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See if the Dealer will give you a 90 day warranty on it.
See if the Dealer will give you a 90 day warranty on it.
2010 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 102K miles
Hello,
New to the Jeep scene and my family and I are looking forward to getting into it. We are looking to possibly purchase a 2010 Wrangler Sahara with 102k miles from a dealership. From what I have researched about Jeeps, that as long as they are well maintained, you don't need to worry about the miles due to their durability. Its an one owner vehicle that has been serviced regularly, routine maintenance, at a Jeep dealership (CarFax). Clean title. Its and AZ vehicle. This will be used as a family vehicle and just want to make sure that I won't be having to take it to the shop here soon or regularly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Matt
New to the Jeep scene and my family and I are looking forward to getting into it. We are looking to possibly purchase a 2010 Wrangler Sahara with 102k miles from a dealership. From what I have researched about Jeeps, that as long as they are well maintained, you don't need to worry about the miles due to their durability. Its an one owner vehicle that has been serviced regularly, routine maintenance, at a Jeep dealership (CarFax). Clean title. Its and AZ vehicle. This will be used as a family vehicle and just want to make sure that I won't be having to take it to the shop here soon or regularly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Matt
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Thank you! I will ask, appreciate feedbackWelcome to the Forum!
See if the Dealer will give you a 90 day warranty on it.
That has the 3.8 motor which will run a good long time, as long as you are good with not getting anywhere in a hurry. They have a reputation of being sluggish and burning a touch of oil, but living a long time. By contrast, the 3.6 starting in 2012 has lots of issues, but has near half again as much horsepower, so, tradoffs. Like @vanhalo asked, is it stock?
24G Customer Preferred Order Selection Pkg, 3.73 Axle Ratio, 3.8L Ohv 12-Valve Smpi V6 Engine, 4-Speed Automatic Transmission, 6W9 Order Code, Anti-Spin Rear Differential, P255/70R18 On/Off-Road Owl Tires
24G Customer Preferred Order Selection Pkg, 3.73 Axle Ratio, 3.8L Ohv 12-Valve Smpi V6 Engine, 4-Speed Automatic Transmission, 6W9 Order Code, Anti-Spin Rear Differential, P255/70R18 On/Off-Road Owl TiresThat has the 3.8 motor which will run a good long time, as long as you are good with not getting anywhere in a hurry. They have a reputation of being sluggish and burning a touch of oil, but living a long time. By contrast, the 3.6 starting in 2012 has lots of issues, but has near half again as much horsepower, so, tradoffs. Like @vanhalo asked, is it stock?
You say it’s been serviced regularly…does that mean oil changes?
I would want to know:
Have the transmission, transfer case and differential fluids been changed regularly?
Have the spark plugs, plenum gaskets and PCV valve been changed? (That’s a 100,000 mile service).
How about the thermostat and radiator?
What about the battery and how old are the tires tires?
If those things have been documented and it’s a price you can afford, it may be a great vehicle for you. If they don’t know about that list above, you could be staring at a grand or more in general maintenance with labor.
some of that you can do yourself, but know that half the plugs are covered up by the intake and the PCV valve can be difficult to access.
best of luck. Let us know how it goes!
Chris
I would want to know:
Have the transmission, transfer case and differential fluids been changed regularly?
Have the spark plugs, plenum gaskets and PCV valve been changed? (That’s a 100,000 mile service).
How about the thermostat and radiator?
What about the battery and how old are the tires tires?
If those things have been documented and it’s a price you can afford, it may be a great vehicle for you. If they don’t know about that list above, you could be staring at a grand or more in general maintenance with labor.
some of that you can do yourself, but know that half the plugs are covered up by the intake and the PCV valve can be difficult to access.
best of luck. Let us know how it goes!
Chris
Appreciate the advice, thank youYou say it’s been serviced regularly…does that mean oil changes?
I would want to know:
Have the transmission, transfer case and differential fluids been changed regularly?
Have the spark plugs, plenum gaskets and PCV valve been changed? (That’s a 100,000 mile service).
How about the thermostat and radiator?
What about the battery and how old are the tires tires?
If those things have been documented and it’s a price you can afford, it may be a great vehicle for you. If they don’t know about that list above, you could be staring at a grand or more in general maintenance with labor.
some of that you can do yourself, but know that half the plugs are covered up by the intake and the PCV valve can be difficult to access.
best of luck. Let us know how it goes!
Chris
Well maintained, the 3.8L will last a good long while - I have the same in my 08, and it now sits north of 200,000, and there are some on here with a lot more on theirs.
I purchased an 08 with 130000 with the 3.8. Never off road, always taken care of, still runs good. Does burn some oil so I went up to 10w-30w and it slowed that down. After I got it I put all new fluids in it, new plugs and air cleaner. For me its my starting point. Now I know when to change and no guessing. Then it's just fix things as they go. But that little 3.8 has taken me down and up some pretty nasty trails. I'm not in a rush to get anywhere, so really don't care how fast it goes on the highway. I have other cars for speed....This is my 4x4 and toy...So go for it and have fun........stock they go anywhere....
I have an 2008 and a 2010. Purchased both about 9-10 years old with 100k miles. I don't regret it, but you WILL have minor repairs constantly. Recommend running some motor treatment (SeaFoam, or equivalent) thru your oil regularly to break down oil sludge. Since they burn oil, they've all inevitably run a little low here and there which leads to higher temps and sludge buildup, presenting usually first as valve noise. Also, both of mine at 12-13 years old and ~150k miles had torque converter failures presenting as shudder. Lastly, valve cover gaskets and front crankshaft seals are the leading causes of oil loss. Look for evidence and have the dealer replace them now if they're leaking. Something to think about.Hello, New to the Jeep scene and my family and I are looking forward to getting into it. We are looking to possibly purchase a 2010 Wrangler Sahara with 102k miles from a dealership. From what I have researched about Jeeps, that as long as they are well maintained, you don't need to worry about the miles due to their durability. Its an one owner vehicle that has been serviced regularly, routine maintenance, at a Jeep dealership (CarFax). Clean title. Its and AZ vehicle. This will be used as a family vehicle and just want to make sure that I won't be having to take it to the shop here soon or regularly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Matt
I have had my 2010 Sport since day 1! It is just shy of 190000. The only 4-wheeling we do is on the beaches in NC. It handles pretty well. Mine is stock and I can attest to the sluggishness on the highway, but that is not why we have a Jeep. I have kept up with the regular maintenance and had to do very few major repairs. My is a 6-speed, so at around 140000, I had the clutch replaced. I have also had trouble with the radiator forming a leak along the driver-side seam. Its pretty minor, but I have had to replace the radiator 2 times, and I am about to do it a 3rd time (luckily I have a lifetime warranted one this time). I have also had to replace the Fuel Vapor Leak Detection Pump, part of the emissions system, due to a recurring engine light (the code was the one for the leaking gas cap, but replacing the cap never fixed it). I plan to keep my 2010 for 7-10 more years. I think it will make it 😁
My 2010 is doing the gas cap thing right now. I'll have to look into that pump.I have had my 2010 Sport since day 1! It is just shy of 190000. The only 4-wheeling we do is on the beaches in NC. It handles pretty well. Mine is stock and I can attest to the sluggishness on the highway, but that is not why we have a Jeep. I have kept up with the regular maintenance and had to do very few major repairs. My is a 6-speed, so at around 140000, I had the clutch replaced. I have also had trouble with the radiator forming a leak along the driver-side seam. Its pretty minor, but I have had to replace the radiator 2 times, and I am about to do it a 3rd time (luckily I have a lifetime warranted one this time). I have also had to replace the Fuel Vapor Leak Detection Pump, part of the emissions system, due to a recurring engine light (the code was the one for the leaking gas cap, but replacing the cap never fixed it). I plan to keep my 2010 for 7-10 more years. I think it will make it 😁
My 2008 has gone through two radiators also for driver side leak. But ... my radiator is overpresurizing because a blown head gasket is allowing exhaust gases into the system. (I'm at 190k and waiting for a good time to build the engine.) Still purrs like a kitten, except when it doesn't.
None of the spark plugs are covered up by the intake. A couple on the passenger side are a little difficult to get to, but the right combination of extensions and swivels works. The rest are all good things to check. Also, check for oil leaks very carefully; some of them are a lot of work (expensive) to fix.You say it’s been serviced regularly…does that mean oil changes?
I would want to know:
Have the transmission, transfer case and differential fluids been changed regularly?
Have the spark plugs, plenum gaskets and PCV valve been changed? (That’s a 100,000 mile service).
How about the thermostat and radiator?
What about the battery and how old are the tires tires?
If those things have been documented and it’s a price you can afford, it may be a great vehicle for you. If they don’t know about that list above, you could be staring at a grand or more in general maintenance with labor.
some of that you can do yourself, but know that half the plugs are covered up by the intake and the PCV valve can be difficult to access.
best of luck. Let us know how it goes!
Chris
The Evap pump had to be replaced on mine at 120k. I just replaced the water pump and water temp sensor at 143k; both had started to leak.I have had my 2010 Sport since day 1! It is just shy of 190000. The only 4-wheeling we do is on the beaches in NC. It handles pretty well. Mine is stock and I can attest to the sluggishness on the highway, but that is not why we have a Jeep. I have kept up with the regular maintenance and had to do very few major repairs. My is a 6-speed, so at around 140000, I had the clutch replaced. I have also had trouble with the radiator forming a leak along the driver-side seam. Its pretty minor, but I have had to replace the radiator 2 times, and I am about to do it a 3rd time (luckily I have a lifetime warranted one this time). I have also had to replace the Fuel Vapor Leak Detection Pump, part of the emissions system, due to a recurring engine light (the code was the one for the leaking gas cap, but replacing the cap never fixed it). I plan to keep my 2010 for 7-10 more years. I think it will make it 😁
Also, I had problems with the front track bar, tie rods, drag link, and steering box since the Jeep was new. All of them were replaced when the Jeep was still under warranty, but in less than 50k, they were all having issues again, along with the ball joints. I replaced all of them with heavy duty aftermarket replacements, and have had no problems since.
The power steering pump went out at about 80k. I put in a rebuilt one, twice before I got one that worked okay although not quite right. It died completely after 25k miles, at which point I put a new steering pump on which has worked perfectly for the last 30k miles.
Welcome to the Forum!My 2010 is doing the gas cap thing right now. I'll have to look into that pump.
My 2008 has gone through two radiators also for driver side leak. But ... my radiator is overpresurizing because a blown head gasket is allowing exhaust gases into the system. (I'm at 190k and waiting for a good time to build the engine.) Still purrs like a kitten, except when it doesn't.
Welcome to the forum @shawnrobbins77 .I have an 2008 and a 2010. Purchased both about 9-10 years old with 100k miles. I don't regret it, but you WILL have minor repairs constantly. Recommend running some motor treatment (SeaFoam, or equivalent) thru your oil regularly to break down oil sludge. Since they burn oil, they've all inevitably run a little low here and there which leads to higher temps and sludge buildup, presenting usually first as valve noise. Also, both of mine at 12-13 years old and ~150k miles had torque converter failures presenting as shudder. Lastly, valve cover gaskets and front crankshaft seals are the leading causes of oil loss. Look for evidence and have the dealer replace them now if they're leaking. Something to think about.
I've got 2 an 08 wrangler X and a 14 sport. Synthetic oil helps oil consumption. Mobil 1 is my choice. I've not tried any others yet. 14 seems to be worse than 08 but oil consumption has been an issue with both.Welcome to the forum @shawnrobbins77 .
I've always used full synthetics and they actually make matters worse. Synthetic oil by design flows better due to molecular construction and will slip through places better than conventional. The idea of going up in viscosity I think is the only option short of replacing the seals at leak points (Or additives to freshen seals).I've got 2 an 08 wrangler X and a 14 sport. Synthetic oil helps oil consumption. Mobil 1 is my choice. I've not tried any others yet. 14 seems to be worse than 08 but oil consumption has been an issue with both.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
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