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I'm looking to buy my first Wrangler. The one I'm looking at is a 2013 Sport Unlimited automatic transmission. 30,000 miles.

It's from a dealer and it's certified. When I brought it to my mechanic for a look over, he said the front and rear rears and transaxles had not been checked for fluid level because he thinks the plugs had never been removed.

He also said the rear pinion seal was leaking as evidenced by the oil on whatever was next to it. As viewed from the rear of the vehicle the oil was to the right of the seal. Maybe it was the fuel tank. The dealer said the seal was good. He didn't know why there was oil on that other part near the seal.

Also, my mechanic said the left front shock looked like it had leaked as evidenced by what looked like corrosion on part of the shock. He said the shock had probably leaked all the fluid out.

My mechanic also thought the cooling fluid looked like it should be flushed.

Just looking for any thoughts on the above and for what I should be looking at in a used Wrangler.
 

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Most never change diff fluid, I did at 10K and will again soon. Small weep of oil on things can mean a leak but nothing to get freaked about. How does the vehicle handle, a shock that is shot will show itself on a drive, I doubt at 30k the shock is gone but it's possible. As for the coolant 30k is not that many miles and it is good for 5 years, the new HOAT coolant is not the normal green many old school mechanics are used to. If it is what you want those listed items are minor.
 

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Shocks are a wear item, like brake pads or wipers. If they go bad, it is a simple install and to be expected.

A radiator flush is a simple PM issue and at 30k miles, is nothing to worry over.

The seal is more of a concern, but even that isn't much of a worry.

I have two 2013 Wranglers. The wife's JKU and my JK. She has about 66k on hers now and the only issue was a pronounced ticking coming from the engine starting a month ago. I insisted that it be taken in and it turns out that the one of the camshafts was "delaminating" on a single bank of cylinders. FCA covered it under warranty and it now works great. Hers is a daily driver.

My JK had a oil pressure sensor fail in the open position at ~18k and throw a MIL light. It is a known issue with that part and it can be driven to a shop. FCA replaced that within 2 hours on warranty. I drive mine occasionally.

As much as FCA catches heck for poor QC and build quality, I have had a far and away better experience than I had with two Honda Accords [both MIJ], a BMW 3 series, and a M-B C class.
 

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I would be surprised that the shock is bad, but it's possible. The "corrosion" could be normal. The coolant is OAT (10 yr./150K miles) for a 2013 JK. There should be nothing wrong with it. It can be easily flushed if you're not comfortable with it. Only use Mopar OAT. You can actually use anything you want as long as the system is thoroughly and completely flushed. However, you're probably better off using Mopar OAT since it's life is 10 yr./150K miles and you don't have to be concerned that your mechanic will flush it properly. If he doesn't and uses different coolant you'll have a bigger issue. The leak should be addressed. It's not unusual that the differentials, transfer case or transmission wouldn't be serviced at 30K. It's easy to do if you decide to do it or have it done. The fluid levels can easily be checked. I would be surprised if the fluids are low. Good luck.
 

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None of those issues are deal breakers in my opinion. If that's all your mechanic found, I would use it to try and get a few dollars off. But if the price is good, I would go for it. My 2013 has been rock solid, beats the crap out of my wife's stupid Subaru. By this point her car "built with love" instead of engineers had the whole engine torn down.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
RedundanT said:
How does the vehicle handle, a shock that is shot will show itself on a drive, I doubt at 30k the shock is gone but it's possible.
Good point. It handled fine.

2five22 said:
The seal is more of a concern...
Yeah, I'm concerned about that mostly.

Kik said:
The leak should be addressed. It's not unusual that the differentials, transfer case or transmission wouldn't be serviced at 30K. It's easy to do if you decide to do it or have it done. The fluid levels can easily be checked. I would be surprised if the fluids are low.
You'd think the dealer would have checked these before stating the vehicle is Certified. These are items on the Certification checklist.

Grey Area said:
None of those issues are deal breakers in my opinion. If that's all your mechanic found, I would use it to try and get a few dollars off. But if the price is good, I would go for it.
They want $28,000. Do you think that's a decent price for this Certified used 2013 Wrangler Unlimited, hard top?

Thanks all
 

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They want $28,000. Do you think that's a decent price for this Certified used 2013 Wrangler Unlimited, hard top?

Thanks all
I am always in awe of what these vehicles go for. This isn't a shot at you, I paid what the market dictated for my Wrangler... and it was a lot IMO.

But this is a 4 year old vehicle with 30,000 miles... and they're asking the same price that a brand new sport stickers for. Granted you have to add on for the automatic, the hard top, and any other options... but it's also a used vehicle.
 

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Look around man... There are tons of these things out there. Compare prices and options. I personally went with a rebuild and saved several thousand for the same year and less miles. Not for everybody tho.. But during my shopping i saw alot of 13-15s in that mileage range for that kinda money and maybe a hair less. Theres just a ton of these things out there
 

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It also has that 24S package with includes power windows, doors, etc. Also has running boards.

I've been looking for several months now. Looking at both dealers and Craigslist. Just not seeing them for less. I'm going to talk to them this afternoon to see what they say about the rear pinion and front shock.
 

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It also has that 24S package with includes power windows, doors, etc. Also has running boards.
I went out of my way to find a Jeep with roll up windows because I spend most of my time with the doors off of it. I didn't want to have to plug and unplug the wiring harness to the doors every time I put them on.

I realize that the vast majority of Wranglers sold now have power windows & locks but I scratch my head and wonder why anyone would want that option.

It took me a while but I found what I was looking for: a Sport w/o power windows, with AC, and with the 3.73 gears. The fact that mine came with Bluetooth was a bonus. Mine has running boards too and I like them, but I was hoping to add my own nerf bars to the Jeep and now I can't really justify the expense.
 

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It also has that 24S package with includes power windows, doors, etc. Also has running boards.

I've been looking for several months now. Looking at both dealers and Craigslist. Just not seeing them for less. I'm going to talk to them this afternoon to see what they say about the rear pinion and front shock.
I'm not sure of your location but there are several on ebay in those ranges... as well as cars dot com. ALot of dealers just sell trade ins on ebay and you can get some deals. Some are worth having a little shipping fee.
 

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Regarding HOAT vs OAT Antifreeze...

You would need your dealer to confirm by the VIN and Build Date if your Jeep takes HOAT or OAT. Shortly after production of the 2013 model year, FCA changed from HOAT to OAT. They are not compatible with each other and will cause issues if mixed. If OAT, only use OAT from FCA. Nothing else will work.
 

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O also.. look at Caravana dot com. I researched them while my daughter was looking for a car and advised her that it was her best option for no money down. Comes with a 7 day test drive and if you have an issue, you trade it for another or return it. Also comes with 100 day warranty. AND they deliver it to you! She really had a great experience with the site, got a great price and financing for her to help build credit.. she had a good score but no history and the dealers wanted me to sign. I was ok with it but it wasn't what she needed to experience. She's a big girl now haha
 

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Tonydee, I feel your pain about the price of these things. I'm 45 and have never owned a new car due to the initial ownership depreciation curve. So when I decided a Wrangler would be my next car I started looking at recent used models and was shocked at the prices. $25k gets you just about any low mileage used car you want, except a Wrangler. I caved and ordered new just because of how close in price new and used are.
 

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None of what the mechanic "observed" are issues of any magnitude. IF you can parlay the report into the negotiation so much the better.
Shocks are "good" until they aren't - that can be an excuse for "Upgrade" OR just free the bottom and see if it has life in it. IF it leaked it'll be pretty limp.
Diffs are easy. Coolant is important, just get the right stuff.
 

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For a little more you can buy a brand new one with a full warranty. List on a brand new one might seem like a lot more, but once you get the dealer to come down to a reasonable level. List price is starting around $33.5k for a Sport S with auto. But you should be able to buy one for closer to $30k. Two or three grand more for a new one with the options you want seems like a no-brainer to me, but to each their own.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just did some reading on OAT and HOAT. I had no idea there were so many different antifreeze types. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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Except for the possible seal issue, I'd consider the other things you listed to be non-issues because they are easy/cheap fixes (if actually needed).

It also has that 24S package with includes power windows, doors, etc. Also has running boards.

I've been looking for several months now. Looking at both dealers and Craigslist. Just not seeing them for less. I'm going to talk to them this afternoon to see what they say about the rear pinion and front shock.
Why don't you use the Jeep build site to build one with the same options as the one you are looking at, and see what the price is... that may help you decide. You can sometimes get 5% to 7% off sticker, so factor that in on the new price.

Question: You said the one you are looking at is Certified. Does it come with an extended warranty? The reason I ask is because BMW's CPO vehicles get the factory warranty extended by 2 years, which is a really desirable thing (factory warranty is bumper to bumper). I'm not familiar with what FCA does on their certified vehicles, but worth a check.
 

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Is that a real FCA Certified Pre Owend? Many, many dealers now just call all of their used cars CPO or Certified Used (which cracks me up). Some will call the nicer ones Certified and some will just use the term on chars they want to move.

If it's a real FCA Certified vehicle, it will come with some CPO paperwork. That seal is on the CPO coverage and, as a previous poster mentioned, it shouldn't have been show to customers without having been addressed.
 
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