coils, only use a little spacer as needed to correct a trim or get you a little higher, i have a lot spacers in my garage because i use them to fine tune a desired height. One day i'll have coilovers in the Jeep like i have in my truck :) then i won't care for spacers anymore in the Jeep . In this instance i woudn't do anything bigger than 3/4", and it's cheaper to use a small spacer to get me into a true 3" lift in my case than going up higher than expected if i get new coils. I like the rates i have in those coils and my current shocks feel great with them where i need them to feel great, so i have zero need to try something different.
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JTPhoto JK
Jdub58 said:
That's good info. I thought adding just a spacer wasn't ideal when comparing to an actual coil lift? Like it causes extra wear or something? Hope not cuz adding a spacer one day is a good idea if no issue.

How do you measure the actual lift you get? What point can you measure from that you didn't replace with the kit? I guess maybe axles or tires?
Click to expand...



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