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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy. Now that I have had my JKU for about 4 days, I'm ready to ask another question to all you fellow Jeepers.

I notice that off the line my Jeep is pretty smooth. However, when I get to what feels like the second shift point, the Jeep really feels like it hits a bit of a wall in the throttle response. If I baby it and try to smoothly accelerate, it does shift, but not very smooth. If I don't think about it and just keep steady on the gas (no stomping) it also feels pretty rough at that shift point.

Does anyone else experience this? Could it just be the way this auto transmission is or the combination of 3.73 that creates less than ideal shifting characteristics?

I appreciate any insights you all might have.

Thanks.
 

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Rock-Rubber
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What happens when you drive hard?

There is something called a TC cable (throttle control I believe) that goes from the trans to the throttle body that has some adjustment to it. It could be out of adjustment. I believe your JK should have one. I just know from my TJ. You could check it out to see if it is loose, or if under warranty get it checked out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I find myself trying to baby the throttle when getting up to a moderate speed (30mph) to try and get it to shift smooth. Should I just ignore that and give it even throttle? Cause right now even throttle gets smooth...ramping engine....then lurching into the next gear and then smooth. Almost like it is running too high of an rpm before the shift. At higher speeds it isn't noticable, just in the going from a stop and getting to the 30ish mph range. Weird???:confused:
 

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Is the JK shifting 100% computer controlled? Sorry I am back in old tech land :wavey:
Yes, the throttle and trans mission are 100% fly by wire, no cables for either.
 

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Your auto tranny is still in its "learning" mode. It'll get better and better with time and miles (maybe 1000 miles or so?)

If it doesn't get better, you can reset everything by disconnecting the battery (Jeep Electronic Control Unit Reset - Quadratec) and start the learning over again.
during the "learning phase" should I be driving slow, driving like i stole it, or driving normal(in the middle). I have to touch the cables together I thought simply disconnecting the battery would suffice
 

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what did you figure out to be the problem? sadly, im having the same things happen to my 2010
 

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I think UpHillBill has the right answer. At least, I can tell you I had a problem with my shift points something like I THINK you describe. The rpm was normal in 1 then shift into 2. It held 2 almost no time. That is it did not "wind out" as I expected it should have in 2. So when I hit gear 3 the rpm was very low and the transmission seemed taxed. It felt like it need ed a downshift back to 2. It held 3 from the initial low power curve all the way up to what I considered a good rpm before shifting. All other gears shifted at what I considered a normal rpm wind out.

Somewhere between 1000 and 2000 miles I realized this was no longer and issue. My advise is drive it like you normally think you will drive it later. Occasionally give it some extra juice and make it wind through the gears.
 

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during the "learning phase" should I be driving slow, driving like i stole it, or driving normal(in the middle). I have to touch the cables together I thought simply disconnecting the battery would suffice
Drive like you normally would drive. The learning phase is always on.
 

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2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.

This step, does this mean touch the black cable with the red cable you just disconnected?
 

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I had the same issue with mine until I reset the shift points with a ProCal
 

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2months old but see if theres any more of us out there. I calibrated the rubi takeoffs several times from the stock 16s. The shift from second to third is horrible. It stalls back or freezes in rpm and acceleration for about a second before climbing to 3000 rpms then shifts to third. Happens 90% unless I floor it. In manual mode there are no problems between gears.
 

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Your auto tranny is still in its "learning" mode. It'll get better and better with time and miles (maybe 1000 miles or so?)

If it doesn't get better, you can reset everything by disconnecting the battery (Jeep Electronic Control Unit Reset - Quadratec) and start the learning over again.
This exactly. Start from the beginning and the let the computer re-learn your "new" driving habits.
 

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Mine did the same at first. I'm at 1400 miles now. Pretty damn smooth now. Just drive like you would normally. I did a few full throttle pulls also during the first 1000.
 

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how did you do that? You can change tire size and gear ratio (if you have the right gears) but I didn't think you could change shift points
he was probably talking about gear ratio. changing the gear ratio changes the trannies shift points. mine actually came from the dealership programmed for 3.21's but I had 3.73's.
 

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I had similar symptoms with 1st to 2nd shift, my RPM briefly spiked on the shift and then locked up hard resulting a definite lurch. Got worse over a month from subtle to anticipating it by backing off the gas to coast through the shift point to minimize the lurch. My final solution was a warranty rebuild targeting new piston seals. Had 22K miles on it when it happened.
 
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