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Discussion Starter #1
Hi fellas,
I recently picked up a 2015 Freedom Edition JKU. I know that the Oscar Mike package included the stars, logos, and the different seats but what was upgraded in the drivetrain?
I thought I remembered reading that the FE had the Rubi transfer case, and possibly a slight lift but I've searched and can't find this info now!

Here's mine - I'm mainly wondering if it had a small factory lift, if someone added a lift, or if this is stock?!? These are 35's on it. I do know it has Rough Country shocks and a Rough Country dual steering stabalizer, however the dealership I bought it from (A new Jeep & Dodge Dealer) replaced all 4 shocks, brakes, and rotors before I bought it.

Thanks for any help!
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I don't believe the Freedom Edition came with a lift. If I remember correctly it had 17" black wheels, which I see are replaced on yours, painted fender flairs like the Sahara, a gas door, leather trimmed seats and power windows. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't believe the Freedom Edition came with a lift. If I remember correctly it had 17" black wheels, which I see are replaced on yours, painted fender flairs like the Sahara, a gas door, leather trimmed seats and power windows. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info, yes I forgot the fuel door.
Hmm... Anyone have any idea by looking if mine is lifted? I'm guessing so since the 35's don't rub!
I'm wondering if this is the Rough County 2" lift and that's why the dealer put the RC shocks on vs regular ones that they would have already had in stock?
 

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Nice looking Jeep!

The 23F package (Freedom Edition) is based on a Sport. There's not much on it that you couldn't put on a regular Sport. So you have 3.21 gears (unless 3.73 were added separate), the standard Sport t-case, engine, trans, etc. No lift, and like I said, nothing really different than any other Sport. I'll include a pic of what the 23F package included below.

So to fit 35s someone added a lift. FWIW Rough Country lifts are about the cheapest, and their shocks fail pretty quickly. Likely why the dealer had to replace them already. If it were my Jeep I'd make a plan to upgrade those parts.


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Also, you can enter your VIN on Jeep's website and it will tell you everything your Jeep came with. LINK
Thank you So MUCH!! This is extremely helpful! And thanks for the heads up on the RC lifts. This one will probably only see on road use, with very light occasional off road. Any good off road adventures will be with my 2dr Rubi :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also, you can enter your VIN on Jeep's website and it will tell you everything your Jeep came with. LINK
Any thoughts on how much lift this has, based on those being 35's? Or how/ where to measure to determine my lift height?
I measured the tires and the are actually only about 33.25"
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That rear bumper/tire carrier is not OEM...
Yup, he had the dealer install Rubicon Recon bumpers at 900 miles. I'm the 2nd owner, and he took it to the dealer for almost everything so they gave me page after page of records 🙂
He changed the oil every 5k or less (it only has 44k on it). The only thing that I don't see a record of is the lift & wheels and tires. I know it's not a Rubi, but I love it!
 

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you do not have a rubicon 4.1 t/c it is a 2.72.1 take a photo of your suspension and we will tell you what you have. show shocks, coils, swaybar links etc.
 

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this will show your lift height.
 

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some where around 3" lift you have low quality lift. You need to address your sway bar links as they are way too short and you need to add some bumpstops and something to correct caster ie lower adjustable control arms or geo brackets.
 

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That looks to be a 2.5" lift, from which you got 3" of lift up front.
As mentioned, not a quality lift. I would be curious to see what they did for caster correction, if anything. You may want to have it aligned, and pay attention to what the caster reading is. Without non-stock parts you can't change caster. But if caster is low it will not drive as well as it can. Two common ways to add caster are longer or adjustable lower front control arms and geometry brackets. Avoid cam bolts. I would recommend the geometry brackets, as they not only adjust caster they also correct the control arm angle which improves the way the suspension works. That allows the suspension to absorb bumps better, resulting in a better ride. Longer or adjustable control arms only correct caster, they cannot correct the angle of the control arms.
And buy some front quick disconnect sway bar links that are longer, or buy new rear sway bar links and use the old ones up front.
I hate those dual steering stabilizer set ups. I would remove that. A normal single steering stabilizer works just fine as long as caster and everything else is correct. But that's me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
some where around 3" lift you have low quality lift. You need to address your sway bar links as they are way too short and you need to add some bumpstops and something to correct caster ie lower adjustable control arms or geo brackets.
Thanks for the help, I appreciate it!
I dont know anything about lifts, so this is all new to me. What do you mean by adding bump stops, because it has bumpstops in the coils?
Also, what will the longer sway bar links do?
You mention adjustable control arms, it is adjustable, unless I'm looking at the wrong thing?
 

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you have stock control arms, you need additional bumpstops. your have stock jounces but with longer shocks you need additional bumpstop so your shocks don't bottom out and ruin the shocks. your sway bar is pointed down and it needs to be pointing up about 10-15 degrees so it allows you to articulate more without the risk of the swaybar flipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That looks to be a 2.5" lift, from which you got 3" of lift up front.
As mentioned, not a quality lift. I would be curious to see what they did for caster correction, if anything. You may want to have it aligned, and pay attention to what the caster reading is. Without non-stock parts you can't change caster. But if caster is low it will not drive as well as it can. Two common ways to add caster are longer or adjustable lower front control arms and geometry brackets. Avoid cam bolts. I would recommend the geometry brackets, as they not only adjust caster they also correct the control arm angle which improves the way the suspension works. That allows the suspension to absorb bumps better, resulting in a better ride. Longer or adjustable control arms only correct caster, they cannot correct the angle of the control arms.
And buy some front quick disconnect sway bar links that are longer, or buy new rear sway bar links and use the old ones up front.
I hate those dual steering stabilizer set ups. I would remove that. A normal single steering stabilizer works just fine as long as caster and everything else is correct. But that's me.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help. The crazy thing is this one actually drives and rides great, MUCH better than my 2dr Rubicon with 4". I just had it aligned at a 4x4 specialty shop, and the go the caster corrected. It drives much better than it did, but the JKU still drives WAY better!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
you have stock control arms, you need additional bumpstops. your have stock jounces but with longer shocks you need additional bumpstop so your shocks don't bottom out and ruin the shocks. your sway bar is pointed down and it needs to be pointing up about 10-15 degrees so it allows you to articulate more without the risk of the swaybar flipping.
Sorry for all the newb questions, but I am still confused on one thing. In post 14, is this not an adjustable bar for the caster?
 
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