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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Vehicle won't go into gear. Have to turn it off and then it will work. That said, clutch slips right now so difficult to go uphill even in driveway.

Fluid is topped off, but clutch is noisy though pedal goes up and down fairly easily outside of the noisy part. The big issue it not going in gear or not easily.

Is this a clutch or hydaulics issue on these?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So, I guess if I can get it in gear, the hydraulics are ok and it seems the clutch is fried based on what I have been able to determine.

That said, there is a nice tutorial here or on Jeep forum. Problem is with the Photobucket mess, the pictures are all gone. Anyone know of a good site to read over to get an idea what is involved?
 

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It does sound like the clutch needs attention. I used this site to help when I did mine a few months ago as well as a few threads (can't remember the threads) https://www.4x4xplor.com/clutch.html

I have an 04 too. I unfortunately didn't take too many pictures when I did mine. But if you have any issues I'll try to help. Oh and get the luk clutch kit and you'll need a E-12 torx socket. And flex sockets and extensions to make things easier
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you, Sir, for the encouragement and your offer. I might just take you up on it as I'm sure there will be lots of questions! :)
 

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I have a 2002 and those are the same symptoms I had. It's the clutch. You will also need a lot of extensions to get the top two bell housing bolts. 4 feet worked pretty well for me.
 

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I am in the middle of a clutch swap. TOB and pilot bearing were toast. Some tips; buy or rent a trans jack. Using a floor jack sucks. Harbor Freight sells one for 100, well worth it. Online you can find a factory service manual to give you torque specs and other useful info. Take your time and make sure to disconnect all the sensor plugs. Remove the shifter and cover to make easier access to the top of the trans and plugs. The hardest bolts to remove are at the top of the bellhousing. Some long extensions (Harbor Freight) helps as does lowering the trans to gain access.

A compete Luk clutch kit on Amazon runs about 145. Good idea to replace the pivot ball spring, maybe the pivot ball if needed. Rear main seal is accessible too while you are there.

It's not all that bad, just take your time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for the information. We got the clutch and the springs, Luk kit, all from Amazon. So that's all here.

I figured we'd need the transmission jack and looked at the prices. My local shop told me that they would take $230 or thereabouts for the job. The dilemma is now, if I buy the jack, it would cost me $130 or so more than doing it myself. Not sure of the rest of the analysis. But, on the upside, I'd have a tranny jack though don't know how often I'd use it. I'd have the experience, of course, gained from doing the job. I'd also have the time to do it and getting under there with all those issues since I don't have a lift.
 

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Finished mine yesterday. The 100 dollar Harbor Freight jack worked but wasn't ideal. It just didn't tilt enough to match the angle of the engine so it took a little work to get it in. But I was able to do it all on my own so it is certainly doable. If you get the 100 jack I suggest lubing the lift screw liberally and running it up and down several times to break it in. It is pretty tight when new and lets face it, a cheap made in China item. Other than that, it was well worth the 100.
 
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