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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im just curious what a 3inch lift (teraflex) and tube fenders would look like with 33s and if it would be a good setup as a DD and moderate trail use. Pictures are appreciated but a simple yes or no would work just fine :happyyes:
 

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The 3" lift should be sufficient enough lift without any body mods to clear 33's. I'm about to throw 33's under mine and all I have is a 3" lift.
 

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Tube fenders that don't require cutting of the hood will not increase clearance over stock.

Depending on your shocks, a 3" lift with 33s will need some added bump stop extension to keep the tires out of the steel fenders. You will lose some suspension up travel. Add a 1.25" body lift. The goal with any lift and larger tires is to maintain at least the 4" of stock up travel.
 

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Alot of people believe they get more room out of tube fenders which is really not the case, even metalcloak overlines. The height at which the fenders are, are the same level as the lip, and brackets under which the stock fenders are. As jjvw stated, the only way to get clearance is a true hiline, one that requires you cut three + inches off the hood.
 

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With 3.5" of total lift I was still able to make contact with the (trimmed 1") plastic portion of my stock fenders.

I had no plans to replace them but the stock fenders were ruined via theft and recovery. So I decided to install Poison Spyder aluminum "Defenders". They are not a high line fender, and did not require cutting of the hood. However, I noticed 2 unexpected things:

1) I have about 2" more clearance now, and the tires no longer rub at full flex.

2) The rear portion of the new flares actually protects my windows from tire spray more effectively than the stock fenders did.

I am very impressed with the quality of the Poison Spyder fenders and I won't be going back to stock anytime soon.
 

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Forgot to note that my wheels do have decreased back spacing compared to stock, so that may affect which locations my tires make contact with first.
 

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What people forget is that the factory flares are flexible plastic. They are designed to move out of the way. What matters is the steel portion of the fender.

This is yet another reason we all should perform full bump test and correctly set the bump stops when making changes to our Jeeps.
 
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