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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
As requested, more pics!

These are arranged from left to right, top to bottom...

Front triple rates. Coils touch a bit at top, touch less at the bottom, far apart in the middle, aka triple rate I suppose.

The rear coil correction wedgies, not sure how much coil bow there woulda been, just put the wedgies in first time around.

Rear triple rates. Coils touch a bit at top, not at all at the bottom, evenly spaced coils except at the top. Triple rate?

The last two pics...the Metal Cloak rear bar and the axle cleared each other nicely when flexed (at least for my 3" longer rear shocks). This pics shows the suspension at rest on level ground.

Keep in mind the rear suspension travels up/down parallel with the rear coil spring/inverted U-bolt, which is in the background of the next-to-last pic. These at-rest pics make it difficult to see how that bendy rear bar and diff (the diff cover's bolted seam area) clear one another when one end of the axle is drooped or compressed.

No complaints, at all, but I want to point-out what I noticed about my experience so far.
 

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Yep, the front coils top 3 or so coils will stack on each other.
In the rear, RK revised their first run of triple rate coils. The first set of rear coils stacked just like the front. The lasted rev do not. Don't worry you have triple rate coils in the rear.

The coils wedges do help.. To a extent. 2 doors, and correcting pinion angle. Relocating the perches is the better way to go. JKS makes bolt on perches. Many will just grind down the tac welds, reposition the perch and re-weld. Of coarse this is another option if you don't want to run the wedges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
clown in brown brought me a new toy! :Thanx:

It sure is a small box...

Tonight I'm finally mounting the fifth Fierce Attitude onto my spare Pintler, so no time to focus on the interior (Sorry Christiaan, and sorry to my little Q-box). :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Mounted my 285/70/17 spare tire on my beadlock wheel today, finally pulled off the 18" oem spare. I took some pics to show how easy it can be. The biggest thing is to be aware and not ruin a good wheel and the soft, raw aluminum beadlock ring, plus the wheel is aluminum and the bolts are steel. Lots of patience and slow going to have a happy ending.

The first pic is the TPMS separated from the valve stem for pulling through the hole, get a valve stem tool/puller.

Second pic shows the valve stem installed and ready for a TPMS, this is inside the wheel with the tire bead pushed off to the side for access to the valve stem.

Third is the final result for the TPMS/valve stem. I think that Torx is a T-10 or a T-7.5, very tiny. Don't forget to tighten the inner valve, if there's even one inside the valve stem, check to be sure. It'll be obvious if there's not a valve inside the stem, when you try to inflate the tire and nothing happens! lol. That tire-bead can damage the TPMS if the tire-bead is pushed against it while handling the sloppy wheel and tire combo, its not inflated and the wheel flops around in the tire.

Fourth pic is the BIG MONEY view! Getting that outer bead to slip down around the wheel is not easy, needs a lot of sun and/or an extra set of hands. The last 8 inches or so is a real bear, the rest of the tire wants to slip back over the top of the wheel. All ready to bolt the beadlock ring down! Some tires may be easier to manipulate than others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Continuing with the tire install...

First pic shows a smidgen of anti-seize in each threaded hole.

Next pic shows all the bolts/washers lightly threaded-in, to start the gradual tightening around the ring. Each bolt gets a slight turn to keep the bead ring level as it tightens down against the tire bead.

Third pic shows the bolts snugged-torqued and the ring all the way down. Ready for some compressed air and a Jeep to spin it , or a tail gate to haul it around. :bop:

I got this new spare mounted on my tail gate, in the dark. Feels good to finally have the wheel/tire project done. Tomorrow I'll get a tail gate pic with the spare installed. I have aftermarket tire bumps to install also, this new tire/wheel is just shy of making contact with the oem bumpers.
 

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Maybe you should consider a tire carrier !? I got mine as soon as I went with 33, scared of destroying the tail gate and I don't trust the teraflex HD hinges lol for w.e. reason

I guess that also mean new rear bumper

Nice build so far ! Time to get her dirty !!! Cmon don't tell me you are s mall crawler...can't be with that pretty girl under your but !
 

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You know, I've been thinking about the plinter but still unsure. I want/need beadlock (unseated a tire this summer) but not sure of the look...I don't hate them, I don't like them, I don't know actually. Never seen them in real so still indecisive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Thanks Gunner, Me too, they look much better in real life.

Fenxx, yes the BL version of Pintlers look way better than the non-BL Pintlers, just my .02. And, no my Jeep has not gotten dirty yet lol. I don't plan to beat on it or max flex, but here in FL its more about MUD and those shallow puddles that get deep real fast! I do get out to a couple remote areas to shoot/fish/camp a few times a year. This Jeep is about those times.

I've seen a few JKs with Pintlers and prefer the BL version much more. I do think the non-BL Pintlers also look better in real life. I'm pretty sure BL Pintlers are discontinued for awhile, if not forever.

The only thing I don't like about them is that the aluminum wheel has no steel/threaded inserts. Steel bolts on aluminum threads can lead to problems if you're not careful, not to mention there was quite a bit of metal shavings inside the threaded holes in the wheels--a recipe for disaster/cross threads in the soft aluminum (well, aluminum would feel soft if you're one of the many steel allen-head bolts).

I used a compressor to blow the shavings out, wear safety goggles and keep your mouth shut lol.
 

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Yea I looked it up and there are no longer available. Aluminium and steel should never contact each other as I will cause corrosion on both, this is called galvanic corrosion, so yea a little weird from aev, I've heard about the shaving in the hole before. Manufacturer are saving money by skipping steps. Not good. But since the BL plinter are no longer available, no chance I will see it on mine lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I know one online store that had four NIB last week. You have to put anti-seize in the threaded holes to prevent/reduce galv corrosion.

The other good thing about them iirc is they are the lightest weight beadlock wheel. If you do zero mall crawling lol and you want stupid-proof, then get something that has steel inserts along the bead/ring or something more like a true 2-piece wheel aka Hutchinson Rock Monsters. I just couldn't justify those for my purposes and the cost, but I did want.
 

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Good advice, I'm not the mall crawler type lol my Jeep is a recreative/off road use only (even if it is brand new-ish) I got 2 other truck so when I take my baby out, its sure not to go to the one mall we got here in grande prairie, alberta.

I haven't done much research on beadlock and all the different option out there.

I was gonna go with the same shock but I couldn't justify a remote reservoir shock for my use. Unless you want to go fast in rough terrain which is not what I do.

Again, really nice build !
 

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Love those leather grab handles.... going to look into a set for myself.

What kind of beads did you use? Any issues with balance so far?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Curious why you went with RK lift and metal clock track bar? Why didn't you go all metal cloak?
I wanted to try the newer RK triple rate for front and back coils. I understood the RK coils did not touch at the top, but they do, but only the first 2, maybe three (dead coil/spacer effect, but with more droop/flex). Was trying to avoid that since I don't plan to be flexing it out. I also wanted great handling and not "too" harsh of a ride, if that's even possible. RK's coils came pretty close to being perfect, for me.

The RK rear TB bracket required/recommended welding after install, and the MC rear bar and bracket was much beefier and seems like a better design in general-NO welding of the MC rear TB bracket either. I posted some decent camparo pics on the first page. Good question though. In hindsight, I may have gone with MC for everything except for my BDS Fox 2.0s, which are working out great.
 
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