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Hi Everyone,

In summary, bought this 4.0, it ran smooth as ever up until the point I decided to do an oil change. Don't know what PO has been using, but I used a mopar filter and conventional mobil 10w30. After, it began ticking after start-up, and going away once the water temp rose. It does not tick after the warm-up period, say for 45 seconds. It didn't do this prior to the oil change, so I set out to replace the filter with a fram tough guard, and replace the oil with mobil 1 high mileage full syn 10w30. It still made the noise but a little less. I added MMO and it seems to have gotten lighter but I still hear it occasionally. I want to fix this issue before it causes a real problem, but I don't want to try every combo of filter/oil in the process. I have had the MMO in there for about 140 miles. Should I wait longer? I am considering replacing with a WIX filter, and rotella 15w40 conventional, or the T6 5w40 synthetic. Any thoughts? I live in sunny socal, and the lowest temp this vehicle will see is 55 F. I am leaning towards the 15w40.

This is another person's video of what my problem sounds like at startup.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4mUeozPvSQ
 

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the tick is pretty common the 4.0 I have a 2000 and i have it too it comes and goes. I was using valvoline 10w30 in mine and i had some tick but now i changed to castrol 10w30 and i can barely hear it now if at all. I would change your oil to get rid of the mmo then use either castrol or valvoline 10w30 and a wix filter. I would not use 15w40 or 5w40 since that oil is not recommended for our 4.0 engines. These engines are also known for having noisey injectors too. There's guys on here that have the same thing and they have gone thousands of miles with the tick just keep an eye on it.
 

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It could be an exhaust manifold leak. They quiet down once the metal gets hot and expands.
The Fram filter heresy has been refuted by Mr. Branford (see revival of his thread in this TJ General heading).
 

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15w40 HDEO may still have significant zinc content that would more likely clog your catalytic converter. Still might be worth a try especially if your engine burns no oil. 5w40 synthetic would be less likely to clog your cat.
 

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https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

That's a link to a oil film strength study that should clarify which oil you should be using. Valvoline full synthetic high mileage, silver bottle red cap 10w30 for your climate. I use 5w30 in Maine.

The tick is likely a faulty lifter or two. So you can either replace the cam and lifters or go to the best possible oil that will reach the cam and valve train quickly and leave a strong oil film.

15w40 Rotella has a poor film strength and won't lube the valvetrain efficiently during cold starts. I tried Rotella and it made the tick worse.

I've tried several oil and filter combos, and flushes to no avail. The tick will always be there to some degree if the lifter is in fact worn.

The most success I've had is with a product called Turbo Maxx.

http://www.zddpmaxx.com

It's a film strength additive. There's also the Zddp Maxx which can be good in small doses. Zddp is good for a 4L but too much and you'll have other issues like catalytic converters.

The first time I used Turbo Maxx the tick was gone on the first start, and didn't come back for weeks. It blew my mind. The tick is back but barely but that's after a few thousand miles.

So I suggest reading that oil study and use Valvoline full synthetic high mileage 10w30 silver bottle red cap, with 2oz of Turbo Maxx.
 

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Cams and lifters come with cans and cans of worms. Read about racers trying to break in new cams and lifters. Sometimes they wipe out whole sets just trying to break them in. Stock engines wouldn't be so extreme but worth some extra care anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cams and lifters come with cans and cans of worms. Read about racers trying to break in new cams and lifters. Sometimes they wipe out whole sets just trying to break them in. Stock engines wouldn't be so extreme but worth some extra care anyway.


Thank you everyone for your input. I was going to just switch to a 15w40 and see what happens. I'm not convinced they are worn because the sound goes away after a short time. I also don't want to spend a fortune on oil, its going to be my third change in under a month. Question is, is DELO 15w40 okay, or should I do rosella t3?
 

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https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

That's a link to a oil film strength study that should clarify which oil you should be using. Valvoline full synthetic high mileage, silver bottle red cap 10w30 for your climate. I use 5w30 in Maine.

The tick is likely a faulty lifter or two. So you can either replace the cam and lifters or go to the best possible oil that will reach the cam and valve train quickly and leave a strong oil film.

15w40 Rotella has a poor film strength and won't lube the valvetrain efficiently during cold starts. I tried Rotella and it made the tick worse.

I've tried several oil and filter combos, and flushes to no avail. The tick will always be there to some degree if the lifter is in fact worn.

The most success I've had is with a product called Turbo Maxx.

Zddp Maxx & Turbo Maxx

It's a film strength additive. There's also the Zddp Maxx which can be good in small doses. Zddp is good for a 4L but too much and you'll have other issues like catalytic converters.

The first time I used Turbo Maxx the tick was gone on the first start, and didn't come back for weeks. It blew my mind. The tick is back but barely but that's after a few thousand miles.

So I suggest reading that oil study and use Valvoline full synthetic high mileage 10w30 silver bottle red cap, with 2oz of Turbo Maxx.
Based on this link, it looks like the best oil is 5W30 over 10W30 or even 15W40. That makes no sense to me. I feel like putting 5w30 in my wrangler would be suicide.
 

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10w30 is what i would use and it's what jeep recommends for the 4.0 and I'v heard that these kind of additives are just a gimmick the only one i would recommend is dura lube if you decide to do it. I had a truck back in the 90's and i was going through oil like crazy and the engine only had 30,000 miles so i said what the heck i'll try it and i did my engine ran smoother cooler i got better gas mileage and i quit burning oil. But I would just use valvoline or castrol 10w30 conventional oil. My engine has been ticking ever since i bought it last year and knock on wood it's been fine no loss of power or anything
 

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My 05 has the "tick" at start up on occasion.
I switched to Rotella T5 synthetic and it had no effect on the tick.
If it ticks at start up I immediately shut it down and restart. The tick disappears.

98,000 miles. Just going to live with it for now.
 

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I have used a bunch of 10w30 Delo in everything from yard equipment, tractors and vehicles. Used 15w40 in a few. Have no preference for Delo or Rotella.

Started with Rotella because of wet clutches in motorcycles and zinc for old engines.

What was said above about film strength is important. In times past viscosity was the basis of protection. Modern physics/chemistry give us engine protection that was unheard of in the past. Bobistheoilguy.com is an endless supply of information on lubrication.

If it ticks at start up I immediately shut it down and restart. The tick disappears.
I did this exact thing with one of my vehicles. It had hydraulic lash adjusters in the rocker arms and was noisy with anything but 15w40.
 

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Based on this link, it looks like the best oil is 5W30 over 10W30 or even 15W40. That makes no sense to me. I feel like putting 5w30 in my wrangler would be suicide.
No, putting 5-30 in isn't going to kill your engine.
The 4L is an old low tolerance tractor motor, it's going to be noisy, especially after it gets some miles on it.
 

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https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

That's a link to a oil film strength study that should clarify which oil you should be using. Valvoline full synthetic high mileage, silver bottle red cap 10w30 for your climate. I use 5w30 in Maine.

The tick is likely a faulty lifter or two. So you can either replace the cam and lifters or go to the best possible oil that will reach the cam and valve train quickly and leave a strong oil film.

15w40 Rotella has a poor film strength and won't lube the valvetrain efficiently during cold starts. I tried Rotella and it made the tick worse.

I've tried several oil and filter combos, and flushes to no avail. The tick will always be there to some degree if the lifter is in fact worn.

The most success I've had is with a product called Turbo Maxx.

Zddp Maxx & Turbo Maxx

It's a film strength additive. There's also the Zddp Maxx which can be good in small doses. Zddp is good for a 4L but too much and you'll have other issues like catalytic converters.

The first time I used Turbo Maxx the tick was gone on the first start, and didn't come back for weeks. It blew my mind. The tick is back but barely but that's after a few thousand miles.

So I suggest reading that oil study and use Valvoline full synthetic high mileage 10w30 silver bottle red cap, with 2oz of Turbo Maxx.
Thank you everyone for your input. I really appreciate it. So I have been reading this blog more and more and basically have one question. If the writer is preaching for 5w30 oils over 10w30, why do people or specific cars call for anything else? As in, if his tests are showing that the 5w30 oils have the best film strength, then why do people pursue other types of oil?

At this point, I want the tick to go away, but I do not want to damage the engine. The author proves that all of the 15w40 stuff is junk and doesn't do anything for film strength. I know a lot of people use this stuff to quiet down the ticking and other engine noises. I don't mind the tick at all, I just don't want to damage anything.
 

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It could be an exhaust leak, it could also be a lifter that is plugged up a bit. If Marvel Oil quieted it down then I doubt it is an exhaust leak or the oil filter for that matter. It could be a lifter that is hanging up. You could try swapping out the oil filter with a different brand, I'd stay clear of Purolator. I would try adding a pint of Marvel oil about 1,500 miles before you change the oil again. Do not exceed 1 quart of Marvel Oil at any given time.
 

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Thank you everyone for your input. I really appreciate it. So I have been reading this blog more and more and basically have one question. If the writer is preaching for 5w30 oils over 10w30, why do people or specific cars call for anything else? As in, if his tests are showing that the 5w30 oils have the best film strength, then why do people pursue other types of oil?

At this point, I want the tick to go away, but I do not want to damage the engine. The author proves that all of the 15w40 stuff is junk and doesn't do anything for film strength. I know a lot of people use this stuff to quiet down the ticking and other engine noises. I don't mind the tick at all, I just don't want to damage anything.
There is all types of reasons why different weights are called for, mpg's would be one of them.
Almost all new vehicles call for 5-20, it helps with fuel consumption because the motors have tight tolerances.
When your tj was made the owners manual called for a 3k change intervals but with recent oil quality improvements that is completely outdated.
Most vehicles have 7-10k change intervals on regular Dino oil these days.
Like I said the 4L is a left over tractor motor, as long as the oIL is changed & maintained at the proper levels it will be fine with 5-30, 10-30 or pretty much whatever weight is ok for your climate.
I do 5k changes ( which is once a year ) using 5-30 supertech & my motor is fine. But again I'm not expecting it to be quite, either.
 

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using 5-30 supertech & my motor is fine.
I've used a bunch of Supertech oil and it was fine. Comes in a 5qt container for the price of a 4qt container.

Oil threads are notoriously hyperbolic and opinionated. I like the typical story about "that oil gets black too quick". Means it is cleaning your engine just like it is supposed to do. Floats the ook so the filter can get it.
 

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https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

That's a link to a oil film strength study that should clarify which oil you should be using. Valvoline full synthetic high mileage, silver bottle red cap 10w30 for your climate. I use 5w30 in Maine.

The tick is likely a faulty lifter or two. So you can either replace the cam and lifters or go to the best possible oil that will reach the cam and valve train quickly and leave a strong oil film.

15w40 Rotella has a poor film strength and won't lube the valvetrain efficiently during cold starts. I tried Rotella and it made the tick worse.

I've tried several oil and filter combos, and flushes to no avail. The tick will always be there to some degree if the lifter is in fact worn.

The most success I've had is with a product called Turbo Maxx.

Zddp Maxx & Turbo Maxx

It's a film strength additive. There's also the Zddp Maxx which can be good in small doses. Zddp is good for a 4L but too much and you'll have other issues like catalytic converters.

The first time I used Turbo Maxx the tick was gone on the first start, and didn't come back for weeks. It blew my mind. The tick is back but barely but that's after a few thousand miles.

So I suggest reading that oil study and use Valvoline full synthetic high mileage 10w30 silver bottle red cap, with 2oz of Turbo Maxx.

Just wanted to update this thread for anyone searching in the future. I was able to make the ticking go entirely away! I put in 5 quarts of valvoline 5w30 synthetic (silver bottle red cap), and 1.5 quarts of mobil 1 0w40 with a large napa 1515 oil filter. After spending hours and hours researching, I came up with this combo and it worked like a charm. The above link was helpful too!
 

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Just wanted to update this thread for anyone searching in the future. I was able to make the ticking go entirely away! I put in 5 quarts of valvoline 5w30 synthetic (silver bottle red cap), and 1.5 quarts of mobil 1 0w40 with a large napa 1515 oil filter. After spending hours and hours researching, I came up with this combo and it worked like a charm. The above link was helpful too!
Keep us updated, I'm willing to give it a try. Can't hurt.
 
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