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Discussion Starter #1
I've done a lot of searching and read a lot of old posts... and this helped me understand what I'm working with, what is recommended, and the basic process for getting this done. But I still want to run the pieces that I have picked out by yall. (don't worry I'm not here to talk about gain vs. volume or 2ohm vs 4ohm :D)

I have a 2001 TJ with the built-in sub (which I have taken out of the center console). I have the factory soundbar. I have an aftermarket HU:
Pioneer DEH-1300MP
  • CEA2006 Specs: 14 watts RMS x 4 channels (at 4 ohms, 20Hz-20kHz, 1% THD-N)
  • Continuous Power Output: 22 watts RMS x 4 channels (at 4 ohms, 50Hz-15kHz, 5% THD)
  • Maximum Power Output: 50 watts x 4 channels
First question:
Why do they list CEA2006 specs at 14w RMS but Continuous Power Output @ 22w RMS? Which one does this HU have?

I am planning on purchasing:
  • Select Increments Dash-Pods
  • Polk Audio DB 522 for the fronts
  • Polk Audio DB 652 for the soundbar
Additional questions:
Should I get a new HU to support these speakers?
With or without a new HU, do I need an amp? If so which one is recommended? That is one thing I could not determine based on previous posts.

Thanks in advance!
 

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The CEA2006 specs should be the most accurate. The other specs are mostly there for "Marketing" purposes to make it seem more impressive. Confusing, I know. A new head unit won't put out significantly more power, maybe a few watts if you're lucky but I wouldn't change just for that if you're otherwise happy with it.



You don't "need" an amp unless you have the top off, or want better sound quality, or louder for whatever reason. Most people are fine with just the head unit power. I'm not one of those people. Amp preferences are like speaker preferences and will differ depending on taste, budget, size constraints, etc. I would recommend that you go with a brand that is familiar and reputable. Crutchfield is a good place to start looking.


Make sure your head unit has pre amp outputs. It's not an impossible fix if it doesn't, it's just more work and parts, and you may sacrifice a little in sound quality to convert the existing speaker outputs.



I've been happy with the PPI Ion amps:
iON | Precision Power
...which aren't available at Crutchfield but I like them because they tend to be small, efficient, cheap and reliable. But there are other brands that are good too. Again it's more of a personal preference, but well built amps tend to have less sound differences than different speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! I will get some speakers and see how it sounds. The existing HU does have a 2-channel preamp output, but I'll need to investigate further with Crutchfield support whether this will be sufficient for the speakers I am planning on purchasing since I don't know what a preamp output is for :D
 

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Thanks! I will get some speakers and see how it sounds. The existing HU does have a 2-channel preamp output, but I'll need to investigate further with Crutchfield support whether this will be sufficient for the speakers I am planning on purchasing since I don't know what a preamp output is for :D

A preamp output is a low level output that makes for easy, clean connection to an amp. Think along the lines of home stereo where you have RCA inputs and outputs for easy connections. It's the same kinda deal here. Car stereo preamp outputs typically output 2-6V signal. The other way is to use speaker outputs, (with output MUCH higher) and then you have to use a converter thingy to turn them into RCA outputs but thats a much less desireable way to make it work. Some amps will also take a speaker level input, but it's for convenience and can be noisier. Preamp outputs/inputs are the way to go if you have them.


You have a single pair of preamp outputs. This means it's designed for a 2 channel amp. You can split those outputs using adapters for 4 channel if you want, but then you'll lose your fader control. You could also consider running an amp to your front speakers and then use the deck power to run the rear speakers. This is what I did because I have my rear speakers running at about 10% of the fronts for rear fill only.


Hopefully this helps clear things up a little. Let me know if you have any other questions or if anything was confusing.
 

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do yourself a favor and get the Polk 5252 components for the front and the 6052 for the soundbar. then pick up a alpine ktp-445U. or even better, a 4 ch amp that pushes 100rms per ch. there is NO comparison between 2/3way speakers and components. I have these and run 90rms(ktp445u bridged) to each 5252 and 75rms to each of the the 6052s. sounds AMAZING. I also went with the kicker 10" sub 2ohm getting 500watts rms, weatherproof enclosure. Kenwood 5 channel Marine amp.
 
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