I did JL C2-650's all around with the C2 tweeters on the dash and in my opinion, my system sounds awesome, even with the factory 130 head unit and factory sub. You can get these bad boys on the cheap from Amazon.
I'm about to do an install close to this with a bit different HU. I'm doing:
Pioneer AVH-X2500BT DVD
This thread is pretty similar, minus the sub. I am a bit surprised that the OP didn't mention anything about how well the speakers fit in the sound bar and up front. Normally you gotta cut or apply something to seal them better. This is my first install, but kinda looking forward to it. It doesn't seem all that technical.
Anyone have a suggestion as to the best placement for the amp...driver or passenger? I was planning on passenger since the power run would be alot shorter than to the driver all things considered.
In my experience, the C2-650X speakers do NOT drop right into the soundbar. The stock speakers have a built in adapter (mounting tabs almost) that makes their mounting diameter slightly larger than the JL's, therefore you need to increase the mounting diameter of the speakers by using a mounting adapter or making one yourself. This will become blatantly obvious if you go to install them yourself. I made my own adapters and it was very easy, I would be glad to help anyone who has any questions.
2nd, the JL Audio 400/4 XD amp is also what I will be going with eventually. That amp has a relatively small footprint and does not heat up very much like other similar amps, therefore it can be mounted just about anywhere. I have the Tuffy security deck, so I will be mounting mine in my trunk somewhere that does not obscure my cargo.
EDIT: They are not drop in if you do not want to drill into the plastic of the soundbar like the OP did.
This is what I am talking about. The three tabs seen in these photos are what i called the "mounting diameter". They are larger than the JL audio mounting diameter, thus the JL audio mounting diameter needs to be made larger, via an adapter.
one last thing, (sorry to the OP for hijacking the thread)
This is the mounting adapter I made myself...
I made it out of thin duct metal, unfortunately, its so thin, I had to JB weld two together to make a stiff enough one to support the weight of the speakers. I did this for two reasons, I already had the material and two, I could cut it with shears and didnt have to use a power tool.
The ID is 5.5 inches, I traced this diameter with the cardboard stencil that comes with the JL audio speakers. To form the OD and the tabs, I traced my stock speaker and added a little extra to make the ring a little wider. then just put dots where the holes in the 3 tabs are and you are good to go.
If you decide to go this route, let me know, I'll help you out.
All good. Any info to help out others is good stuff in my book.
I found that the C2-650CX speaker actually fit the plastic diameter of the sound bar - but by the slimmist of margins. I was able to get 4 screws in each to grab into the plastic. However a spacer would be ideal if it worked to mount directly to the 3 factory holes.
Up front the C2-650 fit much better to the front pods. The tweeters fit like they were made for those tombstones. No cutting at all.
Speaking of the tweeters, yes indeed they fit awesome. They pop right in, but they still could be tighter. Did you glue or tape them in? I dropped the passenger speaker box back in the frame and had no problem on that side. I decided to mount the crossover on the curved plastic paneling directly underneath the glove box with velcro. Fits great and I was hesitant to stick it on the speaker box directly and subject it to a speaker vibration. Probably over cautious, but whatever.
Ran my power through passenger hole down the passenger side floor. Running passenger speaker wires up the roll bar and back down to under the passenger seat to where the amp is. Running drivers side speaker wires side up the driver side roll bar and across the top to meet up with both rears and then down passenger bar to under the seat.
Not sure where I am going to run the RCA's from the HU. Was thinking of just going under the edge of the passenger side center console. Seems like it should be easy.
The only thing I fear is messing with the PAC RP4-CH11 harness. I have been trying to figure out what the hell to do with it, but leaving it for last. I get the general idea, but the details scare me. For instance, the HU has a remote start for the amp that will go directly to the amp from the HU. Howerver, there is a blue/white wire that is built into the harness that says the same. I swear I read that someone had all kinds of trouble because both were being used...issues like that I don't have a clue about!
Otherwise, again thanks for this thread. By far one of the most useful radio build threads around!
Could a person that was replacing all factory audio, after removing the factory amp use the factory speaker connections at that location with like a 8-9 conductor speaker wire(speedwire) and not have to re-run new speaker wire all over the jeep. Assuming I'll use a PAC R4-ch11 interface. Then run the speedwire back my new amp?
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