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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I have been searching and reading, and I didn't find an answer to my current situation, and need help.

I have a 2002 Wrangler Sport 4.0 with a manual transmission (NV3550). A new clutch installed in 2011 (i bought her in 2012). She was running fine, until last month, I couldn't get her into gear, so I drained the transmission fluid, filled her up with Royal Purple Syncomesh and she improved considerably. However after that she started making noise when I pushed the clutch pedal down, three weeks later, not I can not shift into gear while the engine is running.

With the engine off, she slips into every gear (and reverse), both with the clutch down and without.

If I start the Jeep with it in first gear, or reverse engaged, she moves. When I try to hold her back from moving by applying the brake, the clutch makes a loud noise.

It feels like what ever is supposed to separate the clutch and the flywheel, isn't pushing them apart.

I replaced the master and slave cylinder last night (bench bled the whole unit), and it still won't shift into gear while running.

Any help is appreciated.

-Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So this is something that will require opening up the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys, I have worked on cars for a while, suspension, gas tanks, engine removals, but I'm new-ish to Wranglers what kind of time are we looking at to drop and break open the bell housing, a weekend? Do I need a lift, or will jack stands work?

Also, should I buy a whole new clutch kit, or just the release bearing? And, while I have things apart, is there other maintenance I should do, like drive shaft bearings?
 

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If you have access to a transmission jack then that will help. Otherwise I placed a jack under the middle part of the tranny and then I figured out that if I ran a ratchet strap around the transmission up through the jeep to the trusses in my barn. The tranny balance perfectly on the strap. This helps a lot when your trying to line things back up.
 

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Thanks guys, I have worked on cars for a while, suspension, gas tanks, engine removals, but I'm new-ish to Wranglers what kind of time are we looking at to drop and break open the bell housing, a weekend? Do I need a lift, or will jack stands work?

Also, should I buy a whole new clutch kit, or just the release bearing? And, while I have things apart, is there other maintenance I should do, like drive shaft bearings?
I would order a Luk clutch kit If it's a 4.0L - 97 1997 Jeep Wrangler Clutch Kit - Clutch - Exedy, LUK, Rhino Pac, Sachs, Valeo - PartsGeek They also have them for the 2.5L for about $73.

If you have help and this is your first time it will probably take 7 or 8 hours. This video may help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIXhdAG3qaE
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the info. The video is great! Any seals I should replace, and should I get a new flywheel too?
 

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How many miles on your Jeep? If your RMS is leaking now would be the ideal time to replace it, but if it's not leaking I wouldn't worry about it. RMS can be done without removing the transmission, but definitely easier when not in the way.

I'd make the call on the flywheel after you pull the tranny. If it looks fine then you can scuff & clean with emery cloth or sandpaper. Just don't have it resurfaced. They're dome shaped.
 

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I disagree on RMS replacement. There is really no connection between the jobs on the 4.0L. The oil pan has to come off either way. Make sure you have the tools to do the pilot bearing though while you are in there.

Also, I have read many posts describing the slight dome shape of the Jeep flywheel. Does anyone know the "engineering reason" for it. Most cars flywheels are flat.
 

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Yes the oil pan has to come off, but with the tranny out you shouldn't have to remove the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes the oil pan has to come off, but with the tranny out you shouldn't have to remove the exhaust.

I wish I thought about that last year. I dropped my exhaust in order to replace my oil pan. So everything should still be relatively rust free.

Speaking of leaks. where would gear oil be leaking from? I suspect a transmission seal? I've had a small leak for the past year, a couple drips hear and there, but I think the belly pan holds/hides the true amount.
 

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Don't automatically assume that you have a RMS leak. If you have drips on the bottom of your bell housing it could be a rms, but it could also be a valve cover gasket leaking and running down the back of the engine or an input seal on the transmission. Check and see if there is oil build up on the back of the engine below the valve cover.

I agree with Blackhawk36 that it's just as easy to change a rms independently of pulling the transmission. If you're not pulling the flywheel, there is no better access, and the collector to exhaust is only two bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, the leaking fluid is definably gear oil (distinct smell). Also, the drips fall into the belly pan, then drip out from there, so it's not the bell housing.

I'll try to get some pictures over the weekend. And maybe some video of the problem with the shifting as well.

Thanks again,

-Jim
 
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