Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is a 2006 LJ with 4.0 automatic

I was driving home from work going 45 mph and the engine just cut off, coasted to a side street. Have lights on my dash (no key, fuel light, seat belt and engine light) but gauges show nothing, engine would not crank not even a sound.
Had it towed home.

dash (2).jpg

Items checked:
Battery - 13.4v
Grounds - found nothing bad
Fuse's good
relays swapped no change

I checked power to my starter solenoid and it did not have any voltage at the starter solenoid from the ignition switch.
I jumped a wire from the battery to the start solenoid and the engine cranks but will not start.

Does the no key light have something to do with this?
Its like when you turn on the ignition its not going through the system tests if that makes any since.

I have read other post about the ignition switch breaking inside, but I was driving down the road and the engine just turned off and all i had were the dash lights mentioned above on.


Any ideas?

I will be checking the ignition switch next.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,585 Posts
Check fuse 22 in the PDC. Use a meter to test even if it looks good.



If it is good go to the ignition switch & see if the red wire at pin 1 has 12v power (there are 3 red wires so get pin 1 which is at one corner). That wire to the ignition switch supplies power to the starter relay as well as several fuses (9-14) in the fuse block behind the glove box. No power there could explain no crank as well as no key on power to the PCM which would affect the gauges not moving.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,992 Posts
^ The SKIM light is on (the key with the slash) however, that by itself would not keep the Jeep from cranking or starting, if it stayed on, the engine would die about 3 seconds after it started.

The fact that the gauges are off although the lights are on is a good indication. You may have a code in the CEL if you have a reader. I would do what Rubi 4 My Mrs says and then let us know the result.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the response, I pulled fuse 22 and checked it with a meter(ohm)
fuse is good.
I then checked the red wire at the top corner, it has 12.29 volts.
Also with the ignition switch on i have power on fuses 9-14 in the glove box

question, doesn't the red wire come from fuse 22?

When i check for power at the starter solenoid with having someone turn the key to start i do not get any power.

Please let me know what else I can check and thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
394 Posts
No power at Starter Control Wire at the Starer while Key in Start Position = Broken Ignition Switch Actuator Pin, Faulty Ignition Switch or Faulty ignition Switch Circuit.

Have you taken a look at the Ignition Switch and Actuator Pin?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,585 Posts
Thanks for the response, I pulled fuse 22 and checked it with a meter(ohm)
fuse is good.
I then checked the red wire at the top corner, it has 12.29 volts.
Also with the ignition switch on i have power on fuses 9-14 in the glove box

question, doesn't the red wire come from fuse 22?

When i check for power at the starter solenoid with having someone turn the key to start i do not get any power.

Please let me know what else I can check and thank you

Yes, fuse 22 powers that (pin 1) red wire. I had you check fuse, then the wire at the switch in case the fuse was good but there was a break in the wire before getting to the switch. Since that fuse/wire, through the switch, powers things needed to both crank the engine & engine & gauge functions needed to start it seemed like the best place to start. Especially since both events apparently happened at the same time.

As noted above, the actuator tip in known to break & keep the starter from engaging but will almost always allow enough movement to at least turn everything else on. From your photo it is apparent that some key function is working since some of the lights are coming on (& I assume go off if you turn the key off).

You can certainly check this by removing the ignition switch & looking at the actuator tip & also turning the switch with a screwdriver to see if the stater will engage & crank the engine. More on this at the link below.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/help-key-wont-turn-to-start-turns-fine-but-not-far-enough-to-actuate-starter-2361609.html#post34327165

While you have the switch off you might check the other 2 red wires to verify they also have 12v power (pins 4 & 9 from fuses 6 & 13 in the PDC).

Then another possibility is maybe the PCM is not getting key on power but think that would keep the various lights from coming on in the cluster so maybe not but easy to check.

Go to the C-1 (black) PCM connector & see if you are getting 12v power at the pink/white wire at either pin 11 or 12 (from fuse 12 in the fuse block) when the key is on. You have an auto trans so should be pin 12.


See if turning the switch manually gets the starter to crank the engine & if you have 12v to pin 12 at the PCM & report back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Sorry it took so long to get back.
I pulled out the ignition switch and actuator, both were good actuator not broken.
Before putting it back in i tried a screwdriver in the switch, same response as with the key no crank.

I also checked the other 2 red wires on the switch and they had 12v

I then checked the c-1 connector at the pink/white wire and had 12 v with key on

I also went through all fuse's and relays again

Is the PCM bad?

Any other ideas on what to check next?

Thanks for your help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,797 Posts
Pcm is not reason for no crank

If you put in neutral or park and jump 12 volts to small terminal on solenoid on starter does it crank
The answer to that question will narrow down the potential causes (but it is NOT the PCM)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts
Pcm is not reason for no crank

If you put in neutral or park and jump 12 volts to small terminal on solenoid on starter does it crank
The answer to that question will narrow down the potential causes (but it is NOT the PCM)
To digger, in the OP he indicated he already jumped the starter and it cranked but didn't start.

To all, as someone else mentioned, the SKIM light on wouldn't prevent a start, but cause a kill about 3 secs after a start.

Fascinating to see how this one gets solved. Maybe some corrosion on some pins in the PCM block connectors?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,797 Posts
Then he just works backwards from starter control wire not complicated or very interesting since we know which circuit is causing no start




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,585 Posts
The fact that is died while driving & will not start does suggest more then just a no crank problem even though the 2 situations (no start & no crank) are not often happening together.

When you turned the ignition switch did the gauges still stay down, as originally shown?



On the later TJs (’05 & ’06) the PCM is involved in the starter relay function. I can’t say whether that would affect the no start, no gauge issue.

From the ignition switch there is a pink/orange wire at pin 6 that goes to the starter relay coil (b5 terminal) & also splices & goes to the PCM (C-1, pin 30). See if that is getting power when you turn the key (or ignition switch) to the start position. Also, the grounding side of the relay coil (terminal b3) needs PCM grounding (possibly when it sees a signal from your automatic trans park/neutral switch) to close the relay & connect 12v from fuse 6 to the yellow/grey wire going to the starter solenoid.

Here are 3 pages from the FSM which show the circuits.

Check for power & grounding as shown. That should help find why it is not cranking. Whether that will also get it to start, I don’t know but if not you can then move on to that issue.
 

Attachments

1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top