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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I could use some advice from the BTDT crew I think as I am suffering from analysis paralysis. I have a set of Rubicon shocks and 18/60 springs that I had on my previous JK Sport for a little bit. I also have Rubicon wheels and tires. I have another, new, JK 2DR Sport and am debating between adding the springs back on or going with a 2.5 TF or 2" Rancho lift. No plans on increasing tire size until these wear out and then I'm not sure I will even go up to 35's.

My concerns are this...the 18/60 springs did change how the Jeep handled and went over bumps. The steering was quicker/touchier and it felt "jittery" over bumps. I also found that the stability control came on much more often. These were not issues that I particularly liked.

Are those "issues" common with all lifts that to not include geometry correcting parts like control arms or TB brackets? If I added something like Synergy front lowers would that help? With my old Jeep, I never did an alignment. With this one, no matter what I do I will get it checked.

Thanks!
 

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IF your running stock springs, that means 18/60 handling is going to about the same. But all 2 doors IMO are a bit on the 'jittery' side using your words, even when properly aligned. To eliminate that get the Griffin Attenuator from Steer Smarts. This is the single best mod you can make to a 2 door, stock or lifted.
 

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if your running stock springs, that means 18/60 handling is going to about the same. But all 2 doors imo are a bit on the 'jittery' side using your words, even when properly aligned. To eliminate that get the griffin attenuator from steer smarts. This is the single best mod you can make to a 2 door, stock or lifted.
^^^x2..
 

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IF your running stock springs, that means 18/60 handling is going to about the same. But all 2 doors IMO are a bit on the 'jittery' side using your words, even when properly aligned. To eliminate that get the Griffin Attenuator from Steer Smarts. This is the single best mod you can make to a 2 door, stock or lifted.
Close... I would put the TF Sport lower control arms as number 1, then a tie between the attenuator and quality aftermarket shocks.

I personally think the 2drs don't come with enough caster... They spec the same as 4drs, but in my opinion the shouldn't.
 

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My 2 doors handle and ride like crap compared to my 4 door Jeeps. Can't rewrite physics. Wheelbase is what it is.
IMO a good quality progressive spring with shocks designed to marry coupled with geo correction is the key more on a 2 door than ever.
 

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Close... I would put the TF Sport lower control arms as number 1, then a tie between the attenuator and quality aftermarket shocks.

I personally think the 2drs don't come with enough caster... They spec the same as 4drs, but in my opinion the shouldn't.
The Griffin was my 2nd mod and out of all of them has made the biggest change to how the vehicle handles and feels. Even adding my lift (it added castor) did not impact it in the way the Griffin did. It pretty much eliminated the lane wondering. It did eliminated the ESC light coming on while hitting an expansion point in the middle of a turn. It allowed for one finger driving instead of 2 handed at time white knuckle driving.

I said it before and I will say it again all Jeeps should of come off the factory floor with this mod. IMO it does not only improve feeling and handling it also improves safety.
 

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The Griffin was my 2nd mod and out of all of them has made the biggest change to how the vehicle handles and feels. Even adding my lift (it added castor) did not impact it in the way the Griffin did. It pretty much eliminated the lane wondering. It did eliminated the ESC light coming on while hitting an expansion point in the middle of a turn. It allowed for one finger driving instead of 2 handed at time white knuckle driving.

I said it before and I will say it again all Jeeps should of come off the factory floor with this mod. IMO it does not only improve feeling and handling it also improves safety.
My timing is similar to yours... I was one of the early adopters of the attenuator. Yes, big improvement... But not nearly what putting a lot more caster in did.

Just another confirmation that every Jeep is a little different.

Our 2dr is running 23" front lowers on 18/59 springs and it's at 6 deg caster. Best driving 2dr I've been in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys. @Pressurized The TF over others because of the lift amount I am assuming. I have seen Synergy recommended for the 2.5 lifts somewhere on here. What about a Core 4x4 adjustable one? Since I am trying to live by the motto of only spending my money once, maybe an adjustable could "grow" with me.
@RubiconSS I have read your appreciation of the Rancho kit. It seems like there are a few ways I can go with this, just depends on what I want to spend I guess.

The Rubicon shocks are a step up from the stock Sport ones, but not quite as good as a Rancho 5000X or the 9000's?
 

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Thanks guys. @Pressurized The TF over others because of the lift amount I am assuming. I have seen Synergy recommended for the 2.5 lifts somewhere on here. What about a Core 4x4 adjustable one? Since I am trying to live by the motto of only spending my money once, maybe an adjustable could "grow" with me.
@RubiconSS I have read your appreciation of the Rancho kit. It seems like there are a few ways I can go with this, just depends on what I want to spend I guess.

The Rubicon shocks are a step up from the stock Sport ones, but not quite as good as a Rancho 5000X or the 9000's?
Yes, I have the Synergy fixed arms, but on paper the TF arms are a better match for a 4dr spring swap. If you have the ability to properly tighten the jam nuts, the adjustable arms like the Cores would be a great choice. Then you can go right to 5 degrees and be perfect.

Both Rancho's are a BIG step up from Rubicon shocks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can you expand a bit on properly tightening the jam nut?
 

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Yes, I have the Synergy fixed arms, but on paper the TF arms are a better match for a 4dr spring swap. If you have the ability to properly tighten the jam nuts, the adjustable arms like the Cores would be a great choice. Then you can go right to 5 degrees and be perfect.

Both Rancho's are a BIG step up from Rubicon shocks.
Press, when you mention the TF arms, are you talking about the 2.5"-3" lift arms PN # 1252000 ?
 

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IF your running stock springs, that means 18/60 handling is going to about the same. But all 2 doors IMO are a bit on the 'jittery' side using your words, even when properly aligned. To eliminate that get the Griffin Attenuator from Steer Smarts. This is the single best mod you can make to a 2 door, stock or lifted.
Which Steer Smarts Griffin Attenuator would you recommend for a 2017 JK Recon? Thanks for any advice....
 

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Can you expand a bit on properly tightening the jam nut?
When you set the length on a traditional adjustable arm you have to tighten a jam nut to lock it in place. This requires a huge amount of torque and often should be done on a jig to ensure that the joint is straight. I think the best way is to use a jig block between the joint and frame to hold it straight.

This is using a jig block, the big nut you see is the jam nut.



This is building a jig on the work bench to tighten them.



That's the only downside to a control arm with a jam nut. If that is concerning, you can always use the TF Alpine arms that use a pinch system to lock them in place. Then all of the above goes out the window.

Press, when you mention the TF arms, are you talking about the 2.5"-3" lift arms PN # 1252000 ?
Yes, that is perfect on paper for a small lift like a spring swap or a 1.5 TF... I might even put them on a stock Rubicon, just to increase the caster a bit. And @AOR has a deal going on them right now too.
 
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Yes, that is perfect on paper for a small lift like a spring swap or a 1.5 TF... I might even put them on a stock Rubicon, just to increase the caster a bit. And @AOR has a deal going on them right now too.
You betcha. Click here and add to cart for savings. :) @Pressurized Thank you Sir for the mention(s).

Have a fantastic day all.

Allen
 

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Threads like this are why I'm going broke,....and LOVING IT!.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Two questions...I have a Warn M8000 mounted to a Rock Hard plate on the stock bumper. With these springs could I run 33/34's or should I do an official lift? If I replace the shocks with Rancho 5000x I think I have to stay with the stock lengths. If I go with 9000XL's I can go one size up like the Most Common Lift. Should I go longer on the shocks or stick with the stock size?
 

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Two questions...I have a Warn M8000 mounted to a Rock Hard plate on the stock bumper. With these springs could I run 33/34's or should I do an official lift? If I replace the shocks with Rancho 5000x I think I have to stay with the stock lengths. If I go with 9000XL's I can go one size up like the Most Common Lift. Should I go longer on the shocks or stick with the stock size?
The Rancho shocks will basically take you up to 2" of lift for the 26/28s. The 29/30s would be for more of a LCG build and you would have to bumpstop the hell out of it to save your shocks. Go with the 26/28s for either the 5000X of the 9Ks. Add to cart for savings. Also, if you want Rancho shocks, get them soon. The mail-in rebate ends on 8/31/2017.

Depending on the net lift, you should be able to fit a skinny 34. You may consider small spacers to dial it in when you decide to go bigger. As far as Core4x4 adjustable arms go, you have two choices. Tier Two with builder Johnny Joints and Tier Three with forged Johnny Joints. Colors and hardware choices available, as well as free shipping.

My apologies for being all over the board on this thread.

Have a fantastic day!

Allen
 
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