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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I couldn't really find anything. So I had to come up with a way to do it without any documentation at all. So hopefully it can help someone out.

First! What was used, and tools.

Products Used:
- PAC-Audio C2R-CHY4
- Pioneer AVIC-8100NEX
- Metra 95-6511 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00133VQWE)
- Metra 40-EU10 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000329HEK) Antenna Adapter

Amazon has the wiring harness, deck adapter, and Antenna adapter for like 65 bucks.

- Soldier Iron
- heat shrink
- Lighter
- 7mm socket
- 8mm socket
- razor blade
- Sawsaw
- 6 in 1 screw driver

First you have to remove the top of the dash. It removes from the rear, I used a flat head driver, and gentily applied pressure in a upward manner. Once it pops off there is a compass module, that you will have to pull the plug on.



Now there is a smaller panel that needs to be removed at the bottom of the console. Again used a flat head screw driver to apply pressure to the top of it. It will then pop off and pull up and out. Then that exposes 2 screws on the bottom, and 2 on the top. One thing that I ran into problems, is you NEED a 7mm hexagon socket. you cannot use any other forms or it will slip and you could strip it out.

This exposes the radio bolt.



You will have to pull the big grey plug first, then you will be able to move the radio, and pull the antenna plug.



This gave me a perfect opprotunity to find out which harness to use. The PAC-Audio harness listed above comes with two different harnesses.

Time to start soldiering the wiring harness.


Make sure you put the heat shrink on the wire before you soldier... Yeah.. done that before!



I like to make the wires parallel with each other, and then twist them around each other, and then soldier them together. Trick is to put some soldier on the iron itself, then touch the wire with the molten soldier, then you can take the soldier and touch the wire. you dont want to over do the soldier. You also have to be quick! You can melt the wire shielding off of the wire.

Most of the wires match up. There were only a few wires that did not match up. There is a blue wire on the PAC side that is for Antenna on, This is not used in the Wrangler, So you will connect blue/white to blue/white on both sides for the AMP turn on.



When your done you get something like this. Yeah, I didn't connect the blue/white wires yet.

Now this is where things got a bit difficult...

There is a metal retainer inside the dash... There are 4 bolts that hold it in, I want to say they were 8mm bolts. There are 2 bolts at the top of the dash, and then two that are pretty hard to get too, and require you to move the harness around to get them out. I'd recommend leaving everything in, and making 3 cuts.

ATTENTION: YOU MUST BE VERY CAREFUL HERE! you have 2 major harnesses you do not want to whoops it... I made 3 cuts. One in the middle at the top. 1 on each side of the metal retaining clip. Now you pull the wiring harnesses through, and then you have access to the bolts at the bottom. Undo those, then undo the top, and you should be able to get in there to remove the 3 pieces. Throw this away right away... After your done here, you wont ever want to look at it.

(Sorry I didn't get pics of this process)



I got the deck in, and I noticed that the middle of the dash was pushing up. I realized that there are 2 guiding plastic peices that try to push up on the radio. I took a razor blade, and cut those tabs out. which solved the issue.

I set the GPS unit right ontop of the radio itself under the top dash board, and also routed the microphone up there as well. The USB port I routed down a bit lower, I have some plans to integrate it a bit better, but haven't gotten there YET..



Quick power on test.


Make sure Apple Car Play works, and music plays.



Things look good! Got the dash back together.



Not a hard job at all. Soldier was the hardest part, but once you get good at it its a pretty simple process, rest of the job was just improvising... which wasn't too bad at all.

If you have any questions, please let me know.

Thanks,

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just wanted to put a heads up in there...

If you have an amplifier... You want to connect the Front left, and right to the REAR leads on the chassis side..

It muxes everything itself, you will loose the ability to use front/rear feeds, all 7 speakers work, just how it works in the JK's There is a communication link between the factory radio, and the amplifier, that allows for front and rear fading..

Just wanted to give everybody a heads up.. I was having a hard time getting navigation to talk, also bluetooth calls, and Apple Carplay phone was not working, because it uses the front speakers.

If you hook it up like I did above, and you have an amplifier, you will not be able to get things to work.

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the write-up. I plan on putting in a 4100nex (or maybe the 4200) and this is helpful.
No problem at all. The wiring harnesses should be identical from the 8100 to the 4100/4200. So this should be able to help you out a bit.

I am completely satisfied with the deck. The only thing that bothers me was the going over the speed limit voice. Disabled that pretty quickly. Hehe. Great deck none the less. Check eBay for pricing. It's usually like 300-400 off. I got the 8100 for 800 shipped.
 

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Regarding the speaker wiring on the PAC C2R-CHY4 wiring adapter (I have the Alpine system in my '16)

The PAC instructions say to wire the front speaker outputs from the headunit to the rear speaker inputs on the chassis connector.

SO.......are the rear speaker outputs from the headunit not connected to anything?

Do you hookup the front speaker outputs from the headunit to the front speaker inputs AND rear speaker inputs on the chassis connector? Or only to the rear speaker inputs?

Thanks!

-steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Regarding the speaker wiring on the PAC C2R-CHY4 wiring adapter (I have the Alpine system in my '16)

The PAC instructions say to wire the front speaker outputs from the headunit to the rear speaker inputs on the chassis connector.

SO.......are the rear speaker outputs from the headunit not connected to anything?

Do you hookup the front speaker outputs from the headunit to the front speaker inputs AND rear speaker inputs on the chassis connector? Or only to the rear speaker inputs?

Thanks!

-steve
I apologize for not seeing this. That is correct.. If you have the Infinity system, than the front leads will not do anything on the chassis side, only the rear leads supply inputs to all 7 channels (4 fronts, 2 rears, and the sub).

So you want to hook the head unit fronts up to the chassis rear. I just put heat shrink caps over my rears, and left them disconnected. Seemed to work very well for me. But you only really notice when you have bluetooth on, because on bluetooth normally only shoots out of the front speakers and not the rear. With this, it will hit all 7 speakers.

If you do not have the Infinity system, then you wire it up normally.. Fronts to fronts, rears to rears. But the Infinity system has its own amp and stuff, and there is a connection for fading from the sterio to the amplifier...

Thanks,

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the pix. Seems I got the wiring correct but I have to pull out that bracket at the back.
Yeah... I got to right where you were, and was like... dang! how did they get this in there... I could have removed the entire dash, but didn't want to deal with that at all, which is why I made 3 cuts, So I could pull it out of there in pieces...

I used a sawsaw to do my 3 cuts, but looking over it again, I recently picked up a Dewalt Osclating saw.
DCS355D1 20V MAX* XR Cordless Oscillating Multi-Tool Kit | DEWALT Tools

I would have used this instead because of the shorter throws.

Thanks,

Michael
 

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I was going to put a cutting wheel on the Dremel. Somebody said they got it out complete but I took about an hour. Don't know why someone would do that. Never gonna use it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was going to put a cutting wheel on the Dremel. Somebody said they got it out complete but I took about an hour. Don't know why someone would do that. Never gonna use it again.

Yeah Exactly! I just made a few cuts, and just tore it out... I threw it away with the stock stereo.. Dremel should work fine.. You may go through a few cutting discs. It's like 1/16" - 1/8" steel.. But yeah there are 4 bolts that hold that in, and then you just remove the pieces.
 

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Two in the top and two inside the cavity. Got those out. There seems to be two wiring harnesses attached to it at the bottom. Just clip the zip ties and leave them?
 

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Only went through one. Now the auto eq will not work. Do I need a parking brake bypass? What I have read seems to point in that direction. Also went with a Metra clone for the 95-6511 kit and had to set the radio back about a half an inch to get the cover over the radio. Ordered a new Metra and hope that solves the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Only went through one. Now the auto eq will not work. Do I need a parking brake bypass? What I have read seems to point in that direction. Also went with a Metra clone for the 95-6511 kit and had to set the radio back about a half an inch to get the cover over the radio. Ordered a new Metra and hope that solves the problem.
What do you mean the auto eq? The Equalizer? Are you talking about being able to fade left to right, front to rear? Or do you mean being able to change the frequency levels?

Thanks,
 

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What do you mean the auto eq? The Equalizer? Are you talking about being able to fade left to right, front to rear? Or do you mean being able to change the frequency levels?

Thanks,
There is a RTA with auto adjustment for the equilizer built in. The mic jack is in the back. It seems that I did not hook up the ground properly to access that and it is only available if the deck picks up the ground from the parking brake being engaged. The DVD player probably won't show a picture but I haven't checked it yet. There are lock-pic/bypass tools available. I have one and intend to install it next Friday when I install the XM box. Even without having set that up and just using the stock "powerful" preset, I am really impressed with the sound and the fact that I can turn it up louder than I can stand and it's still very clean with no noticeable distortion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
There is a RTA with auto adjustment for the equilizer built in. The mic jack is in the back. It seems that I did not hook up the ground properly to access that and it is only available if the deck picks up the ground from the parking brake being engaged. The DVD player probably won't show a picture but I haven't checked it yet. There are lock-pic/bypass tools available. I have one and intend to install it next Friday when I install the XM box. Even without having set that up and just using the stock "powerful" preset, I am really impressed with the sound and the fact that I can turn it up louder than I can stand and it's still very clean with no noticeable distortion.
The stereo itself has one of those ports. But I do not believe that it will work with the upgrade unless you bypass your amplifier completely.

What year do you have and model? Rubicon? Stereo upgrade, etc etc? I'd like to do a bit of research on it.

As for the DVD player, I have not tried it out yet.. There is a brake sensor that is wired into the vehicles, CANBUS IIRC.. You should be ok, if you hooked that up correctly.

Over all I am very happy with it as well... I may go a bit further and upgrade the speakers in the Jeep and wire them directly to the deck to allow for more control over the Infinty system that comes from Jeep. But same results. I put it on powerful, and sounds great, just enough bass, but not undesirable.
 

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The stereo itself has one of those ports. But I do not believe that it will work with the upgrade unless you bypass your amplifier completely.

What year do you have and model? Rubicon? Stereo upgrade, etc etc? I'd like to do a bit of research on it.

As for the DVD player, I have not tried it out yet.. There is a brake sensor that is wired into the vehicles, CANBUS IIRC.. You should be ok, if you hooked that up correctly.

Over all I am very happy with it as well... I may go a bit further and upgrade the speakers in the Jeep and wire them directly to the deck to allow for more control over the Infinty system that comes from Jeep. But same results. I put it on powerful, and sounds great, just enough bass, but not undesirable.
I have a 2009 Rubicon. It came with the RER 730N. Nice deck and state of the art in 2009. First year that the 730N could read iTunes files. Bought the BT mic and the iPod adapter cable and went back from a 6plus to a 64gb 4S so that it would work. Also did the tweeter mod and the speaker mod. Tried the 30 pin to lightning adapter to see if a lightning plug iPhone would work and did nothing but charge the phone. That was complete by last summer. So I started looking at new radios last month and the touch screen died on the 730 and I saw that somebody got $200 for it and the ball starts rolling. I sold the iPod cable, the 4S, the BT mic, the 730N, and the GPS antenna and got enough off of eBay to buy a refurb Pioneer AVH-X2700BS, the canbus adapter and the Metra install adapters and my net price was zero. I also got the Rugged Ridge 13551.17 Dash Multi-Mount Phone Kit to hold the iPhone 6S. The quality of the sound is stunning. I am not an audiophile freak but I hated trying to listen to XM on the factory radios because the signal was so heavily compressed.

As far as the bypass installed I will report on the RTA and see if it works. I was really interested in that feature because of the last stereo install I did on my 2005 TJ that I owned before this one. I swapped in an Alpine deck with the powerpack 445 amp. I also added a Kicker mono amp and replaced the factory sub with a 6" Kicker in the console and never could get it to sound right.
 

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And btw auto eq was a bust. Finally got it to work and preset "powerful" sounded much better so I turned off. If we could use the fader it might have helped but Chrysler built that "feature" in to the canbus. Oh well. Stil, very happy with the unit. Next is to get an xm tuner and trim the mounting plates.
 

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Fast forward a year and did the Sub mod by adding the pioneer 8" sub to the system. Still sounds great. Only issue is that the Pioneer decks with the fixed screen sit back from the dash by about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Not a big deal but it just doesn't look right. Thinking of moving up to a 4100nex to get Carplay but just don't have the extra $400 right now to replace something that works fine now.
 
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