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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I left my Wrangler in truly SUB-Zero temperatures @ O'Hare Airport, during the big freeze we had back in Jan of this year & upon firing her up, after sitting there in, quite literally, negative 15 degree temps, for 23 DAYS, my check engine light pops on & throws code P06DA. From reading, has to do with oil pump/oil pump solenoid, but also have a slight oil leak as well...

I have searched high & low, and being that it's the 3.6L Penta w/ that stupid plastic oil filter housing that I've seen numerous service bulletins on, appears the slow leak is coming from the base of that filter housing...

As for the P06DA code, I've been watching my oil pressure readout & from my understanding, my year JKU has essentially 2x modes for the pump. Low & High Pressure. At times while driving it can go as low 30 psi, but when I give it gas, it can shoot as high as 90 psi! I'm fairly certain that's not normal, but honestly, I've never really paid attention to the oil pressure readout, well, until I recently needed to...

My gut is telling me that I've got 2x separate issues, the 1st, that stupid plastic filter housing that is well documented in leaking from the base & then either the oil pump solenoid is stuck in high pressure mode or pump itself has gone bad?

Has anyone had experience with this code and/or the stupid oil filter housing leak issue & have any pointers, thoughts, ideas of next steps/troubleshooting? Any feedback would be so greatly appreciated!

Thanks & all the best!
 

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As for the P06DA code, I've been watching my oil pressure readout & from my understanding, my year JKU has essentially 2x modes for the pump. Low & High Pressure. At times while driving it can go as low 30 psi, but when I give it gas, it can shoot as high as 90 psi! I'm fairly certain that's not normal, but honestly, I've never really paid attention to the oil pressure readout, well, until I recently needed to...

Your understanding of the oil pump is correct. Also your oil pressures seem normal to me based on the conditions you were driving.

Here is how I'd address it and for what it's worth I have done the oil filter housings and oil pressure sensors but never had to do an oil pump but have researched them some. I'd get a Mopar oil filter housing and install it. That will come with a new oil pressure sensor as well. Also change your oil, use only the factory rated oil and a Mopar or high end filter.

Clear codes and see if it comes back. If it comes back, then you will likely need to do the oil pump. Usually it's the oil pump solenoid that goes bad, not the mechanics of the pump. But if you are in there, you do the pump that comes with a solenoid. Again, use Mopar cause it's too much work to put a questionable after market in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Your understanding of the oil pump is correct. Also your oil pressures seem normal to me based on the conditions you were driving.

Here is how I'd address it and for what it's worth I have done the oil filter housings and oil pressure sensors but never had to do an oil pump but have researched them some. I'd get a Mopar oil filter housing and install it. That will come with a new oil pressure sensor as well. Also change your oil, use only the factory rated oil and a Mopar or high end filter.

Clear codes and see if it comes back. If it comes back, then you will likely need to do the oil pump. Usually it's the oil pump solenoid that goes bad, not the mechanics of the pump. But if you are in there, you do the pump that comes with a solenoid. Again, use Mopar cause it's too much work to put a questionable after market in there.
Thank you for your response!

So, yeah, the 1st thing I tried, and failed with, was changing the oil, using Royal Purple & a K&N filter. No dice...

Looks like the next step will be replacing the Oil Filter Housing. After doing a search on that part it appears the latest revision from Mopar is '68105583AF'? Also found countless threads about how this part is VERY common to fail (probably why they're on revision 'F' already) & wondered if anyone here has had it replaced outside of warranty, based on the numerous service bulletins & issues surrounding this plastic housing?

It also states that "It is also recommended to replace 6 upper & 6 lower intake gaskets," so sounds like a real PITA, although I likely need to remove the upper & lower to get to this part....likely why they recommend replacing those at same time?
 

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Yes, you remove the upper & lower intake manifolds to get to the oil cooler, so the gaskets are super simple to swap out. Typically if the oil pressure sensor at the cooler fails you get a P0520 code.

Check the wiring and connection going to the oil pump solenoid before tearing it all apart. The wiring goes to a connector at the right front of the engine:
4488030


4488031


4488032
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, you remove the upper & lower intake manifolds to get to the oil cooler, so the gaskets are super simple to swap out. Typically if the oil pressure sensor at the cooler fails you get a P0520 code.

Check the wiring and connection going to the oil pump solenoid before tearing it all apart. The wiring goes to a connector at the right front of the engine:
View attachment 4488030

View attachment 4488031

View attachment 4488032
Thank you for sending such detailed info on over!

Knowing I'm 95% certain I've got that oil leak coming from that stupid plastic oil cooler/filter housing, would you recommend replacing that either way? Forgive my ignorance, but if that filter housing is leaking, new gaskets more than likely wouldn't fix the leak anyways, and knowing it'll be a decently PITA project, might as well have the full part in hand to replace, rather than dick around with gaskets & such? Just from all the reading I've done on this part, seems that even without over tightening the 12ft lbs the cap requires, it's still plastic, so basically prone to crack & at 102K miles, probably makes sense to replace, rather than try just gasket replacement?

Also, seeing as though I literally just did an oil change with $48 worth of Royal Purple & a K&N filter, can this job be done without losing all the fresh oil/filter/etc. or should I be draining the oil, otherwise ending up with a giant oily mess? I also read somewhere to have ATF on hand as well? Am I going to lose ATF from this filter assembly as well? I also, just literally did a fluid/filter swap on the transmission, so would hate to lose out on everything I did there as well...
 

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Do not attempt to change the oil filter housing yourself - it is a royal pain in the ass.
I just replaced one and end up in the dealership because all the trouble in there, I would rather get some of the experts to get me at least some years of warranty. Did I say pain in the ass? :)
 

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Do not attempt to change the oil filter housing yourself - it is a royal pain in the ass.
I just replaced one and end up in the dealership because all the trouble in there, I would rather get some of the experts to get me at least some years of warranty. Did I say pain in the ass? :)
I didn't think it was that bad but I am "tooled up" to do these kind of repairs. The worse part was cleaning up the oil that was in the engine valley. Had to wad up little bits of paper towel and use grab the with long needle nose pliers to absorb the oil. Most of the difficulty is managing the wiring harness and clips.


Thank you for sending such detailed info on over!

Knowing I'm 95% certain I've got that oil leak coming from that stupid plastic oil cooler/filter housing, would you recommend replacing that either way? Forgive my ignorance, but if that filter housing is leaking, new gaskets more than likely wouldn't fix the leak anyways, and knowing it'll be a decently PITA project, might as well have the full part in hand to replace, rather than dick around with gaskets & such? Just from all the reading I've done on this part, seems that even without over tightening the 12ft lbs the cap requires, it's still plastic, so basically prone to crack & at 102K miles, probably makes sense to replace, rather than try just gasket replacement?
The filter housing usually leaks from the bottom where the gaskets/orings are. Generally you don't replace those, you replace the entire unit. I suspect it's cause the housing may warp.

Also, seeing as though I literally just did an oil change with $48 worth of Royal Purple & a K&N filter, can this job be done without losing all the fresh oil/filter/etc. or should I be draining the oil, otherwise ending up with a giant oily mess? I also read somewhere to have ATF on hand as well? Am I going to lose ATF from this filter assembly as well? I also, just literally did a fluid/filter swap on the transmission, so would hate to lose out on everything I did there as well...
You do not need to change the oil so you shouldn't waste it. You will have to drain the coolant down so expect that. The oil filter housing/cooler runs coolant through it. No ATF runs in it.

Like previously mentioned, you will need a set of intake gaskets. Also a good time to do spark plugs since you have the intake off. Look for some youtube videos by MotorCity Mechanic. He has lots of 3.6 engine ones that walks you through most of the procedure.
 

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I didn't think it was that bad but I am "tooled up" to do these kind of repairs. The worse part was cleaning up the oil that was in the engine valley. Had to wad up little bits of paper towel and use grab the with long needle nose pliers to absorb the oil. Most of the difficulty is managing the wiring harness and clips.

The filter housing usually leaks from the bottom where the gaskets/orings are. Generally you don't replace those, you replace the entire unit. I suspect it's cause the housing may warp.
My hats off to you sir! I am also tooled up but lack of patience :)
 

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... so basically prone to crack & at 102K miles, probably makes sense to replace, rather than try just gasket replacement?
...
Also, seeing as though I literally just did an oil change with $48 worth of Royal Purple & a K&N filter, can this job be done without losing all the fresh oil/filter/etc. or should I be draining the oil, otherwise ending up with a giant oily mess? I also read somewhere to have ATF on hand as well? Am I going to lose ATF from this filter assembly as well? I also, just literally did a fluid/filter swap on the transmission, so would hate to lose out on everything I did there as well...
Yes, just go ahead and replace the entire cooler assembly. It is a tedious, PITA job, but it is not too difficult. You will not get into the ATF at all. Since yours is leaking, you will likely contaminate your fresh oil when you pull off the cooler, so it is best to do an oil change.

See my tips & comments on the job here:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks all for the guidance here!

About to pull the trigger on the Mopar OEM cooler '68105583AF' but fairly certain it does not come with the gaskets necessary for the job & having a bit of trouble figuring out the correct Mopar part# for these gaskets. I found '05184331AC' but there's a lot of discussion on the color these gaskets should be. Appear these are blue, but I've seen orange & then, supposedly, the newest revision part# is black? Can't seem to find exactly what I should be ordering alongside the Mopar cooler.

Anyone know which gasket(s) part# I should be buying alongside the OEM/Mopar cooler to ensure I have everything I need once I dig into this fun project? Thanks again to all!
 

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Thanks all for the guidance here!

About to pull the trigger on the Mopar OEM cooler '68105583AF' but fairly certain it does not come with the gaskets necessary for the job & having a bit of trouble figuring out the correct Mopar part# for these gaskets. I found '05184331AC' but there's a lot of discussion on the color these gaskets should be. Appear these are blue, but I've seen orange & then, supposedly, the newest revision part# is black? Can't seem to find exactly what I should be ordering alongside the Mopar cooler.

Anyone know which gasket(s) part# I should be buying alongside the OEM/Mopar cooler to ensure I have everything I need once I dig into this fun project? Thanks again to all!

The only gaskets you should need are for the intakes that you pull off. You can go the OEM route but I just get a Felpro kit. They make an excellent product. OEM typically you have to buy them individually. Felpro you get all 12 (6 upper and 6 lower). Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QK4XRR8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_X7RX6MT8840E6JCHM2HT

The OEM oil cooler has all the right seals and gaskets attached.

I also purchased some of replacement wire clips. Always seems to break some when you pull them out. This is what I got:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CBNZTNB/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_70W3CA66P25DWE9HYP73?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 

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About to pull the trigger on the Mopar OEM cooler '68105583AF' but fairly certain it does not come with the gaskets necessary for the job & having a bit of trouble figuring out the correct Mopar part# for these gaskets.
The cooler is getting very difficult to find. If you find someplace that actually has them in stock, consider yourself lucky.

The manifold gaskets are Item 1 and Item 5 shown here:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yep...I literally placed an order for the 'F' revision cooler & within 15 minutes the company cancelled my order, as there is a 2+ month lead time on that part right now! Was wondering why eBay had listings for $400 - $600 for the part!

I finally broke down & am going to have a reputable shop do the job, using an aftermarket cooler, but with a 2YR warranty on it, so I guess that'll buy me 24 months until the thing breaks again... and price for the job? $400 for parts & labor inclusive, so not too bad a deal, even though I would, of course, prefer the Mopar sku.

Thanks to everyone that posted & provided guidance! Sincerely appreciate it! All the best!
 
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