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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last week the jeep wouldn't start up for me after work. Swapped around the relays under the hood, checked fuses, battery terminals. All good, still wouldn't start. All electrics work, lights, horn, radio, etc... Put the key in and turn, nothing. I can hear a relay click. But that's it. Doesn't even try to turn over.

Ended up having to leave it at work and take an Uber home. Next day, still the same situation. Ended up having it towed to the mechanic, between going to college full time and working 30 hrs a week. I don't have time to hunt down this gremlin. I hate it, but it's my only option right now. Mechanic fiddled with it. Got it to start on a regular basis, and said the Neutral Safety switch is going out.

Now today, same thing happened. No crank, all electrics still work. Finally swapped out the Neutral Safety Switch. Didn't work. I still have a no crank, no start situation.

I've tried shifting between park and neutral several times. Still nothing. Even tried holding the key in Start while moving the shifter. Nothing...

I'm at my wits end with this. This is all on top of the radiator blowing out again, u joints, and heater core all being replaced within the past month. I dont have money to just throw around hoping to find the issue.

Where should I look next??? Forgot to mention. If you jump the starter solenoid with a screwdriver, she starts right up...
 

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Check out ignition the actuator pin. Most likely your problem if you can jump the solenoid.
 

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For just clicks starter does not run first put it in park set brake turn key to on the. jump plus 12 from battery to small terminal on starter solenoid attached to starter

It may start and get you home plus you learn a lot

If starts with 12 to small terminal solenoid the problem is key switch or pin or park neutral or the associated wiring

If still just clicks problem is battery or starter or large battery cables or their connection at one end of the other

Costs nothing takes a minute and rules in or rules half the possible problems
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check out ignition the actuator pin. Most likely your problem if you can jump the solenoid.
Hmm... After looking at sounds right. Annoying but could be the issue. I found another thread on the Actuator Pin, and one of them sounded exactly like my issue.

Lets hope the parts store has one in stock this morning and this is the issue. I don't really have the money to be throwing at random parts hoping to fix the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My morning class was cancelled. So I ran to the parts store to get the actuator pin. Pulled it all apart. The one currently installed is not broken. At least not like the ones in the pictures I've seen. It still has both metal tabs intact.

I also tried starting it by using a screwdriver in the Ignition Switch. Same result. All power, but no crank. Just the usual click from something behind the glovebox.

Where do I go next?? Try changing out the ignition switch??
 

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That is why I said to inspect the actuator tip before buying one. Before throwing more parts & $$ at it do a bit of troubleshooting. You will need a 12v test light. You may need a helper but start by pulling the starter relay & find the terminal #s, usually printed on the side of the relay.

Make a short jumper wire, MAKE SURE THE JEEP IS IN PARK, make sure you have 12v power to terminal 30 (from fuse 6 in the PDC)&jump between the 30 & 87 terminals in the relay socket. That should crank the engine. If you turn the key on & jump it, it should start. Just only touch the terminals long enough to start & pull the jumper so you don't damage the starter by having it engaged with the engine running. If that works you will know the fuse, wiring & battery connections are all good.

If good so far, further test the circuit to find why the relay is not closing. You need to test to see if the 86 or 85 terminal in that socket gets power when you turn the key to start. You will need the helper here. Normally 86 gets power & 85 is ground but sometimes these are reversed so test accordingly. One terminal should be grounded; the other needs power to close the relay so test both. This will tell you if the ignition switch is sending power to the relay. With the key turned to the start position see if either 85 or 86 gets 12v power. If no, the ignition switch or the wire from the switch to the relay is bad. If you are getting power there, then see if the other terminal (85 or 86) is grounded. If no, the park/neutral switch or its wiring is bad.

To sum up see that you are getting power to 30, key to start position power to 86/85 & ground it the other 85/86 slot.

See where that gets you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Had some more time to tinker. Ran the volt meter across the connections. here is what I found.

Battery has 12.43v

The Relay has different numbering than those you posted was getting really confused. Then I had a moment of stupidity and realized the relay had a wiring schematic printed on the side... :banghead:

Terminal 87 to 30 had 12.36v
Terminal 30 to 86 had 12.39v

All others showed zero. I was able to obtain this volt readings with the key on and key off. Not sure if that's normal or not. Electrical really isn't my thing and I'm not so confident in my electrical skills.

Since it had power, I jumped the 30 and 87 connections. Sure enough, she started right up no problem.

I don't have any extra hands around at the moment. But I'll try and do it tonight with the girlfriend and I are both home.
 

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OK, good so far. You can at least drive it that way if needed.

Don’t check for voltage with the terminals jumped. Test it at the terminal slots in the relay socket, relay removed.

When testing for power to the 86/85 terminal with the key in the start position, test light or red meter lead in the terminal slot & the other on the battery (-) post. One of the 2 terminals should be getting power from the ignition switch, just not sure which for your year.

Then using the meter in the Ohm position, check for continuity from the battery (-) to the 85/86 terminal. That will tell you if the neutral switch is good.
 

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It does not matter really since you are checking the ground path from the relay to the neutral/park switch in the trans.

If you have not tested for power to the other terminal with the key in the start position & figured out which is the power & which is the ground between 85 & 86 then you should have the key off & only 1 of them should have continuity to ground & for checking purposes that continuity should go away if you shift the trans out of park or neutral. That would identify which is the ground & the other would need power from the ignition switch. If neither has ground continuity, the park/neutral switch in the trans or its wiring is bad.
 

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12.4 volts means your battery is close to only 50% charged. Have you dropped a "known" good battery in it and tried to start it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Checked the terminals with the key in start. I only get a reading when applying the leads from 86 to the battery. #85 does not give me a reading when the key is turned.

The odd thing though, is I get a reading of 13v on 86 to the battery regardless if the key is in Run, start, or off.

I'm going to double check the ohm readings after work. I feel like I'm doing it wrong. My meter shows a number but it never stablizes. It keeps bouncing around. Like I said, I'm new to electoral gremlin diagnosis.
 

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Using a meter to test for 12v power is not good & can give confusing results. You really need a 12v test light. But for now do this; using the ohm scale, connect 1 lead to the (-) battery post & probe the other at both 85 & 86. See if you can get continuity on either. If yes shift the trans into gear & see if you lose continuity on either terminal. Post results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ended up calling a buddy, who is much more electrical savy than I to help me out. Glad I did. I never would have found the issue. Well, never say never, but it would have taken me a lot longer to figure out.

So we double check everything I did yesterday, ended up with the same results. Getting power to the relay. Checked the Ignition switch. It was getting power as well. Again, tried turning the key and checking for power at the relay socket. Still nothing.

Ended up consulting some wiring schematics for a good hour tracing the wiring around the engine bay. Stumbled across a connector (Connector 104 I believe) on the firewall behind the engine. Found some corroded connections. Cleaned up all the corrosion and she fired right up.

Tested all the electrical connections at the relay socket. Sure enough, getting power in all the right places again.

Just have to put the ignition switch all back together and the project will be done.

Thanks for the help
 

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Glad it worked out. Tracing wiring problems is a process but if you stick with it usually you can identify the problem without spending $$ on parts you don't need. Learning the process is the hard part but I'm sure you learned a lot & having a buddy who can help will definitely speed the process.

Anyway, good job!
 
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