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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Backed into my driveway and three warning lights popped on. The ABS, Traction control and the ESP light. Bad fuse(s)? Didn't drive any different, just picked up some pool chemicals about 5 miles each way. Never had this problem before.

Any help would be appreciated.

Bob
 

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Steering wheel off center/draglink or wheel speed sensor are most likely culprits.
 
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Most times any ABS issue will cause the traction and ESP codes and will also disable cruise control.

1st is it steady or intermittent?

For speed sensor issue:
If you can find a auto parts store with an OBS reader (HAS to be able to read ABS) or pay the ~$140 for your own reader, it will point you to which wheel to look at. Rear is super easy to do and the sensor is under $20 and are interchangeable between left & right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I pulled out of the driveway last night enroute to the local advance auto to have them scan the codes. Of course as soon as I pulled out the warning lights went out. So I just parked it. Gonna use it to go to work tomorrow night so we shall see whats going on. Thanks for the help so far.
 

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Well I pulled out of the driveway last night enroute to the local advance auto to have them scan the codes. Of course as soon as I pulled out the warning lights went out. So I just parked it. Gonna use it to go to work tomorrow night so we shall see whats going on. Thanks for the help so far.
Even though the lights are out, they should be stored.
 
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Well I pulled out of the driveway last night enroute to the local advance auto to have them scan the codes. Of course as soon as I pulled out the warning lights went out. So I just parked it. Gonna use it to go to work tomorrow night so we shall see whats going on. Thanks for the help so far.
Those are stored in the computer until you drive some distance I think its like 50 miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thats news to me. I didn't know they were stored. Thank you.
 

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Well I pulled out of the driveway last night enroute to the local advance auto to have them scan the codes. Of course as soon as I pulled out the warning lights went out. So I just parked it. Gonna use it to go to work tomorrow night so we shall see whats going on. Thanks for the help so far.
Check your battery terminals and make sure they are tightened down. Weird things like what you just experienced can happen when the terminals aren't tight.
 

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Mine heads back to the dealer tomorrow for the same issue. Last week, they replaced a stop switch and thought they had solved the problem, but it came right back. I'm also convinced its a wheel speed sensor gone bad, and will have a note taped to the dash for the tech, suggesting that.
 

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Check your battery terminals and make sure they are tightened down. Weird things like what you just experienced can happen when the terminals aren't tight.
This. I installed my CB power to the battery and a week later my dash lights were going haywire when I went over bumps. After stressing over it for a few days I finally opened the hood and check the cables. Sure enough the negative was loose enough to wiggle. Tightened it down and it's been all good ever since. Your issue sounds very similar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Quick update. Battery cables are all tight. No lights since the original occurrence. Drove to work Tues., Wednesday and Thursday night, no issues. I guess I'll just wait and see.
Thanks for the suggestions all.
I can't help but think the battery is the culprit though. It became completely discharged on our way home from Fla in April when we were dragging it behind our motor home and lost the charging line from the MH to the Jeep. I charged it up when we got home and when I tried to use the recondition function of my charger it stated it could't because it had an open/sulfated cell.

Bob
 

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Had mine come on here and there then on fully, turned out to be my front passenger wheel bearing starting to fail


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well I have an update. A week or so ago I received a letter in reference to a recall involving the front two wheel sensors as well as the two brake lines hoses. I thought it was worth a shot to take it to the dealer and see if they could pull up the code(s) and honor the recall. They did, said it was a front wheel sensor and are replacing both fronts and the two brake line hoses.

Just an FYI

Thanks for all the help.

Bob
 

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I am not giving you a hard time, but I have to ask this question. Why is everyone's first assumption bad fuses?

Here is my advice for the future. Did you know that for the low price of $17.78, you can read just about every single diagnostic trouble code that your jeep can throw at you, and impress your friends by diagnosing their vehicles from your cell phone?

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scan..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=J7KW2VPYM0H0DC4214FD

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

and newer jeeps will display codes for you on the dash.
 

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Looking at the spec sheet, "not for ABS or SRS". So no help with this problem. Pretty cool for the realtime display though.
ABS works fine for me. SRS faults are pretty uncommon.

at the bottom of this screenshot you can see a VSS code. It's always there, I dont have all of my sensors and the ones I do have give me issues occasionally. Ignore the other stuff, evidently when your lower engine harness gets cut, you get a whole lot of codes.

 

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I trouble shot this similar problem for 3 months with my 2012 JK. Issue was found that the battery terminal connection was the root cause. They were tight but I had my winch and aux lighting on the terminals too. That caused it to actually not tighten enough, but torque was fine and didn't seem loose.

Got a set of quadratec HD batter terminals and never had the issue again.

So question I would ask is, do you have any accessories on your stock terminals currently?
 

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I trouble shot this similar problem for 3 months with my 2012 JK. Issue was found that the battery terminal connection was the root cause. They were tight but I had my winch and aux lighting on the terminals too. That caused it to actually not tighten enough, but torque was fine and didn't seem loose.

Got a set of quadratec HD batter terminals and never had the issue again.

So question I would ask is, do you have any accessories on your stock terminals currently?
Were you using the middle terminal? Because that's not a terminal, it's a tapered nut that tightens the clamp.
 

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I trouble shot this similar problem for 3 months with my 2012 JK. Issue was found that the battery terminal connection was the root cause. They were tight but I had my winch and aux lighting on the terminals too. That caused it to actually not tighten enough, but torque was fine and didn't seem loose.

Got a set of quadratec HD batter terminals and never had the issue again.

So question I would ask is, do you have any accessories on your stock terminals currently?
Were you using the middle terminal? Because that's not a terminal, it's a tapered nut that tightens the clamp.
No, I had a generic aftermarket battery thermal, not the stock one. Not sure if the side load was pulling up on it or since it was a cheep aftermarket one the ID wasn't correct. I ordered oem terminals and the HD terminal (which I just a bus bar really).

Either way this problem, for me, was due to connection to the battery.
 
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