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Discussion Starter #1
So if I put on flat fenders and installed a 2" lift, am I really going to be in bad shape with 33x12.5x15 tires?

As strange as it may sound, I really wouldn't mind the 'tighter' look of the tires with a smaller lift, just as long as I can drive and turn without any problems.

The guy I spoke with said he could make an adjustment to a 'pin' or something on the wheels to prevent any rubbing. I am completely new to all this so all of my knowledge is coming from what I learn here.
 

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For offroading, 2" of lift doesn't provide enough clearance for 33" tires, 4" is recommended. For street use so long as you don't have to drive over any big dips or bumps much which would cause the tires to rub, maybe you'd be ok.

This is the adjustment you'd make if the inside sidewall rubs when you turn the steering wheel all the way left or right. Jeep Steer Stop Adjustment

Personally I wouldn't run 33's with just a 2" lift but you'd be ok with 32x11.50 tires.
 

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My 99 TJ. Suspension was stock except for stock LJ springs and a 3/4" spacer on the front springs to compensate for the winch. Also had a 1.25" body lift. MCE flat fenders in front, no fender flares or inner wells in back. 33x10.50 KM2s on Pro comp 15" steel.wheels with around 4" backspacing. No rubbing offroad even when disconnected. So, yes, i dont agree with Jerry on this one issue,(everything else usually :). It is possible to run 33s successfully on very little lift.



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Discussion Starter #4
For offroading, 2" of lift doesn't provide enough clearance for 33" tires, 4" is recommended. For street use so long as you don't have to drive over any big dips or bumps much which would cause the tires to rub, maybe you'd be ok.

This is the adjustment you'd make if the inside sidewall rubs when you turn the steering wheel all the way left or right. Jeep Steer Stop Adjustment

Personally I wouldn't run 33's with just a 2" lift but you'd be ok with 32x11.50 tires.

Yes that is exactly the adjustment I was talking about. Thank you for clearing that up for me =)

And no, I don't plan on going off road.


My 99 TJ. Suspension was stock except for stock LJ springs and a 3/4" spacer on the front springs to compensate for the winch. Also had a 1.25" body lift. MCE flat fenders in front, no fenders or inner wells in back. 33x10.50 KM2s on Pro comp 15" steel.wheels with around 4" backspacing. No rubbing offroad even when disconnected. So, yes, i dont agree with Jerry on this one issue,(everything else usually :). It is possible to run 33s successfully on very little lift.
The only difference is I plan on running 33x12.5. Same wheels and similar fenders as you. I just have to learn a little more about that backspacing you mentioned. I know its a very common thing. I'm just still new to all this and getting a handle on everything.
 

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Heres a couple pics on an RTI ramp before the MCE flat fenders. I had just flattened the stock fenders with liberal use of a sawzall. The sway bar is disconnected. Not real impressive flex, but this is basically stock suspension. Comes close but the bumpstops at stock height bottomed out before any rubbing.



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Discussion Starter #6
While I'm at it... Can I just confirm that it is ok to run 33x12.5" tires on 15x8" wide rims? OR are they going to be too narrow?
 

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Yes that is exactly the adjustment I was talking about. Thank you for clearing that up for me =)

And no, I don't plan on going off road.

The only difference is I plan on running 33x12.5. Same wheels and similar fenders as you. I just have to learn a little more about that backspacing you mentioned. I know its a very common thing. I'm just still new to all this and getting a handle on everything.
The lower the backspacing number the further your tires and wheels will be away from your suspension, and the wider the stance. Downside is added stress to parts like wheel bearings. Stock backspacing of say 5.5" is a flat looking wheel that tucks the tires under your fenders. With around 4" or less you can run a wider tire without rubbing.
 

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While I'm at it... Can I just confirm that it is ok to run 33x12.5" tires on 15x8" wide rims? OR are they going to be too narrow?
No, thats fine. You could run 8" or 10". Most guys run 8" cuz it holds the bead better when aired down off road
 

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While I'm at it... Can I just confirm that it is ok to run 33x12.5" tires on 15x8" wide rims? OR are they going to be too narrow?
15x8 is fine for that tire. 15x8 wheels are actually preferred by offroaders for 33x12.50 and 35x12.50 tires since that width wheel hangs onto the tire more securely when it is aired down for offroading.
 

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15x8 is fine for that tire. 15x8 wheels are actually preferred by offroaders for 33x12.50 and 35x12.50 tires since that width wheel hangs onto the tire more securely when it is aired down for offroading.
We can call that one a tie Jerry lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Jerry and Gus for the help.

One final question... If I do the 2" lift/steer stop adjustment, then determine later on I need more clearance, can I just add a 1.25 BL and avoid wasting too much money?

Thanks again!
 

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Thanks Jerry and Gus for the help.

One final question... If I do the 2" lift/steer stop adjustment, then determine later on I need more clearance, can I just add a 1.25 BL and avoid wasting too much money?

Thanks again!
Absolutely! In fact, you really should do that right away along with a 1"motor mount lift. It will help improve your driveshaft angle to avoid possible vibes, and down the road enable you to do a tummy tuck, (flat tcase skid to replace the low hanging stocker). Not to mention give you more tire clearance. JKS sells a nice bl/mml for around $125.
 

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Not to be a pic whore, but heres my old LJ with a 2" suspension and 1.25 bl on 33x12.50 tires and 15x8" procomp soft 8s with 4" backspace. I did trim the stock flares a little.



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Not to be a pic whore, but heres my old LJ with a 2" suspension and 1.25 bl on 33x12.50 tires and 15x8" procomp soft 8s with 4" backspace. I did trim the stock flares a little.
Which makes my earlier made point recommending 4" of clearance that was disagreed with perfectly clear... that without removing the fender flares, 2" of clearance isn't enough for 33" tires. In that example, it took 3.25" of extra clearance (a 2" suspension lift plus a 1.25" body lift) plus trimming the factory fender flares to clear 33" tires.
 

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Which makes my earlier made point that was disagreed with perfectly clear... that without removing the fender flares, 2" of clearance isn't enough for 33" tires. It took 3.25" of extra clearance (2" suspension plus 1.25" body lift) plus trimming the flares to clear 33" tires.
But what about my TJ? Your thinking is correct, but all Im saying, and in fact its what many of JPs lcg builds have done as well as the Rokmen Freak builds, is fit larger tires without big lifts by utilizing fender and body changes. When you say 4" of lift is needed that doesnt necessarily mean all suspension or body lift, although a combination of many different things can accomplish.the.same result. Straight 4" suspension, 3" suspension 1"bl, 2" suspension 1" bl and flare trim. No suspension, 1" bl and trimming and body modification such as hi line fenders and hood. Lots of ways to fit big tires.
 

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I'm no fan of the current over-hyped LCG fad keeping the chassis and undercarriage as close the terrain as possible... aka LCG. Minimal extra ground clearance is fine for Jeeps only driven on trails without big obstacles or mall Jeeps but minimal extra ground clearance ala LCG/no suspension lift won't get you over significant trail obstacles like more ground clearance will.

You can build a rig with good additional ground clearance with as low of a center-of-gravity as possible of course but without that additional ground clearance, you're limited to doing trails that are either gentle or nearly obstacle free.

My TJ has a COG that is low enough that I can be on SEVERELY off-camber trails without flopping over on its side yet it still has a 4" suspension lift, 1" BL,35" tires, and belly-up skidplate which still drags on many of the trails I do.

So you can push LCG all you want but on tough trails, there's no substitution for ground clearance which simply isn't there without a decent amount of suspension lift and additional tire diameter.

To me, it doesn't take much more than a little common sense to keep a rig's COG low enough that it is stable on any trail imaginable. Like avoiding high-mounted jerry cans and roof racks. I've made no special LCG allowances on my non-oriented TJ yet its COG is low enough that it'll handle trails that are more off-camber than 99% of the offroaders here would be comfortable driving on.

LCG sounds great to new offroaders who are still afraid they're going to tip over on even minor off-camber sections but it's not something an experienced offroader with a thoughtful build is overly concerned with.
 

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This debate can be found on jeep forums all over the net. To each his own, build it how ya want to fit your needs. :)
 

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I'll stop with this comment... that when I have had to strap or winch someone up or over an obstacle, it was either a Jeep where the Jeeper had been convinced to go with an LCG build, or they were too new to have installed enough suspension lift yet. Either way they couldn't get their Jeep past the obstacle. Subscribe to the LCG/no suspension lift school of thought if you want but...
 

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But.....already knowing your thoughts on it I should have stayed out of this thread. I was only trying to present the OP with another option and some evidence it can be done. Doesnt sound like he's planning to wheel the Hammers anytime soon lol
 

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I wasn't thinking Hammers, I was thinking the gentler trails up in the local mountains or desert areas we take newer Jeepers on.
 
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