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Hey guys. I am planning on lifting my JKU this summer and adding some wheels and tires. I have read as much as I possibly can about the subject so far and I believe I have a decent basis of knowledge down.

A little backstory on my Jeep is that it is a 2017 Sahara and I have a loan on for the next 3 yrs so it will 100% be a pavement princess atleast until then. I drive about 80% highway and 20% city roads so I need something that isn’t flighty. I beat the hell out of my last jk off road and this one i’d like to build solely for the best on road ride. It has the stock 3.21 gearing and I’m aware this isn’t going to make the best ride on a 3” lift with heavy 35s but I can’t afford to do everything at once so I’m sure I can deal with it for a yr (I’m 25) until I can regear to 4.56. I’m planning to run plz don’t murder me 20x12 -44 on 35x13.50 toyo mts.

I am trying to keep it at a decent price but I also don’t want to cut any corners and sacrifice ride quality. I decided to go with the teraflex 3” lift because it sounds like 3.5” kits will take major changes and 2.5” kits don’t look right with the wheel and tire set up that I’m looking to run. After reading the boards I found that since I won’t be flexing ever I could just get the teraflex 3” base lift, Rancho geo brackets, exhaust spacer, yeti track bar, maybe some brake line drop brackets?, and falcon 3.1s or the fox resi non adj. shocks. This setup came out to $2,050. Then after searching online a bit I found that teraflex offered the ST/3 kit with the 3.1s or fox’s and I could pick it up for around $2700. Would I be better off spending the extra 600 bucks on the ST/3 kit with the 8 CA’s instead of geo brackets? Keep in mind I will never flex and don’t care about ground clearance. I just want the best ride on road and highway.

Next, will I need a DL flip kit? I know jks makes one for a good price I’m just not sure I’d need it with 3” and no wheeling ever. I don’t wanna buy unnecessary things. Same with the driveshaft. It sounds like I should be ok on the stocker atleast for a couple yrs as long as I don’t ever flex it. Am I right or misguided?

Last, I’ve narrowed it down to the falcon 3.1’s and the fox reservoir non adj. both resi shocks and seem comparable as well as in price point. I want no body roll on corners but also a soft ride not having to sacrifice one or the other. Any insight?

Sorry for the long post, theres just a lot of information and I’d like to build this so I don’t regret it in a couple yrs and have to redo. Thanks for any help guys and gals 🤙🏻
 

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IMO if you want the best on road ride you wouldn't run 20 inch wheels but that is your call. And to keep it as inexpensive as possible try this on for size:

AEV 2.5 inch Dual Sport Suspension - $1000
TeraFlex 1/2 inch front spacers - $30
TeraFlex 1/2 inch rear spacers - $60
Rancho Geo Brackets - $150

If this is a street vehicle I don't see needing to do any more that this. Maybe you will need exhaust spacers but won't know that until you install it. Possibility exist that maybe adjustable track bars may also be needed, unlikely. As long as this is a road queen you probably don't need a new front drive shaft. One other item I would add is the Griffin HD JK Steering Attenuator - $180.

At least based on what you have said this is the route I would go, $1420 all in.
 

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You stated "i’d like to build solely for the best on road ride" but your stated mods will not get you there.
  • 20" wheels, less sidewall and harsher ride
  • Toyo MTs, E rated tire and harsher ride
  • Falcon 3.1 and the FOX shocks are both firm
So it sounds like you're building for a "look" instead of the best on road ride.
My suggestions for on road ride would be to lower your wheel size to 17", go with a C rated (or less) tire, and change shocks. I love the Falcon 3.3 on both our Jeeps but they are firmer than other offerings. I've run FOX resi too and they are firm. With Falcon I would do the adjustable 3.3 for a 2 door (instead of 4 door), that will give you a bit softer ride and the ability to adjust.

I've run the ST3 and CT3 lifts from Teraflex, both are probably more than you need, but either one would be just fine.
If you want to save a buck I'd do the Teraflex 2.5" lift with Rancho 9000 shocks and Rancho control arm brackets. If it's not enough lift then throw on a 1/2" spacer.
A DL flip is not necessary and would not be a good mod for a 3" lift.
Since you're on road, run your factory DS until the boot tears, then run it a little longer and replace :)

Good luck (y)
 

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What they said.
You can run 35" tires with a 2.5" lift easily. Keep in mind that a 2.5" lift will typically lift 3" or more.
I like the AEV kit, it uses progressive / multi-rate springs. TF uses straight rate springs. That isn't so much good or bad, it just is. I like TF stuff, but if I was building a street Jeep I would lean towards AEV. Their 2.5" lift plus a set of Rancho geometry brackets and a longer set of rear sway bar links (unless you want to use the AEV sway bar link brackets) and you will have a nice riding Jeep.
Now, with those wheels (20") there is only so good it can ride. But that is on you.
 

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Another vote for AEV 2.5
I like my Mopar 2” but I have found myself second guessing if I should have gone with AEV.

what has you hooked on the 20’s?
They will ride harder and cost more.
 

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@Ryanoc22

AEV 2.5 with a 3/4" front coil spacer and a set of Teraflex 2.5" rear sway bar links and move the stock rear sway bar links to the front. Excellent setup for mostly DD and street use, but still very capable offroad. Fits 35's perfectly.

NO on 20" wheels... Horrible choice for ride quality.
 

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Another vote for AEV 2.5
I like my Mopar 2” but I have found myself second guessing if I should have gone with AEV.

what has you hooked on the 20’s?
They will ride harder and cost more.
@Main Line Willys Have you tried AEV or just wish you had? I admittedly have only tried a handful of suspension setups on JK's but know what I like and don't. It seems as though many of the popular lifts provide a more car like ride and that's fine, just not what I'm looking for. Curious as to where your Mopar lift falls short, or if it's a case of wanting to try AEV because you think it may be better. I fall into the category of wanting to try so I have first hand experience and may find something better. Of course, sometimes I find it's not and could have saved myself time and money. 😂
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Guys thank you very much for all of the recommendations so far! I believe that the aev 2.5” lift would probably ride the best but I really don’t like the look of it with 35’s (not bashing anyone who has this setup in any way) I just feel like the 3-3.5 inch looks like it fits a 35 better. What @Blue Baby Sound said is correct wether I’d like to admit it or not. I want this Jeep to ride great but I am also building it for looks. I’m 25 and want something to show off to my friends who have their big trucks with huge offset wheels.

Regardless, I ended up getting a killer deal on the teraflex 3” lift with the 4 flex arms, falcon 3.1s, and exhaust spacers for 1900 out the door. Praying to god this will ride like stock or better. The guy who I spoke to said the geo brackets aren’t great for 3” much better for 2-2.5” lifts so he recommended the flex arm kit. Does this sound right? Now that I’ve pulled the trigger I’m starting to wonder if I should’ve got the kit with all 8 flex arms or will it make no difference than the 4? I know the st/3 kit has 6. Should I get the other 4 or atleast the 2 other rears to match the st/3 for best possible ride?
 

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@boosthead - I had the opportunity to go for a short ride as passenger in an AEV lifted Jeep and it seemed pretty smooth.

Who knows, maybe it was tires or tire pressure. I just feel like my Jeep could handle a little better.
 

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Guys thank you very much for all of the recommendations so far! I believe that the aev 2.5” lift would probably ride the best but I really don’t like the look of it with 35’s (not bashing anyone who has this setup in any way) I just feel like the 3-3.5 inch looks like it fits a 35 better. What @Blue Baby Sound said is correct wether I’d like to admit it or not. I want this Jeep to ride great but I am also building it for looks. I’m 25 and want something to show off to my friends who have their big trucks with huge offset wheels.

Regardless, I ended up getting a killer deal on the teraflex 3” lift with the 4 flex arms, falcon 3.1s, and exhaust spacers for 1900 out the door. Praying to god this will ride like stock or better. The guy who I spoke to said the geo brackets aren’t great for 3” much better for 2-2.5” lifts so he recommended the flex arm kit. Does this sound right? Now that I’ve pulled the trigger I’m starting to wonder if I should’ve got the kit with all 8 flex arms or will it make no difference than the 4? I know the st/3 kit has 6. Should I get the other 4 or atleast the 2 other rears to match the st/3 for best possible ride?
I am assuming you got the raised rear track bar mount, adjust front track bar, bump stops, sway bar links? The other issue you might have especially if this is a light build and the lift being 3.5 inches or taller is bump steer

FYI: Geo Brackets work for any lift height properly designed. MetalCloak uses them on the 4.5 and 5.5 inch lift kits.
 

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I am assuming you got the raised rear track bar mount, adjust front track bar, bump stops, sway bar links? The other issue you might have especially if this is a light build and the lift being 3.5 inches or taller is bump steer

FYI: Geo Brackets work for any lift height properly designed. MetalCloak uses them on the 4.5 and 5.5 inch lift kits.
yes the kit comes with all of those. And yes, that is definitely a concern for me. I’m not quite at 3.5” as I went for the teraflex 3” kit but I’d suspect that since I’ll be running a spare tire delete, steel bumpers but no winch, it may lift me up near that 3.5” mark. At that point I’d need a DL Flip but I was told but a few people that for the 3” kit I should be fine. I guess we will see. Still wondering if I should pick up the fixed rear lower CAs to go with the 4 flex arms. That way it would match the st/3 kit. Just not sure if that will do anything at all or just waste money
 

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What it will do is maintain your original wheel base. With adjustable you could actually stretch it a bit. Either will make for a better ride, reduces the angle of attack on the arms. But it is probably not a big deal.
 

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Guys thank you very much for all of the recommendations so far! I believe that the aev 2.5” lift would probably ride the best but I really don’t like the look of it with 35’s (not bashing anyone who has this setup in any way) I just feel like the 3-3.5 inch looks like it fits a 35 better. What @Blue Baby Sound said is correct wether I’d like to admit it or not. I want this Jeep to ride great but I am also building it for looks. I’m 25 and want something to show off to my friends who have their big trucks with huge offset wheels.

Regardless, I ended up getting a killer deal on the teraflex 3” lift with the 4 flex arms, falcon 3.1s, and exhaust spacers for 1900 out the door. Praying to god this will ride like stock or better. The guy who I spoke to said the geo brackets aren’t great for 3” much better for 2-2.5” lifts so he recommended the flex arm kit. Does this sound right? Now that I’ve pulled the trigger I’m starting to wonder if I should’ve got the kit with all 8 flex arms or will it make no difference than the 4? I know the st/3 kit has 6. Should I get the other 4 or atleast the 2 other rears to match the st/3 for best possible ride?
This sort of information scares me. Not only is that not correct, it is backwards. The geometry brackets become more a benefit as you lift higher. I have 6 of eight adjustable control arms, but I still run the brackets because the correct the geometry of the control arms. That allows for a better ride, on road and off.
I hope it was just a mis-communication on the geometry bracket comment. If you don't want brackets, fine. Get the arms. Plenty of people go that route. But is scares me to see in print something that is clearly wrong, and it does give me pause. Does he really think that?
 

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I want this Jeep to ride great but I am also building it for looks. I’m 25 and want something to show off to my friends who have their big trucks with huge offset wheels.
There's nothing wrong with building for a look, you just have to be willing to accept the consequences. In this case a harsher ride. But hopefully it will ride well enough to fit your needs.

That lift will be just fine for you, and don't worry about the additional arms, you're building a street Jeep. Off road they're important because when you start stuffing the back tires they can rub. If/when you decide to take the Jeep on hard terrain then you can add more arms later. For a street Jeep I'm still a fan of the brackets, but if you got fixed arms you shouldn't run them.

IMO don't compare your Jeep to the jacked up Bro trucks, they're not the same creature. And no amount of awesome Bro truck will compare to you pulling up with no top and no doors. Lets see them try that! :p


Here's some stuff you don't want to hear: it sounds like you'll end up with a heavy wheel/tire combo. That will (<not can, will) wear down the stock components, so be prepared to replace those items when they fail, somewhere between 20k and 60k miles. For me it was:
  • The rear axle shaft flanges bent first, they bend under excess weight. The solution is aftermarket chromoloy shafts.
  • After that my ball joints failed, solution is aftermarket stronger ball joints.
  • Then my drag link end and tie rods ends failed, solution is stronger aftermarket ones.
  • Then we have unit bearings, they will fail every so often and there's no solution other than to change them out when they fail.
^some people see those as negatives, but it's the consequences of running a heavy wheel/tire combo. And it won't be a big deal if you're prepared ($$) for it. All of those things can be done with a jack, jack stands and common hand tools. There are videos that will show you how and it will help you get to know your Jeep. (y)


If you you have really deep pockets do like my buddy did for SEMA this year, build a big Bro truck (I believe that's 36" wheels on 42" tires) and a Jeep LOL

 

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This sort of information scares me. Not only is that not correct, it is backwards. The geometry brackets become more a benefit as you lift higher. I have 6 of eight adjustable control arms, but I still run the brackets because the correct the geometry of the control arms. That allows for a better ride, on road and off.
I hope it was just a mis-communication on the geometry bracket comment. If you don't want brackets, fine. Get the arms. Plenty of people go that route. But is scares me to see in print something that is clearly wrong, and it does give me pause. Does he really think that?
I think it is classic upsell - GeoBrackets are much less than a flexarm kit.
 

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This sort of information scares me. Not only is that not correct, it is backwards. The geometry brackets become more a benefit as you lift higher. I have 6 of eight adjustable control arms, but I still run the brackets because the correct the geometry of the control arms. That allows for a better ride, on road and off.
I hope it was just a mis-communication on the geometry bracket comment. If you don't want brackets, fine. Get the arms. Plenty of people go that route. But is scares me to see in print something that is clearly wrong, and it does give me pause. Does he really think that?
@Ryanoc22

GM is absolutely correct here. The geo brackets are barely functioning properly at 2-2.5" of lift and start to really come in at 3.5 and above. Bigger lift, better results....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This sort of information scares me. Not only is that not correct, it is backwards. The geometry brackets become more a benefit as you lift higher. I have 6 of eight adjustable control arms, but I still run the brackets because the correct the geometry of the control arms. That allows for a better ride, on road and off.
I hope it was just a mis-communication on the geometry bracket comment. If you don't want brackets, fine. Get the arms. Plenty of people go that route. But is scares me to see in print something that is clearly wrong, and it does give me pause. Does he really think that?
No, I’m actually glad that you called that out. The guy at Morris 4x4 said the arms are more precise at 3” above and the geo brackets are better at 2-2.5”. He said the geo brackets only address the front and do nothing for the rear where the flex arms do.

That is where I had started with all of this conundrum. I had originally set up a teraflex 3 inch base lift with an adj track bar, Rancho geo brackets, exhaust spacer, and falcon shocks figuring this would give me the smoothest on road ride for the cheapest price....then I talked to the Morris guy and he talked me into the 3” kit with the 4 flex arms and the falcons. Are y’all telling me this is actually going to give me a worse on road ride than the original cheaper kit I had set up with the geo brackets🧐 very confused now
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Also not to add even more questions into the mix, but I see that evo offers a 3” enforcer lift with the plush coils. I could get the stage 2 kit with the 4 adjustable control arms and fox reservoirs for very close to the same price as I’m paying for the tf 3” with fixed flex arms and the falcon 3.1s. Would the evo and fox be a better option for soft road ride (like stock) or do I stay teraflex and falcon?
 
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