Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm new to jeep mods and I'm trying to figure out what is required to upgrade to 35 inch tires from 31 inch tires. I'd like to get 35s with a 2.5 inch lift. My main questions are do you need to regear and get a new rear tire carrier for the extra weight? If there is anything else required please let me know that also. In addition, any recommendations on 2.5 inch lifts. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
There are a lot of people running 35's on stock gears (I was one) and although it isn't horrible, it isn't the best. I didn't regear until I installed the 37's and wished I had sooner.

There are also a lot of Jeeps hanging 35's from the stock tailgate, including those modded from the factory. It doesn't seem to be an issue for daily driver use, but any offroading will have that 35 adding additional stress to the gate. Aftermarket swing away carriers are nice, or the heavy duty aftermarket hinges work well if you want the factory look.

All depends on how you plan on using the Jeep.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
I'm running 35s on the factory Rubicon/tow package gears and I actually prefer it for daily driving around town(manual transmission.) I always felt I had to shift out of first gear too early with the factory Rubicon wheels.
You can put a 35 on the rear, just make sure to extend the bumpstops on the tailgate so the weight is better distributed. On my first jeep I didn't do that and the tailgate/hinges started squeeking after a few thousand miles.
I think 2-2.5" lift is perfect for 35s. I have flat fenders with that amount of lift and have recently been thinking that I may go to 37s. I just know that I will have to spend a good amount of money on supporting mods to make it work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
I'm actually waiting on my first set of 35"s to be delivered. They're going on a fresh Teraflex 2.5" coil/spring lift. To my knowledge, there are many on this forum running the Teraflex setup as it is a very good one. If you do the 2.5" lift with the 35" tires, it is highly recommended that you also upgrade your front track bar with an adjustable (and beefier) track bar. It will help you center your front axle after your lift and provides far more stability in your steering input. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
I should specify that I have a 2012 Sport two door
Which gears do you have now? 3.21, 3.73 or 4.10(Rubicon)?

3.21 I would regear for 35's. If not, your acceleration will be terrible, and crawling offroad may be difficult.

3.73 or 4.10 you would be ok, but may want to eventually regear to 4.56 or 4.88. Good time to consider lockers and such (if non-Rubicon)

If you are going for a true 35x12.5 tire and do go off-roading, I would upgrade the tire carrier.

You may want to consider strengthening the front axle if you do any moderately serious wheeling.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
352 Posts
I have 4.10's and an automatic transmission with 35" tires. It seems to run great in all aspects with the 4.10's. I have no plans on regearing at all, unless I decide to go to 37's.

I agree with above, if you're running 3.21's, drive it around first before making any decision, but you will probably not be satisfied with the results.

I ran the stock tire carrier for a while before upgrading, I highly recommend upgrading it, especially going offroad or living in a pot-hole infested city.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,863 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,891 Posts
I've driven lifted rigs with 3.21's as well as 4.10's (AEV JK350 is a 4.10 set-up)
the 3.21's after calibration aren't horrible.

IMO - and I will follow this advice..... when/If I lift and go to 35's I will drive around on 4.10's :)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,660 Posts
IMO 35's are perfect for a 2 door JK. Any problem I can't solve on 35's is more of a problem than I'd care to take on with larger tires... but that's just me. My Rubi has a stick and 4.10 gears and think it's a damn good all around setup for 35's.

(The only time it sucks is in 6th overdrive on Cascade mountain passes. I end up dropping down to 5th and pulling the pass at 55 instead of 60. Fine by me.)
 

·
Let the Jeepn Times Roll
Joined
·
2,042 Posts
IMO 35's are perfect for a 2 door JK. Any problem I can't solve on 35's is more of a problem than I'd care to take on with larger tires... but that's just me. My Rubi has a stick and 4.10 gears and think it's a damn good all around setup for 35's.

(The only time it sucks is in 6th overdrive on Cascade mountain passes. I end up dropping down to 5th and pulling the pass at 55 instead of 60. Fine by me.)
I agree with this. Also any tire over 35 on a 2 door (imo) looks like balloons going down the road. A jku looks great with 37's and a jk with 35's. Vehicle size to tire size proportion here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
If you were going to try and split the cost down the middle for this assuming I'm wanting to do this in two stages. How would you do it? I'm wanting to regear, get a new tire carrier, 35 inch tires and a 2.5 inch lift kit.
 

·
Let the Jeepn Times Roll
Joined
·
2,042 Posts
Keep in mind I currently only have 31 inch tires.
Dealers in my area mod new jku sport wranglers with lightweight 35 inch tires and a 2.5 lift on 3.21 gears. They include the superchips flashcal for the tire change to the speedo. I test drove one to see if I was a pig. Surprisingly it wasn't bad at all. Got up to speed fairly quickly. They put the 35 tire on the tire carrier as well with different tire stops. My suggestion would be to do the lift and tires first, drive it and see how it goes and carry on from there. Im not sure what model you have our what gears you're running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
I've been running 35s with 3.21 gears on my 2014 JKU for months, and love the set up, both on and off road. I do light to moderate trails but nothing extreme, i.e. rock crawling, if you're in the same boat you should do well without re-gearing.

You will need an aftermarket tire carrier if you intend to keep your spare on the outside. I tried to use the stock carrier but heard the sounds of metal creaking and bending when going over bumps after a few days, so I went with the Teraflex oversized carrier and the tire is rock solid, no issues since.

Depending on the type of off roading you plan on doing you may wish to beef up other components but I have little experience with that so others will chime in I'm sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
I'm running 35s on the factory Rubicon/tow package gears and I actually prefer it for daily driving around town(manual transmission.) I always felt I had to shift out of first gear too early with the factory Rubicon wheels.
You can put a 35 on the rear, just make sure to extend the bumpstops on the tailgate so the weight is better distributed. On my first jeep I didn't do that and the tailgate/hinges started squeeking after a few thousand miles.
I think 2-2.5" lift is perfect for 35s. I have flat fenders with that amount of lift and have recently been thinking that I may go to 37s. I just know that I will have to spend a good amount of money on supporting mods to make it work.

I just put on 35" KM2's and am thinking about the Mopar Big Brake Kit as the next upgrade. Maybe re-gearing after that.

As for extending the bump stops - good idea - I had not thought of that. Does anyone offer those off-the-shelf, or did you mod the existing ones?

Edit: Never mind! Found lots of re-work suggestions on this forum as well as others!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
I can't imagine the 3.21's on 35's. I have 3.73's with 35's and it was a huge difference in acceleration when I went from factory 32's. I am out of overdrive all the time now on moderate hills that it use to pull just fine with the 32's. It's not too annoying, but 3.21's would never work for me on 35's.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
What I did (just one guy's opinion/approach) is:
1. Starting from stock (for me = 4.10 gears & 32" tires)
2. Lift 2.5" (Rock Krawler 2.5" stock mod + bilstein 5100 shocks, extended brake lines, 3" bump stops, rear sway bar link).
3. DRIVE IT FOR A WHILE.
4. After #3, realize I want 35s. I do rock crawl, etc.
5. Not wanting to risk axle or tailgate damage (given rock crawling):
5a. Artec front axle armor kit (truss & gussets, etc.).
5b. Teraflex rear tire carrier
6. Bought new wheels & tires. I didn't want to squeeze 35s onto the factory 7.5 wide wheels.
7. NEXT: DRIVE IT FOR A WHILE, then 90% likely re-gear to 4.88.

--Gordon
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top