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i just bought a jeep literally yesterday and when i test drove it in the streets and even the highway. everything was fine. it wasn't until i actually left the dealer and was sitting at red lights that the jeep started stalling. the engine would die and i would crank right away after setting back to park. but when the jeep came on and i set it on drive again, it wouldn't move, not even rev up the RPMs for a good 3 secs than it was like the transmissions slammed in place and the jeep moved again. this morning however it stalled while i was driving. i managed to pull over and i tried to start the car but it wouldn't start, it turned the key and cranked, but i think no gas was getting to the engine. so I'm trying to find a solution in my head and i don't know much about car mechanics. so my question is...

would the fuel pump being faulty be a good place to start?
(the dealership took the jeep back and said they would fix the problem)
I'm just having separation anxiety already haha. its a sweet ride
 

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Could be the TIPM fuel pump relay....could also be bad gas
 

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There are indeed issues out there with the fuel pump relay in the TIPM on various 3.6 models.

There may be a recall for some vehicles or at least warranty coverage so definitely take it to the stealer for diagnosis.

What a lot of folks are doing who experience it is to create a small jumper to install in the TIPM/fuse box that bypasses the bad relay.

Just get one of these from O'reilly... You only need one and one fuse, not two of these or two.

Littelfuse Blister Pack FHM200BP - Fuse Holder | O'Reilly Auto Parts


Pull the fuel pump fuse and use a test light to figure out which terminal is hot when the key is on. That is the power coming from the relay. The other terminal for that fuse goes to the fuel pump. This is where you will supply the power from the new source.

Take the Add-A-Circuit and plug it into an unused fuse socket that has power when the key is in the ON/RUN position. The new fuse block has two slots for fuse. The top slot is the new circuit and the bottom slot is for the circuit that you are tapping into. If there was no fuse in the TIPM then don't bother with putting a fuse in the bottom slot but if you tap into a circuit that already has a fuse, move the existing fuse from the TIPM socket to the bottom slot of the new fuse block.

Some folks like to buy two of the jumper blocks and plug them in to each of the sockets and use two to four fuses.

I recommend a simpler approach. Just one jumper block and then solder or crimp a single small spade connector to the lead coming off of the block. The spade connector may be too wide so trim it with a small pair of side cutters. That or cannibalize an old fuse. Break it apart, freeing the metal terminals and then just solder one of those terminals to the end of the wire. Be sure to use heat shrink tubing on the exposed area.

Anyway, I would not leave the "test lead" bypass in there for long. Just put it there as a temporary crutch used to diagnose the issue and get you out of a pinch. I have not looked at a schematic but the relay is there for a reason and if you bypass the circuit, you may bypass important safety features like cutting the fuel supply in case of a roll over.

Long term fix is to replace the TIPM but I have seen folks wire in a new, external relay. Personally, I will probably wire in a relay or do a circuit board level replacement if this happens to me so that the originally intended circuit is still in place.
 

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I have a 2013 Jeep Unlimited. We are having the exact same issue. It has been happening on and off for about 6 months. Tonight it stalled in a busy intersection and would not restart. No engine error lights..it would turn over but like others have mentioned seemed like it was getting no fuel. After 15 minutes the damn thing started. I have been driving around my neighborhood for 30 minutes try to repeat but nothing. Runs perfect. This is a very frustrating problem for a vehicle with just 30,000 miles on it.
 

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I own a 2013 Wrangler Unlimited Saharah, same issue. Stalled last night at highway speed for the forth time. Have already had the oil pressure and oil temp sensors replaced, no affect. Are there any members that have had the issue fixed?? What was the culprit?? I see lots of complaints here, but no success stories. Please help!!!
 

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We had a similar issue on a previous 2012 Sport and the dealer did the TIPM relay bypass and it made no difference. Then they started trying to accuse me of putting diesel, E85, water, or "something other than gas" in the tank.
 
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