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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody, @JeepCares et al, know first if there is a TSB on the motor grommet I have read so much about?
If not, anyone link me to a post or anything in how to remove the washer motor for replacement of said grommet?
Obviously until I remove it I can't say for certain it is the cause, but it only does it in the coldest of days, giving me the washercicle that is so loved.
I use RainX orange, but have since 2018. And, according to everything I have found, that only gums up the low fluid sensor, which mine does not have.
Thanks for any help.


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Our 2007, 2008, 2009 and 2018 all did/do it when it gets real cold and have since brand new.
It sure if my daughters JL does it or not.


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Discussion Starter #3
Our 2007, 2008, 2009 and 2018 all did/do it when it gets real cold and have since brand new.
It sure if my daughters JL does it or not.


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Yeah, been seeing a lot of info on it. I do have the BMW in my Amazon cart if I can figure out to get the motor out. It may require ECU removal due to location, not too keen on that.

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I just went through this issue. Mine leaks when it starts to get cold.


I removed the pump and stuck a washer in between the pump and the white grommet effectively making the whole pump height slightly taller than it was before. This puts more downward force on the white grommet when the pup is reinstalled. The washer I used was about 1/16" thick. It's kind of hard to get the pump back in with an added 1/16" height, but it goes if you play with it. I also gave the grommet itself a few turns of teflon tape before putting it in.


So far, so good. We'll see what happens when the temp starts hitting -30 or so though....


Removal:
NOTE:Both the single and dual washer pump/motor unit can be removed from the washer reservoir without removing the reservoir and component tray unit from the vehicle using the following procedure.

  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. If equipped with an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS), disconnect the IBS connector first before disconnecting the negative battery cable.
  2. Siphon the washer fluid from the washer reservoir (6) on the forward end of the component tray (3) on the left side of the engine compartment into a clean container for reuse.
  3. Reach into the well of the component tray directly behind the washer reservoir to access and disconnect the engine compartment wire harness connector from the washer pump/motor unit (1) connector receptacle (2) on the top of the motor housing.
  4. Disconnect the front washer hose (4) from the washer pump/motor unit outlet nipple.
  5. Disconnect the rear washer hose (7) from the washer pump/motor unit outlet nipple, if the vehicle is so equipped.
  6. Pull the top of the washer pump/motor unit away from the reservoir far enough to disengage the snap post (5) on the top of the motor housing from the receptacle in the reservoir.
  7. Pull the washer pump/motor unit straight up and out of the washer reservoir far enough to disengage the inlet nipple from the rubber grommet seal/filter screen in the reservoir. Care must be taken not to damage the reservoir.
  8. Remove the rubber grommet seal/filter screen for the washer pump from the pump mounting hole in the washer reservoir and discard
GUID-01-400-000-362345.jpg
6149BXMNEzL._SX425_.jpg
Untitled-1.jpg
 

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It's really easy. Just follow the above posted instructions. I did it several years ago but just started having the leak again. Ordered the BMW o ring for the second time. 2012 JKUR.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just went through this issue. Mine leaks when it starts to get cold.


I removed the pump and stuck a washer in between the pump and the white grommet effectively making the whole pump height slightly taller than it was before. This puts more downward force on the white grommet when the pup is reinstalled. The washer I used was about 1/16" thick. It's kind of hard to get the pump back in with an added 1/16" height, but it goes if you play with it. I also gave the grommet itself a few turns of teflon tape before putting it in.


So far, so good. We'll see what happens when the temp starts hitting -30 or so though....


Removal:
View attachment 4192025
View attachment 4192021
View attachment 4192023
Outstanding, thank you very much, this is a pretty straightforward repair.
Don't know what the IBS is nor if it came with one though. Edit-quick Google search seems to indicate 2018+
Merry Christmas

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Outstanding, thank you very much, this is a pretty straightforward repair.
Don't know what the IBS is nor if it came with one though. Edit-quick Google search seems to indicate 2018+
Merry Christmas

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I didn't bother with step one. I really don't think you need to disconnect the battery to unplug the pump. It's a precaution I didn't think was too necessary.
 

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You can buy a new rubber grommet seal/filter screen for it.
 

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Anybody, @JeepCares et al, know first if there is a TSB on the motor grommet I have read so much about?
If not, anyone link me to a post or anything in how to remove the washer motor for replacement of said grommet?
Obviously until I remove it I can't say for certain it is the cause, but it only does it in the coldest of days, giving me the washercicle that is so loved.
I use RainX orange, but have since 2018. And, according to everything I have found, that only gums up the low fluid sensor, which mine does not have.
Thanks for any help.


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If you would like to PM us with your VIN, we would be happy to look into any possible TSBs.
Alex
JeepCares
 

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I didn't bother with step one. I really don't think you need to disconnect the battery to unplug the pump. It's a precaution I didn't think was too necessary.
It's not necessary until it bites you in the ass. That is literally the definition of a precaution! Even more so if someone had a switch pod that the controller sits right next to that spot.

Seriously the electrical system of a jk is similar to a millennial. Very much a special snowflake that cant handle external input that it does not agree with. It won't blow a fuse that is easy to replace. The power module is what you should be worried about.
 

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It's not necessary until it bites you in the ass. That is literally the definition of a precaution! Even more so if someone had a switch pod that the controller sits right next to that spot.

Seriously the electrical system of a jk is similar to a millennial. Very much a special snowflake that cant handle external input that it does not agree with. It won't blow a fuse that is easy to replace. The power module is what you should be worried about.

There is risk in everything.... including step one where you remove/replace the ground cable from the battery. Indeed there are many a thread that go something like this:
Disconnected/reconnected battery and now jeep dead!
 

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Or having the shop manager scold the sales staff for searching for a used car by locking and unlocking the car with the fob so it beeps and finding out that the car is on the lift and they accidentally hit the remote start......
 

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I just went through this issue. Mine leaks when it starts to get cold.


I removed the pump and stuck a washer in between the pump and the white grommet effectively making the whole pump height slightly taller than it was before. This puts more downward force on the white grommet when the pup is reinstalled. The washer I used was about 1/16" thick. It's kind of hard to get the pump back in with an added 1/16" height, but it goes if you play with it. I also gave the grommet itself a few turns of teflon tape before putting it in.


So far, so good. We'll see what happens when the temp starts hitting -30 or so though....
Didn't realize that it was that easy to get to. I have to get mine fixed as well. Thanks for the pix.
 
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