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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got the Poison Spyder JK Evap Skid and having some difficulty installing it.

The Poison Spyder installation PDF appears to be based on earlier model years, when there was no factory evap skid in the way of getting at connectors.



In the picture, I've got connector 1 off without any problem by inserting where the screwdriver is and lifting the plastic slightly (toward passenger side) then pulling the entire connector toward the rear of the Jeep.

I can't figure out how to get connector 2 off. The connector shown in the Poison Spyder PDF is black and completely different shape than the white one on my 2013.

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
positrak - thanks, that's exactly what I needed to see.

johnnyjellybean - when I'm halfway through, I'll take a pic so you can see the difference between the factory and the Poison Spyder - much thicker skid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Of course nothing goes smoothly for me.

First, that #2 connector? Here is what a broken sample of the inner black plastic retaining clip for it looks like.



Local Jeep parts are closed today, so it's going to be a phone call and trip in my wife's Impreza tomorrow. Stupid little part - I really hope they don't charge and arm and a leg for it. Lesson? It's cold enough to be brittle!

Secondly, I have contact between two of the lines and the edge of the skid



I'm not happy about this - I'm gathering the evap canister was redesigned at some point. I sent Poison Spyder an email - perhaps they have a workaround suggested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh, and the distance (when parked in my garage) from the edge of the stock skid and the drive shaft looks like very close to 1 5/16. I don't have enough experience to know how likely it is to have the driveshaft offset horizontally that far when flexing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh the joy continues - local dealer is telling me that retaining clip isn't sold alone - only with the hose/connector assembly. And 4 day delivery since it's new with 2012 model year, so they haven't had significant call for them.
 

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wow, bad luck that.

I'd try some plastic welding or even super glue before waiting on them.

What happens if you put each side back in, you can see where the coupling is made between the white plastic end of the tube and the canister (round clear black), which suggests the spring action is to hold it in place. But if you slide each piece back into its place, does it hold if you pull the tube as if you were trying to take it off? If so it's locked or being retained, but without the spring action not securely. Just duct tape around it to effect that for the time being.
 

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How frustrating. I had issues putting on my River Raider evap skid too - I do think the evap canister was redesigned because it totally didn't fit right. We had to modify it & completely relocate it drilling new mounting holes & everything.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If I am understanding the dealer's part department right (and if they are giving me accurate info) the canister was redesigned in 2012.

I won't have a chance to work on it in a storm, so I'll just wait on the replacement part.

Given my concern about it pressing against the back edge of the skid, I could probably get away with just tightening everything up and leaving the clip off - but I'd rather not do that permanently. If I was on the road and my choice was "wait it out 4 days in a hotel with no ride" or "shove it on and duck tape it in place" - I'd pick the duck tape!

I was hoping I could just order a baggie of retaining clips in both sizes (the hose above my #2 is the same type of retaining clip, just a larger size and white instead of black) to have in the garage, but no such luck.

Waiting on feedback from Poison Spyder, but right now my tentative plan is to grind down the edge of the skid where it is making contact to make it nice and rounded then paint it and call it good.

It's all still mall-crawler-bolt-on-not-a-real-Jeep until I start welding, right? :D
 

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well you could always get the whole new assembly, remove that little clip, place the broken one in the new assembly, return it to them and say you changed your mind you don't need it anymore. Doubt anyone of them knows that there is a clip in there to begin with. :cool: What is it, like 50 dollars for a 0.02 cent clip they want?

About the rubbing on the hose do you been on #2 as below? Can't really tell what is going on in the picture, but what about a washer between the frame and the plate bolted on or if that may weaken the purpose of it all, two thin metal shims between it and the frame to lower it fractionally to clear the tube.

 

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I was going to suggest a 3D printer if you know some one where you are who has one, they can knock a duplicate in no time. Actually, around in your area for a store or whoever sells them, pretty sure they'd make one for the fun of it for you if you contacted them just for the demo of it.

If I had the skill and supplies, this might be an interesting way to make replacements for the clip: XRobots.co.uk - Micro Helicopter Repair
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, it's $46 for the hose/connector/clip assembly when I really just need the $0.02 clip. I am not the type to do the 'grab the clip and return the assembly' - not in my realm of honest or fair way to do things. It's a lesson learned, and I'll have a spare hose and connector in the garage!

In that pic, the bolts for the skid are on quite loose, probably another 1/2 inch to cinch up - so a shim or washer won't help with clearance. The bottom hose does have the split loom on it, so I'm not sure if that's just as good for abrasion protection as anything else. The hoses themselves don't have much give, at least at ambient temp this weekend. Perhaps come the summer time they will bend.

I also thought of putting a spacer (aka piece of scrap wood) between the canister and the skid, but there is a clamp/strap that goes across the top of the canister to hold it firmly to the skid which will prevent me from raising up the canister within the skid space by any significant amount.
 

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These look a lot like the brake lines clip I removed on a Turrus. I was able to buy some from Autozone. Take it up to an auto store and I bet they can match it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yep - those do look quite similar - the dorman style. I'll bring the broken clip to a generic parts place. I foolishly figured it was some Chrysler specific part.
 
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