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Driving in Florida heat (96) and A/C started blowing a little warm air, then temp gauge rises past 3/4 and red indicator light on dash came on, so I turned off A/C and turned on heater and light went off and temp dropped back down. It appears fan doesn't come on and now A/C cycles off and on and not cooling all the time. Today idling with hood up checking everything, I have 12v at 3 wire plug to fan for radiator, but as temp got above 230 no fan kicked on and I shut vehicle off and almost immediately it sounded like a pressure relief valve blew out underneath and I expected to see antifreeze pouring out, but not a drop. I am thinking high pressure built up in A/C and vented somewhere? Anybody ever heard of such?
 

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I don't think the fan kicks on high until 236, but it sounds like you have some other issues at play.

Antifreeze is full? No coolant smell?
 

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The fan should come on around 226*, and earlier if the AC is on. If it doesn't, then either the fan is shot, or it's not receiving a signal to come on. Unfortunately, testing a PWM fan not as simple as applying 12v to it and seeing if it comes on. You might be able to find a test procedure online or in a shop manual. Terrific troubleshooting article here:

https://realjenius.com/2018/06/28/pentastar_radiator_fan/

Mark

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The cooling fan kicks on at 226 degrees. With the A/C on, in the recirculate setting, the engine cooling fan will run continuously.

Your issue is that your cooling fan is not running, causing your high coolant temps. Plus your a/c head pressure is so high, because of lack of the fan pulling air through the grill condencer.

You probably have a bad fan module, or fan motor. You had better get it into your dealer, before you damage the engine.
 

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The cooling fan kicks on at 226 degrees. With the A/C on, in the recirculate setting, the engine cooling fan will run continuously.

Your issue is that your cooling fan is not running, causing your high coolant temps. Plus your a/c head pressure is so high, because of lack of the fan pulling air through the grill condencer.

You probably have a bad fan module, or fan motor. You had better get it into your dealer, before you damage the engine.
EXACTLY what i need to do.
 

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My bad, 226 it is.

FWIW when I had the smell of coolant on the '14 it was 2 things.
  • The driver's side top of the radiator (under the shroud)
  • Thermostat housing had a pinhole leak

Good luck! :thumb:
 

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EXACTLY what i need to do.
Might want to read the article linked above and do a little troubleshooting first. That guy fixed his for free, and a couple of commenters did, too. BTW, is yours throwing the fan code?

BBS, how "pinhole" was your thermostat housing leak? I'm chasing a coolant smell on mine, but it holds pressure reasonably well (drops 1.5psi in 5 minutes), and the radiator is new, all aluminum and leak-free, as far as I can tell. I am wondering if I see coolant stains on the thermostat housing molding mark, though. If so, they are tiny.

Mark

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BBS, how "pinhole" was your thermostat housing leak? I'm chasing a coolant smell on mine, but it holds pressure reasonably well (drops 1.5psi in 5 minutes), and the radiator is new, all aluminum and leak-free, as far as I can tell. I am wondering if I see coolant stains on the thermostat housing molding mark, though. If so, they are tiny.

Mark

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Mine looked like this:



 

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Most helpful! Thanks! If mine is leaking, at all, the stain is about 1/100 the size of the one in your photos. Same place, though, which suggests I should keep a close eye on it.

Thanks again!

Mark

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Dropped off at dealer this morning. They called and said fan is shot and it lists for $615 and 2 hours labor for a mere $850.
 

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Most helpful! Thanks! If mine is leaking, at all, the stain is about 1/100 the size of the one in your photos. Same place, though, which suggests I should keep a close eye on it.

Thanks again!

Mark

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If it is leaking at all, I suggest that you change, because it will probably only get worse over time. Plus with any leak, your system will start to loose it's vacum draw back from your coolant bottle when the engine is cooling down. Therefore allowing some air to enter your cooling system, which one does not want. Your call..

Dropped off at dealer this morning. They called and said fan is shot and it lists for $615 and 2 hours labor for a mere $850.
Ouch..but that is better than burning up your engine..
 

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If it is leaking at all, I suggest that you change, because it will probably only get worse over time. Plus with any leak, your system will start to loose it's vacum draw back from your coolant bottle when the engine is cooling down. Therefore allowing some air to enter your cooling system, which one does not want. Your call..
Agreed, but I'm not at all sure that it's leaking. I may put a little JB Weld on that spot and see if the smell is affected. If it is, I'll replace the housing.

Mark

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Dropped off at dealer this morning. They called and said fan is shot and it lists for $615 and 2 hours labor for a mere $850.
out of the 100k mile warranty? If not just go aftermarket and install.. not that bad from what I understand.
 

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out of the 100k mile warranty? If not just go aftermarket and install.. not that bad from what I understand.
No one offers one that I can find. Mishimoto used to but no longer. Derale is only for TJ/LJs. Griffin offers a fan/radiator combo but not separate. Crown offers one but that's it. (Spent an hour looking yesterday)
 

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No one offers one that I can find. Mishimoto used to but no longer. Derale is only for TJ/LJs. Griffin offers a fan/radiator combo but not separate. Crown offers one but that's it. (Spent an hour looking yesterday)


as noted rock auto has them $413 for the mopar unit.. and down to 230 for the off brand name..
 

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Sorry to confuse- I was referring to an upgraded aftermarket fan option. If it's not an improvement personally I'd just go Mopar. Jeeps have enough cooling issues as it is- not sure it's worth screwing with. But that's just me. You are right- there are OEM knock-offs available.
 

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It would be nice to have an 'upgrade' in the sense of achiving cooler coolant temperatures. However unfortunately that is not dependent on fan performance, but rather on the factory programming schedule of the fan engagement temperatures and these are set rather high by OEM design. So regardless of what fan is installed, if will only cool to the tune of the factory programmed values.
 
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