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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched the forum and Google for an answer to my dilemma without success: where to pull power for my 2nd switch. And in case you want or need to know, I have a '13 JK Sport with MT.

Here's the situation: the cabin toggle switch power for my first set of 3 KCs (which are located on a front bumper light bar) draws from the parking light fuse. I used a fuse tap for this and everything works great. Obviously, when I turn on my parking lights, I have power to the switch. This means I can run the KC's with parking lights on...otherwise, no power to switch. Exactly what I wanted.

I will be installing a second set of KCs on the window pillars. My question is can I splice into the original fuse tap I installed for the first set of KCs to power the 2nd switch? In other words, I'd like to re-create my power-on/off solution for this 2nd set of lights, but am worried that splicing into the fuse tap for a 2nd switch will overload something. I know the switches only pulls a couple amps each, and I have a 10a fuse to protect, but still not sure if its safe. Don't want to turn my JK into a "car-b-que" LOL.

I'm open to installing a second fuse tap - maybe to the rear license plate light? I haven't looked closely at that yet, but assume it is a separate circuit with it's own fuse? That light comes on with the parking lights so maybe that is the solution?

I look forward to your advice. Lots of great knowledge on this forum. Thanks in advance.
 

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I power my two dash switches from the dash power outlet which turns on and off with the ignition. I ran the power from the switches to fused relays that draw power from the battery.Whenever the key is on I can turn the lights on. If I turn the key off the switches and then relays lose power so no lights are left on.

You can see the switches and relays starting here:

https://youtu.be/QXWJmbYEOTI?t=39s

My lights are less than 30W each, so each one draws just over 2A @ 12VDC.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. I understand how the relay works, etc. what I'm trying to achieve is no power to switch EXCEPT when I have the lights on. So, I'm looking for either an acceptable 2nd source of power to the switch when the lights are on or, if splicing into the original tap fuse is/is not recommended.
 

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You would be money ahead to run your lights off an relay direct wired to the battery with fuse, then use the parking lights supplied switch to trigger the relay. You will get more light output and a safer install.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, the lights will be wired direct to battery with relay and in line fuse in between. No worries there. Again, I'm only talking about the switch that I will install. Thanks
 

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Yes, the lights will be wired direct to battery with relay and in line fuse in between. No worries there. Again, I'm only talking about the switch that I will install. Thanks
The amperage draw for the relay coils is almost nothing. The ones that I use draw .1 amp each which you can calculate by looking up the wattage draw on a data sheet for yours. Watts/volts=amps. You should have no trouble utilizing your existing setup by adding a second switch and just daisy chaining the power from the first switch. By having the relays contact directly connected to the battery with an in line fuse you are offloading the higher current load.
 
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