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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks to all those who encouraged me to install myself. It really wasn't too bad at all. To those so have a place to do it and the right tools, I would suggest you do it yourself also.

Took 3.5 hours to install the four new coils and shocks by myself. I didn't need spring compressors like some had suggested, but any taller springs than a 2" lift would require them IMO. I just followed the excellent instructions on 4x4xplor that so many people had referenced before. I didn't do the alignment myself, could have, but for $75 it was worth it to me to have my trusted shop use their lasers and sensors line everything up.

It hasn't been a week fully installed yet, but the front lifted 2.5" and the back lifted 3". So that ended up leaving me with a rake of 1" higher in the rear so far. But I have a soft top, stock rear bumper and no back seat. I'm thinking with a bit more weight in the back I would return it to the .5"rake it had prior to the lift.

I don't think it looks girly anymore and wife now thinks it looks ******* (which I think is good!):punk:
Hopefully this post answers some questions other guys have had.

Oh, I have 31x10.5 bfg on the stock rims. Going to install 1" wheel spacers to give it a touch wider stance and a little better look. If anyone thinks wheel spacers are a bad idea, please let me know.
 

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Looks great!!! I am planning on ordering mine and installing it in the next week or two.
 

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Looks good! Did you get any driveline vibrations? I have 2" BDS coils, OME shocks, and JKS adjustable sway bar links. I ended up with vibrations coming from the under the center console. I bought the same size bolts and washers referenced the TC drop write up on 4x4explorer.com. I'd like to get a SYE kit, but it will require installing rear upper control arms.
 

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Very nice! Gives me good idea as well how my TJ will look after 2-2.5 OME + BFG AT's which I both hope to install soon (and looks really good so can give myself green light and go ahead with install :thumb:)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No vibrations so far. Haven't been on the highway yet though. That's why I stayed with the 2", to hopefully keep the side effects to a minimum.
Think I'm going to add the JKS disconnects also. Take full advantage of the suspension. The bushings on the stock equipment look smashed and I don't think it would hurt to replace the sway bar links.
 

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Looks awesome man, now I know what mine will look like. Still waiting on the bilsteins that are on back order..Was it a breeze putting in? I have the jks quicker disconnects also.
 

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looks good. As for wheel spacers get good ones like spydertracks but be warned that are a little pricy. A new set of steel wheels would run you almost the same amount of money and get that wider stance with the right back spacing
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looks awesome man, now I know what mine will look like. Still waiting on the bilsteins that are on back order..Was it a breeze putting in? I have the jks quicker disconnects also.
Breeze, no. But a little patience and the right tools go a long way. I did buy a torque wrench to follow the instructions perfectly. Already had everything else. An impact wrench definately helps speed things along. I probably sprayed everything down three times the week prior with rust eater. I don't know if that helped or not? My jeep is almost rust free, so it wasn't all locked up. Also here's a hint for front shock removal - mine wouldn't break off by bending them over and the nuts are impossible to get off, so I used a recip saw. Just saw the bolt off the top of the shock and it falls right out. Don't know why I never read this before, but it makes the removal quick. Otherwise it's all pretty self explanatory.
 

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JEEP OUT
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Breeze, no. But a little patience and the right tools go a long way. I did buy a torque wrench to follow the instructions perfectly. Already had everything else. An impact wrench definately helps speed things along. I probably sprayed everything down three times the week prior with rust eater. I don't know if that helped or not? My jeep is almost rust free, so it wasn't all locked up. Also here's a hint for front shock removal - mine wouldn't break off by bending them over and the nuts are impossible to get off, so I used a recip saw. Just saw the bolt off the top of the shock and it falls right out. Don't know why I never read this before, but it makes the removal quick. Otherwise it's all pretty self explanatory.
Thanks, good to know about just sawing the top bolt off.
 

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I installed the same kit last weekend, install was easy and I forgot to measure before but my results are by eye ball about the same as yours. We have a hard top and about 1/2" higher in the rear which use to be about 1" lower! New rims and tires should go on tomorrow. I will toss a picture or two up after that.
I did get some drive line vibrations and will be getting some longer bolts and washers to drop the transfer case, gonna start with 1/2" and see how that goes.

Set the toe and centered the steering wheel myself and it drives perfect and rides substantially better!

Great kit!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Good job, you set your toe-in after installing the lift right? :)
Thanks Jerry. Yes, Had the pros do it for me. I wimped out and ran out of time. Only cost me $75. They said it was way out, 3/4". They recentered the steering wheel at the same time. Who would have guessed that just putting on new springs would jack up everything so bad?:confused:
 
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