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We are trying to get 50K of one part that has been made for years. Ford is trying to build 150K+ of an entire vehicle that has never been built before. Should be no problems with the Bronco,,,,LOL.
 

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Well I just had my third oil cooler/filter housing replaced in my
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2014 with 70,000 miles. Yes, my third time. This time there was no oil around the filter in the valley but instead was leaking out the back and down the motor. Also made a lake under the manifold. Amazing the Jeep didn’t catch fire. May have been better if it had. I love how versatile and fun this Jeep is but what a piece of crap.
 
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Well I just had my third oil cooler/filter housing replaced in my 2014 with 70,000 miles. Yes, my third time. This time there was no oil around the filter in the valley but instead was leaking out the back and down the motor. Also made a lake under the manifold. Amazing the Jeep didn’t catch fire. May have been better if it had. I love how versatile and fun this Jeep is but what a piece of crap.
That's exactly how our '18 was.
 

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There seems to be more to the story. Assuming a certain percentage of the parts are defective the probability of having 2 parts fail with relatively low mileage is very low. Now there is obviously a design shortcoming that gives the parts a shorter lifetime than desirable. But, it seems the overwhelming majority of Jeeps don’t need 3 of these in 70K miles. This leads me to believe there are other factors involved besides just the housing assembly.
 

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There seems to be more to the story. Assuming a certain percentage of the parts are defective the probability of having 2 parts fail with relatively low mileage is very low. Now there is obviously a design shortcoming that gives the parts a shorter lifetime than desirable. But, it seems the overwhelming majority of Jeeps don’t need 3 of these in 70K miles. This leads me to believe there are other factors involved besides just the housing assembly.
I asked my mechanic what they thought and besides agreeing the plastic part is a joke we concluded heat from the motor is a likely (and obvious) contributor. That motor can get hot. The first 2 failed within one year of each other. This last one made it 3-1/2 years. This Jeep is pampered and garaged. Planned on it being in the family 20 years. Not so sure now.
 

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I expect my OEM cooler to someday fail. But when the 2nd one fails the thing will be sold. I wonder if anyone saw this issue when the Pentastar was designed. If not, why not.
 

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Mine will be in the family 20 or more years because the crappy pentastar will be replace with a LT/10 speed :D
Yeah maybe I’ll drop a hemi in there when the time comes haha
 
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Yeah maybe I’ll drop a hemi in there when the time comes haha
Another Chrysler motor? You know, the first time you get bit, it's the dog's fault.

Mark

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

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Another Chrysler motor? You know, the first time you get bit, it's the dog's fault.

Mark

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Good point. I’m not overly familiar with problems with hemi motors but guys I know including my brother have had good experiences. Maybe a Toyota V6 will fit haha
 

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Hey, I am in the same boat folks. Mine began leaking. It gets the trans pan on the passenger side wet with oil but it is not enough to change the oil level.

My dealership will cover it, but they mentioned the national back order of 5,400 units... so.

Question is - which aftermarket part is worth installing if I decide to just do this myself. There are tons of Chinese versions, but most of those are out of stock too - due to demand.

I once put a starter into a Toyota pickup thet was branded “New Starter” from China, and it last ten years and was sold with the truck so I won’t quickly dismiss a non-oem part.

Clearly the OEM part itself sucks anyway.

Who has had success and with what brand?
 

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Can you really trust the “branding” on a China part? Even if it’s from the same seller. There are OEM parts around if one is willing to spend the time making some calls.
 

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When I was a kid I made a model of an engine. It was all plastic just like the real ones today.
 

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looking at that pic by pacifico it looks like oring that sits down in that oil tube is what failed. I went over my old one w magnifying glass and find no cracks.
pressure test may be next.
when I removed mine it came out super easy, new one went back in really tight. Same with the how to videos on u tube.

I bet all these are leaking from the orings.

It would explain why mine puked when we had sub zero days temps here in dfw.

wasn't leaking real bad when was 75 degrees but oring shrank when it got down to zero and let go all together.
 

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Bingo^^^^^^. Mine lives in so cal with mild temps. The sealing of the O rings is a bad design for o rings. The o rings should have more containment for longer use at hot oil PSI. Perhaps a re design of the O rings like an L shaped O ring. I don't think coating the rings with any hi temp oil proof non hardening sealer would help but it would be tempting.
 

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Do not apply any torrque to the cap, it wont leak, just screw it till the end without any extra torque.
I think some of those get cracked by ppl trying to torque to recomended 18 ft lbs.
 

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Hey, I am in the same boat folks. Mine began leaking. It gets the trans pan on the passenger side wet with oil but it is not enough to change the oil level.

My dealership will cover it, but they mentioned the national back order of 5,400 units... so.

Question is - which aftermarket part is worth installing if I decide to just do this myself. There are tons of Chinese versions, but most of those are out of stock too - due to demand.

I once put a starter into a Toyota pickup thet was branded “New Starter” from China, and it last ten years and was sold with the truck so I won’t quickly dismiss a non-oem part.

Clearly the OEM part itself sucks anyway.

Who has had success and with what brand?
I would install a 2012-2013 oil cooler before I took a chance with the non-OEM one. It's not a job you want to do twice. The 2012-2013 coolers take a different filter, but they are readily available. You would have to let anyone who intends to change the oil filter know that your Jeep uses a 2012-2013 oil filter.
 

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No, that by itself is not the problem. It took me a week or so to do my Oil Cooler.

Check all the connections that you had apart to do the valve cover re-sealing - VVT Solenoids, Camshaft Position Sensors.
I got everything put together (for second time) today. Idle is good. Took it around the block. Drives good. I think everything is fixed. I have concluded that I had swapped the camshaft VVT solenoid connectors on bank 1 (passenger side cylinder head). Don't ask me why Mopar decided to make the connectors the same so they are switchable. Anyway, I did throw a bunch of money at it, but it was all for stuff (timing chains, rocker arms, lifters, etc.) that would have required replacement soon, so no big deal. I enjoyed the hands on work with my Jeep.

I did actually replace the camshaft position sensors (note: not the VVT solenoids) on both banks, as they are not too expensive. And, in doing so, the re-learn procedure is not actually necessary. The ECU will not trigger CEL if you do not do the re-learn procedure.
 

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I have concluded that I had swapped the camshaft VVT solenoid connectors on bank 1 (passenger side cylinder head).
D'Oh! At least everything is back together and working fine now.
 

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My 2014 oil cooler lasted 80k miles before leaking. I do not believe that it leaks enough oil to cause engine failure due to lack of oil. Mine happened while I was driving across country and I put another 1500 miles on it to get to my destination before replacing it. So far I’m 6k miles on the new one with no problems.
 
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