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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just got my alignment at a local Firestone and it is still pulling to the right , they fixed a lot but said that they couldn’t get the toe on one side all the way because the tie rod wouldn’t thread anymore , also my thrust angle is off , is there anyway to fix this and how would I do it , thanks !
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So I just got my alignment at a local Firestone and it is still pulling to the right , they fixed a lot but said that they couldn’t get the toe on one side all the way because the tie rod wouldn’t thread anymore , also my thrust angle is off , is there anyway to fix this and how would I do it , thanks ! View attachment 4522806
I flipped it for you..
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On a stock JK there is no way to adjust the rear control arms, so if your thrust angle is off, one of them is bent. You could start with checking the lower arms to see if they are both the same distance from the pivots. If they are, then either your frame is bent, or they didn't have the alignment rig set up properly. Or, possibly your axle itself is bent.

If you've run out of tie rod adjustment something is way messed up. Adjusting the tie rod end on EITHER end will change the total toe, then you can centre the wheel with the drag link. So they should have tried to get both tie rods about the same, then adjust them BOTH. They are connected 100% on a solid axle.

If that ISN'T the problem, again you've got something bent.

I think your shop is probably putting their lot boy on the alignment rig to try teach him...
 

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The pull to the right could be an alignment issue. But it is also possible it is something else. A dragging brake caliper could cause it. And some tires pull to the right.
There is so little that is adjustable stock, so without new parts there isn't much to do. A common work around is to add a high pressure gas steering stabilizer when you have a pull to the right. That will impart a push to the left, and the two often cancel each other out.
I am concerned that they don't know what they are doing, or that they are trying to learn how to do a solid front axle on your vehicle.
 

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Is it pulling to the right, or just drifting that way, because of the crown of the road for water drainage?
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It feels like it’s pulling also my rear axle isint completely centered and I was gonna order a adjustable track bar for the rear will this help maybe the thrust angle and pulling ? my front center is perfect but rear is off by a good bit.
 

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Do you have a lift on the Jeep? Installing a lift will move the axles unless you go to an adjustable track bar, but in that case both axles should be off, the front axle further to the left and the rear axle further to the right. If your rear axle is further to the left, something is wrong in the frame or rear suspension. Without a left both should be very close to centered.

I you have a small lift in front (the leveling kit) that would not affect the rear.
 

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I just went through this with a used lifted 2015 JK Rubicon I got a few months ago. A regular alignment shop usually won’t do the job correctly. And everything others have said about your alignment so far or spot on. You don’t have enough toe in and that can make your Jeep wander or pull a bit and that’s an easy fix since it can be adjusted with the tie rod. The biggest issue I see is your thrust angle. If your axles are not parallel your jeep will not track straight. My jeep had the same issue. The lift on mine had adjustable upper control arms front ad rear but on the rear those would only help set the pinion and driveshaft angle and would not help with the thrust angle. I installed adjustable lower control arms front and rear as well. There’s a ton of great videos showing you how to get your Jeep lined out at home. I spent a day measuring and adjusting via a few different YouTube videos and got it to track and drive perfectly. If you’re out into that I’d recommend a local off-road shop. Most times the local shops that install the lift kits either do their own alignments in house or work with a local alignment shop that can get you covered.
 

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Your rear axle is just barely out of spec but it is worth investigating and fixing. If the alignment sheet is correct and you have a 2012 JK; how many miles? If you haven't been in any accident it is possible you may just have bad bushings in one or multiple rear control arms. If your bushings are good, you could still fix the rear thrust angle with adjustable control arms. An offset rear axle isn't the same as thrust angle. An adjustable rear track bar would be nice if you are more than 1/4" offset. It all depends on how picky you are. Aftermarket track bars are usually stronger and when combined with a quality raised bracket can improve handling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes I corrected the centering and geometry in the front with a drag link flip kit and track bar bracket and it put my axle more in spec than the rear just been waiting for this adjustable track bar for the rear to come in so I can center it the guy before me never did any of these things threw on a lift and forgot about it , I have a 3” spacer lift on 35s btw
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your rear axle is just barely out of spec but it is worth investigating and fixing. If the alignment sheet is correct and you have a 2012 JK; how many miles? If you haven't been in any accident it is possible you may just have bad bushings in one or multiple rear control arms. If your bushings are good, you could still fix the rear thrust angle with adjustable control arms. An offset rear axle isn't the same as thrust angle. An adjustable rear track bar would be nice if you are more than 1/4" offset. It all depends on how picky you are. Aftermarket track bars are usually stronger and when combined with a quality raised bracket can improve handling.
I will also check the bushings and control arms , thanks !
 

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Yes I corrected the centering and geometry in the front with a drag link flip kit and track bar bracket and it put my axle more in spec than the rear just been waiting for this adjustable track bar for the rear to come in so I can center it the guy before me never did any of these things threw on a lift and forgot about it , I have a 3” spacer lift on 35s btw
That is a lot of lift for just spacers. And you really should not need a draglink flip with 3" of lift. How much added bumpstop are you running in front? You would typically need around 3" of extra bumpstop to clear a flipped draglink.
What are you doing to correct caster? Control arms or geometry brackets? You are at the lower end of what I would want for caster. More caster might help it steer straighter.
Are you running proper length shocks? Or shock extensions? How long are the shocks extended? If over 24" you typically need either exhaust spacers or an aftermarket front drive shaft. Otherwise, at some point, the rubber gator on the stock driveshaft is going to contact the exhaust crossover and melt. That lets the grease out, starting the failure process of the front driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That is a lot of lift for just spacers. And you really should not need a draglink flip with 3" of lift. How much added bumpstop are you running in front? You would typically need around 3" of extra bumpstop to clear a flipped draglink.
What are you doing to correct caster? Control arms or geometry brackets? You are at the lower end of what I would want for caster. More caster might help it steer straighter.
Are you running proper length shocks? Or shock extensions? How long are the shocks extended? If over 24" you typically need either exhaust spacers or an aftermarket front drive shaft. Otherwise, at some point, the rubber gator on the stock driveshaft is going to contact the exhaust crossover and melt. That lets the grease out, starting the failure process of the front driveshaft.
Let me correct myself I believe the spacers are 2.5inches the dealer labeled them as 3 inch but I don’t believe that to be true , I’m running rancho geometry brackets too second hole from the top is where I have it set
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That is a lot of lift for just spacers. And you really should not need a draglink flip with 3" of lift. How much added bumpstop are you running in front? You would typically need around 3" of extra bumpstop to clear a flipped draglink.
What are you doing to correct caster? Control arms or geometry brackets? You are at the lower end of what I would want for caster. More caster might help it steer straighter.
Are you running proper length shocks? Or shock extensions? How long are the shocks extended? If over 24" you typically need either exhaust spacers or an aftermarket front drive shaft. Otherwise, at some point, the rubber gator on the stock driveshaft is going to contact the exhaust crossover and melt. That lets the grease out, starting the failure process of the front driveshaft.
What do you think is a good number for the caster ?
 

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What do you think is a good number for the caster ?
I like between 4.5 and 5.5 degrees of caster. But more is not the same sort of problem as less. Both can be an issue, but not enough caster is a bigger issue drive wise than too much caster.

The thing with spacers is you can actually measure them to see how big they are. They are directly measurable, a 2.5" spacer will measure 2.5" thick and a 3" spacer will measure 3" thick. There are 3" spacer kits out there, but I would not run one. I have run a 2.5" spacer lift, that was our first lift. It had 2.5" spacers up front and 2" spacer for the back. That lifted the Jeep and also leveled it. It is common to lift the front more than the rear to level out the stance.
Our spacer lift also included bumpstop extensions, it had 2.75" bumpstop extensions up front and 2.5" extensions in back. I think that was more bumpstop extension than we needed at that amount of lift, so I swapped them out for smaller bumpstop extensions. We are now running around 4" of lift and have 2.75" bumpstop extensions up front (the ones that came with the 2.5" spacer lift) and something like 4" of bumpstop extension in back (which is achieved by a combination of upper and lower bumpstop extensions)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I like between 4.5 and 5.5 degrees of caster. But more is not the same sort of problem as less. Both can be an issue, but not enough caster is a bigger issue drive wise than too much caster.

The thing with spacers is you can actually measure them to see how big they are. They are directly measurable, a 2.5" spacer will measure 2.5" thick and a 3" spacer will measure 3" thick. There are 3" spacer kits out there, but I would not run one. I have run a 2.5" spacer lift, that was our first lift. It had 2.5" spacers up front and 2" spacer for the back. That lifted the Jeep and also leveled it. It is common to lift the front more than the rear to level out the stance.
Our spacer lift also included bumpstop extensions, it had 2.75" bumpstop extensions up front and 2.5" extensions in back. I think that was more bumpstop extension than we needed at that amount of lift, so I swapped them out for smaller bumpstop extensions. We are now running around 4" of lift and have 2.75" bumpstop extensions up front (the ones that came with the 2.5" spacer lift) and something like 4" of bumpstop extension in back (which is achieved by a combination of upper and lower bumpstop extensions)
yeah I just measured them and the spacers are 2.5 and the bump stop extensions are as you said 2.75 front and 2.5 in the rear , thank you for your input I will mess with the caster and see if that helps at all
 
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