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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone!

So my wife informed me that on her way to work this morning her 2015 JKUR was blowing cold air instead of heat. This is the first time in months that she's used the heat but it's something that needs sorted as she drives my 15mo old daughter 30 minutes every morning so I can't have her freezing when it really starts to get cold out.

I've been doing a bit of research and I'm just about perplexed on where to begin. I know there are some problems with casting sand but I haven't been able to find anyone with a 2015 that's been effected. Could that still be my problem?

I'm also fairly sure I'm just out of warranty. I believe we had a 5yr/50k and she's got just over 52k on the clock right now, of course. So what's the cost of this repair look like to have a shop do it? Has anyone replaced their core in their own? I'm a little wary of that as I know the whole dash essentiallbhas to come out.

Any help you guys can provide would be immensely useful. I'm sorry if this has been discussed as nauseum, thebthreads I was able to find are just fairly old so I didn't know if there's been any new or more recent info out there to help me out. Thanks a lot!
 

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I believe the '15s all use HOAT. I just picked some up from the dealer when mine needed to be topped off, and remember it matched the spec in the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes and no. If it's low, I'd wonder what the reason is. There's some posts here in the forum regarding radiator issues. Might be worth a look if you find that it is low.
Good point, if it ends up being low I guess I'll start troubleshooting that, thanks for the help.
 

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Good point, if it ends up being low I guess I'll start troubleshooting that, thanks for the help.
FIRST OF ALL - 2015 WRANGLERS DO NOT USE HOAT Anti-freeze - they use OAT - DO NOT MIX.

Second - I just went through this last week. My guess is that the blend door actuator on the driver side is stuck. Here is an easy test to help you where to start.

Get in the Jeep and turn it on, temp dial on cold (NO AC) and turn the fan all the way to high. Make sure the air is set to blow out of the upper vents (not floor, defrost or a mix). Turn the radio off, windows up, doors closed, top on. You want to be in a quiet space. Then, turn the temp dial from full cold to full heat very quickly. You should notice a change in sound briefly as the blend door opens to allow the air to move over the heat exchanger.

You'll know the sound. If it makes that sound like the air is temporarily restricted - you will have ruled out the blend door motor/actuator.

Do this test and report back.
 

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FIRST OF ALL - 2015 WRANGLERS DO NOT USE HOAT Anti-freeze - they use OAT - DO NOT MIX


I stand corrected. Never rely on an aging memory...

MOPAR 10 year/150,000 Mile Formula OAT, Chrysler Material Standard MS-12106

(per the manual in my '15)
 

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The key is that the label should say 10 year/150,000 miles on it. If it only says 5 year that is the wrong type.

Don't go by the colors in any U.S. posts, as it has been noted that the European color is different.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
FIRST OF ALL - 2015 WRANGLERS DO NOT USE HOAT Anti-freeze - they use OAT - DO NOT MIX.

Second - I just went through this last week. My guess is that the blend door actuator on the driver side is stuck. Here is an easy test to help you where to start.

Get in the Jeep and turn it on, temp dial on cold (NO AC) and turn the fan all the way to high. Make sure the air is set to blow out of the upper vents (not floor, defrost or a mix). Turn the radio off, windows up, doors closed, top on. You want to be in a quiet space. Then, turn the temp dial from full cold to full heat very quickly. You should notice a change in sound briefly as the blend door opens to allow the air to move over the heat exchanger.

You'll know the sound. If it makes that sound like the air is temporarily restricted - you will have ruled out the blend door motor/actuator.

Do this test and report back.
OK thanks for the tip on the OAT vs. HOAT.

Secondly, I tried the test you described and got nothing. There's not change in noise nor is there a sound like the air is being restricted. I recorded it so you can give it a look and double check my math haha!

https://youtu.be/gLopHlhnBTA

So is that it? Do I change out the blend door motor/actuator? Is that a big job?
 

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Okay - well - it may just be jammed and you need to un-jam it yourself - that was my issue. To change it out if it is indeed bad is not necessarily a "big" job, just a royal PITA...

Here's the blend door sound I recorded to show you how it will change when you turn on the heat.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCileVmXiEc

And here is a video of the blend door motor - it's under the dash on the driver side - real pain in the rear to get to. I used my iPhone selfie camera to view them. The blend door motor/actuator arms are the white pieces that move when you turn the heat on - it opens the door.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-OTcCbgLDU

The arm of the blend door (white) sits in a channel of the actuator piece (other white piece) via a tiny tab I was able to use a screw driver to pop it off and then I just manually moved the actutor arm one click - and it started working.

This is my other post about it...
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/no-heat-this-morning-blend-door-hvac-controller-or-heater-core-2127129.html

This is the video that helped me - to show you how it goes together - but this guy took his entire dash apart - and I suggest not doing that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXvpr3j42cg&t=106s

Hope this helps you!
 

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Glad to have helped. I was just there so i was happy to save some money and frustration myself and glad it was the same issue.

It's much easier to unlock it than replace it yourself or fork over the money to have it replaced - especially when you see what's involved.

Ans drink one for me and pay it forward.
 

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Glad to have helped. I was just there so i was happy to save some money and frustration myself and glad it was the same issue.

It's much easier to unlock it than replace it yourself or fork over the money to have it replaced - especially when you see what's involved.

Ans drink one for me and pay it forward.

Thanks for your efforts with the links and info. This morning was the first time I had turned on my heat since spring. No heat at all. Thanks to this info, I was able to quickly confirm blend door was not moving and persuade it to move again. I only have 9800 miles on my 15 jku but am thankful to avoid a trip to the dealership.
Tools needed for me were a 10mm nutdriver and a flashlight. Mine was blocked by a module so I had to do it from the bottom. My jeep has nav, Sirius, remote start, auto temp control and some other stuff jeeps probably shouldn't have. I assume it was the module for one of those blocking my view.
Anyway, thanks again for the help and info.
 

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Thanks for your efforts with the links and info. This morning was the first time I had turned on my heat since spring. No heat at all. Thanks to this info, I was able to quickly confirm blend door was not moving and persuade it to move again. I only have 9800 miles on my 15 jku but am thankful to avoid a trip to the dealership.
Tools needed for me were a 10mm nutdriver and a flashlight. Mine was blocked by a module so I had to do it from the bottom. My jeep has nav, Sirius, remote start, auto temp control and some other stuff jeeps probably shouldn't have. I assume it was the module for one of those blocking my view.
Anyway, thanks again for the help and info.
Glad to have helped with the videos. If I remember correctly, the climate control sensor is right there where you'd need to get access to - so, makes sense you had to go in from the bottom - but, the end result is still the same. I make a point to turn the heat on every day now just to make sure it doesn't bind anymore.
 

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Maybe get some Vaseline (or KY :D) and lube up the white piece that slides around.
Petroleum based products can be a problem with some plastics. I use a graphite grease that is declared plastic and nylon safe. I've used it on both the gears inside the blend air drive and on the slot and pin of the actuator arm.
 
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