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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2005 Wrangler Rocky Mountain Edition. I recently installed a rebuilt motor, clutch, heater core, and transfer case. My previous motor was destroyed by a faulty Oil Pump drive. Everything is working well now except that first thing in the morning it throws a P0340 immediately upon starting from cold. I'm in Colorado so the morning lately have been below freezing.

While the CEL is on the Jeep drives ok but in "limp mode" (cut off at higher revs). The strange thing is that as soon as the engine reaches operating temp I can clear the code using my reader and it stays clear all day. On one morning when it was unseasonably warm overnight I started the morning without the code at all but for the most part it returns faithfully each morning.

I have replaced the plugs, the camshaft position sensor (twice), and the crankshaft position sensor. I've checked the ground connection at both sensors and the speedo sensor and it seems strong. What could possibly cause this code to appear every morning? As I understand it, the camshaft position sensor isn't even used until the Jepp is warm and in "closed loop" operation. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update:

Today the weather is nice and mild. I cleared the P0340 as usual this morning. During my lunch break I got a CEL and found a P0153/P0133 (02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response - Bank 2 and 1 Sensors 1). Engine still runs OK and no P0340 was thrown.

Could faulty 02 sensors cause issues up/downstream on that harness? I've replaced just about everything else along that line. Does it make sense to go ahead and replace the 02 sensors?
 

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There have been many reports of problems with the Crown/Dorman sensors so if you have replaced the OPDA with either & are using other than OEM sensors that may be the problem. Here are some links that have more info. The most common code is P0344 which is intermittent loss of signal. P0340 is no signal but could still be related. One link refers to the O2 codes you are seeing & apparently changing the sensor fixed it but you might read on to be sure.

2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 330 - JeepForum.com

There are 2 more links posted in this one at post 7.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/more-06-wrangler-issues-1493209.html

In one, the cam/crank difference he has the same issue where after it warmed up the code/limp mode would go away. He ended up getting the cam replaced but guessing you already did that with the engine rebuild but worth reading, I think.

If you happen to have the original cam sensor from the failed OPDA I would try that before anything else & if not try an OEM sensor if you have not already done that.


I don't think the O2 sensors are the problem so would not replace them until trying other things.

Also be sure the OPDA is timed correctly even though that code is not normally related to it being off, usually you would get a P0016, but would be good to check it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply. I did replace the ODPA/CPS with a Dorman unit. I replaced it when the engine started knocking on the old engine but I was too late. As I recall, there where no CPS code thrown at that time - just a horrible knocking sound.

I installed a crate rebuild and reused the new Dorman OPDA unit. Here's where it gets weird. I enlisted some help getting the engine in and when we were adjusting the timing at the CPS I was under the car looking at the timing notch. He asked how far off the mark was and I told him it was exactly 180 degrees from the timing marker. He said that was fine because 180 degrees and 0 degrees were the same. To my astonishment, the thing fired up and after a few initial codes computer cleared and the idle settled in pretty well.

When I put the engine in a also changed out the clutch. The cheap throw-out bearing that came with the kit lasted me about 600 or 700 miles before it started screaming. This time I pulled the transmission back to get to the bearing and replace it. When I did that, I made the mistake of not taking out CKP (crankshaft position sensor). Since I did it solo in my driveway, I was a little rough (OK. I was a lot rough) with the #$%@#$ transmission. Well, when I started it up it ran like hell and threw a CKP code. I pulled the CKP and it was mangled. I was surprised that it started like that. I replaced it and since then I've been fighting ignition codes.

Like you, I think the O2 sensor issue is just a symptom of a fault - wiring or otherwise - on that circuit. I was pretty rough with the o2 sensors too but they show a reading on my scanner OK. I've just about ruled out the possibility of a wiring short given the correlation with the ambient temperature. For instance, today was warm in Denver and it didn't throw a P0344 code in the morning - just the o2 code.

I'll take a look at the links you provided and let the forum know what I find.

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I forgot to mention that the codes stopped after a while with the Dorman sensor. Then I went to my local Jeep guys and had them dial in top dead center for me and readjust the CPS. Since then It's been throwing the codes. I replaced the sensor with another aftermarket brand and no luck.
 

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I would suggest a Mopar sensor if the aftermarket CPS is throwing codes. That has fixed the issue for most.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK. So I found the old OPDA and reinstalled the OEM sensor to the new unit. The camshaft position sensor I am replacing is the BWD brand non-OEM. I'll report on any changes..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've just had a lovely code free day. It's getting warmer so it's difficult to say for sure but it looks like the non-OEM Dorman and BWD brand cam position sensors were the culprit after all.

It's ironic that the sensor from the OPDA that started all of this was the final solution. Thanks guys! I'll post any updates to keep this thread helpful.
 

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Buchenberg,

Did your P Codes come back? I'm having a similar situation. Anytime the ECT is below 89 degrees I get P0340 or P0344 and the engine cuts out at 2300 RPM. I can let the engine idle until it reaches 210-212 degrees, clear the codes, and everything is fine until the temp drops below 89 degrees. I replaced the OPDA, put on a factory CPS, new timing chain and gears and the dealership had it 3 to 4 times and cannot figure it out. I recently took it to a small shop that did my timing chain kit and he said that through his testing of the wiring system and the computer, he thinks the computer is faulty. I'm always very leery when someones points at the computer, because it's almost never the computer. I'm just wondering if you ever solved your issue. This has been going on for months and I'm going nuts.
 

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Just FYI, I trust the guy at the small shop, I just want to get some other input/ideas before I drop the $$$ on a new or reworked PCM.
 

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Hey, everyone,

I wanted to come back to this thread to report my own personal experience with a Crown Automotive OPDA replacement.

I replaced mine shortly after purchasing my 2006 LJ in June, after the multiple threads I read about the OEM unit's problems. Since then, I had put on about 7,500 to 8,000 additional miles before I started getting P0340 and P0344 codes. Symptoms were long crank times (didn't matter if cold or hot - but happened much more frequently after I had been driving and got to normal operating temp.), and bogging at about 2,300 RPM and especially under a "load" (uphill trying to pass). I've avoided encountering the bogging by "easing" up to speed on the highway; but it was still a bummer knowing that I couldn't stomp on the throttle when I've needed to.

At the suggestion of many others, I finally replaced the sensor that came with the Crown OPDA unit with the original one. I had kept the original OPDA assembly in a box in the garage. The bogging went away instantly, as evidenced by a test drive during which I accelerated quickly after all stops. The CEL has not come back.

I've read a few other posts where some people had difficulty removing the old sensor from the old OPDA assembly. I stuck my old OPDA in a vice, and used careful but strong taps with a punch/screwdriver from the shaft side, between the mounting screw and the sensor, to free it. The plastic of the harness did not get damaged beyond a few score marks where my punch contacted it.

If you're running your new OPDA (Dorman or Crown or otherwise) WITHOUT the old sensor, I would strongly consider swapping it out. :thumb:

Thanks, guys.
 

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I ended up installing a Crown OPDA and it didn't fix the issue. Then I installed a "new" factory sensor and that didn't work either. Through some discussion with others having the same issues, we seemed to have narrowed it down to a sensor air gap issue. Others seem to come up with different gaps. Not sure if the inconsistency lies with the sensors or the mounting location on different OPDA's. You would think that the gap would be standard across the board, but it is not. For me, the gap was substantially different between the Crown sensor and the "new" factory sensor. The consensus is that if you ever have to replace your OPDA, DO NOT throw out the stock sensor. It seems like those that changed just the OPDA and retained the stock sensor have not had issues. Anyway, I started playing with washers to adjust the air gap between the sensor and the tone wheel. After a few applications, I finally found a gap that worked. Strange thing is that the sensor ended up being so far back that it no longer protrudes into the OPDA. It is actually counter-sunk. That seemed to fix the issue. I've been driving it for a while with no issues. Even on some pretty cold mornings that would normally set off the codes. Dooshene from another forum posted that he found a sensor that fixed his issue. He had even tried the "new" factory one too, and it didn't work for him either. Thanks to Dooshene and Rubi4MyMrs for posting the info about the sensor. My issue was fixed with the washers, but since this sensor was only $20, I figured I'd give it a shot. I bought it and installed it with no washers and it has been working fine for a while now. Issue may be fixed.

The one is used is:
Jeep
P#: CAM103-OE
Vendor: AIP Electronics
$20.00

Found on Amazon
 

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I ended up installing a Crown OPDA and it didn't fix the issue. Then I installed a "new" factory sensor and that didn't work either. Through some discussion with others having the same issues, we seemed to have narrowed it down to a sensor air gap issue. Others seem to come up with different gaps. Not sure if the inconsistency lies with the sensors or the mounting location on different OPDA's. You would think that the gap would be standard across the board, but it is not. For me, the gap was substantially different between the Crown sensor and the "new" factory sensor. The consensus is that if you ever have to replace your OPDA, DO NOT throw out the stock sensor. It seems like those that changed just the OPDA and retained the stock sensor have not had issues. Anyway, I started playing with washers to adjust the air gap between the sensor and the tone wheel. After a few applications, I finally found a gap that worked. Strange thing is that the sensor ended up being so far back that it no longer protrudes into the OPDA. It is actually counter-sunk. That seemed to fix the issue. I've been driving it for a while with no issues. Even on some pretty cold mornings that would normally set off the codes. Dooshene from another forum posted that he found a sensor that fixed his issue. He had even tried the "new" factory one too, and it didn't work for him either. Thanks to Dooshene and Rubi4MyMrs for posting the info about the sensor. My issue was fixed with the washers, but since this sensor was only $20, I figured I'd give it a shot. I bought it and installed it with no washers and it has been working fine for a while now. Issue may be fixed.

The one is used is:
Jeep
P#: CAM103-OE
Vendor: AIP Electronics
$20.00

Found on Amazon
This part is currently not available on Amazon or the manufacturer website. You must have caused a run on them. Hopefully it's back soon.
 

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Any other thoughts or updated status?

I have the p0344 error and in Limp Mode. It will not let me clear the code. Already replaced the CPS with an OEM unit.

Still on the original OPDA at 112k miles. This is a 2006.
 

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I ended up installing a Crown OPDA and it didn't fix the issue. Then I installed a "new" factory sensor and that didn't work either. Through some discussion with others having the same issues, we seemed to have narrowed it down to a sensor air gap issue. Others seem to come up with different gaps. Not sure if the inconsistency lies with the sensors or the mounting location on different OPDA's. You would think that the gap would be standard across the board, but it is not. For me, the gap was substantially different between the Crown sensor and the "new" factory sensor. The consensus is that if you ever have to replace your OPDA, DO NOT throw out the stock sensor. It seems like those that changed just the OPDA and retained the stock sensor have not had issues. Anyway, I started playing with washers to adjust the air gap between the sensor and the tone wheel. After a few applications, I finally found a gap that worked. Strange thing is that the sensor ended up being so far back that it no longer protrudes into the OPDA. It is actually counter-sunk. That seemed to fix the issue. I've been driving it for a while with no issues. Even on some pretty cold mornings that would normally set off the codes. Dooshene from another forum posted that he found a sensor that fixed his issue. He had even tried the "new" factory one too, and it didn't work for him either. Thanks to Dooshene and Rubi4MyMrs for posting the info about the sensor. My issue was fixed with the washers, but since this sensor was only $20, I figured I'd give it a shot. I bought it and installed it with no washers and it has been working fine for a while now. Issue may be fixed.

The one is used is:
Jeep
P#: CAM103-OE
Vendor: AIP Electronics
$20.00

Found on Amazon
This makes sense. I installed the Crown OPDA back in March and it ran fine with the sensor that came with it for about 2 months before it started throwing codes. I replaced it with a Mopar sensor and it immediately started throwing O2 codes. I pulled the Mopar sensor and went back to the one that came with the Crown unit and it would last a week before throwing codes. I also believe this may have been compounded with my PCM going bad so when my new PCM comes in I will put the Mopar sensor back in to see if that was the problem and if it throws codes with the new PCM then I will try the washer thing. Will keep yall posted.
 
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