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Discussion Starter #1
In this month's (August) JP magazine they have an article that says you can simply cut off the verticle hanging part of your fenders and a 2d will clear 35"s at full flex. (The JKU can still clear 35"s but their will be rubbing at full flex).
#1) Has anyone done this? In the article, after cutting the fenders, they looked just like the $600 bushwacker fender flares.
#2) If I do this will I have to change my gears to keep any power?
I have the 3.8, 6speed manny, with the 3.73

I am planning on getting my lift in Dec. And I was going to get bigger tires and wheels at that time. But if I can put on 35"s now with no ill-effect, than I am there.:cool:

Thanks
 

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I'd re-gear just to be safe. Cutting the flares are easy, I did the same thing on my TJ and gained 1.5"-2" of extra room. The regearing will be cheaper than a lift. Everyone has a common misconception that the only way to have 35"+ size tires is a high lift. Ha Ha
 

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every jeep I've wheeled with that has 35's is lifted, myself included. I don't understand why folks what to run 35's, but have 0 lift. if the crap you're running on offroad requires no lift, than you don't need 35's.

if your jeep is a street queen, 35's are nothing but negatives. the MPG drops, power takes a hit, warranty on axle parts becomes an issue, the speedo gets f'ed up, and you need to deal with weird issues like aggressive rotations, alignment, and balancing. not to mention dropping $1000 per set, and the rear bumper and carrier need replaced or you can forget about running a spare. if this isnt enough, new wheels or adapters ARE required to prevent the tires from rubbing on the suspension. it's just way too much headache for "looks" and even then, lifted will look better.

to answer your question, yes it works. the pinch seam needs cut off too, so you'll be taking a grinder to the body of the jeep. as for gears, only you can answer that. a lot goes into the "do I need to regear?" question such as driving style, terrain, transmission, etc. my guess is, probably. and you'll need to buy a programmer to correct the speedo.install the tires, run it, and decide if you need more power.
 

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TJ Fender Flares

I'd re-gear just to be safe. Cutting the flares are easy, I did the same thing on my TJ and gained 1.5"-2" of extra room. The regearing will be cheaper than a lift. Everyone has a common misconception that the only way to have 35"+ size tires is a high lift. Ha Ha
What did you use to cut your flares on your TJ? Was it hard? Did it turn out good? Post a pic of the new lines?
 

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:cool:Heh Heh, so a $1500 buck rerearing is cheaper than a $99 buck lift--???

As soon as you change the size of the ISSUE stock suspension components on these jeeps--there's going to be "ill effects"

Not only will the 35's screw up everything as GH say's, but untill you cut or change your front bumpers they will cause "TERRIBLE" noises and tear up the stock bumper in reverse, sharp turns!

If you install 35" tires-you open a big bag of worms and you have to be ready to modify the jeep a lot more, to run them successively !!

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
 

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So... what about running 33s with no lift? I've read elsewhere in the forum that they might rub a bit at this size, but this thread seems to contradict that. Also, just with 33s, would any regearing/speedo/etc be required?
 

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:cool: Every jeep is a little bit different and ALL owners drive differently !


So... what about running 33s with no lift? I've read elsewhere in the forum that they might rub a bit at this size, but this thread seems to contradict that. Also, just with 33s, would any regearing/speedo/etc be required?
There isn't a GENERAL fix, that works for everyone--

All tire sizes are different, when installed-ie: 33" tires are not 33" when on your jeep, same with 32/34/35" tires/wheels, but

The jeep can be supplied with stock 32" tires, so 33" would seem to be OK, well ??

Here again, it depends on the tiremfg, cause the SIZE will be different

If youi put XX33" tires on your stock wheels, chances are they will rub (a little on sharp turns and chances are the will rub a little on the front bumper on sharp turns and chances are if you hit a railroad track/pothole---at speed--one or both of your front fenders will be COMPROMISED !!

I've got 33" but I had to do a lot because they're BIG 33's, lift/fenders/bumpstops/shocks

It ain't an easy bolt-on mod !!

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
 

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33's still rub the fenders, and if you get a 12.5" wide tire, as alot of 33's are, new wheels or adapters are needed.

I'm assuming you're doing this for looks. best route IMO is get a 32" mud terrain. no modifications needed. starting at 33 you need mods, and the bigger you go, the more mods needed to pull it off.

a 33 will knock the speedometer out a little, and screw up auto shift points, lose 1-2MPG's, and you'll experience a power loss.

you don't just skate with tire size increases. especially with JK's, there's this myth that you can basically just slap on 33's or 35's and be done with it. I'm running 35's on my 2 door. when I'm done, my suspension will be almost totally replaced, along with my driveline. I've got shocks, springs, and a rear trackbar, and still need front LCA's, rear UCA's, and 2 new driveshafts...at least. my front D30 will need addressed in the future with gussets and shafts. 35's are heavy and a lot of stress on axles. I also had to modify the engine with a chip to avoid a $1500 re-gear. but I'm on 4.10's so I don't know if you'll get away with it running on 3.73.

it's a lot of work, time, and money. and we haven't even talked about breaking sh*t yet :rofl:

go 32" mudders. just that changes the look dramatically.

go 33" if you want. cut the fenders, and the pinch seam. buy some new wheels with the correct BS, a programmer, and you'll be ok.
 

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I BOUGHT MY 2010 SPORT JK NEW WITH 3" LIFT 35" TIRES. THE FIRST DAY THE COMPUTER WENT AFTER WAITING FOR 3 DAYS THEY GOT ONE IN , THEN I HAD TO WAIT FOR THEM TO REPROGRAM THE TIRES INTO THE COMP, THEY COULD ONLY SET IT TO 33". I WOUND UP GONIG TO THE SHOP (FORTEC) THAT INSTALLED THE LIFT KIT THEY SET THE COMP AT THE CORRECT TIRE SIZE. NOW IVE BEEN DEALING WITH THE 3.8 ENGINE THAT HAS NO BALLS. WHEN DRIVING ON I-95, 65 IS THE CRUISING SPEED TILL I COME TO A HILL THE TRANNY WILL DOWNSHIT UP AND DOWN, THEIR IS NO THROTTLE RESPONCE. I'M THINKING OF GOIG TO JEEP AND TELLING THEM THEY NEED TO PUT SOME GEARS INTO THE REARS AND BEING THAT I BOUGHT THE JEEP ALL SET UP I THINK IT'S THERE RESPONCIBILITY TO MAKE THE CORRECTIONS SO I CAN AT LEAST GO ON A TRIP WITHOUT HAVEING TO HAVE MY JEEP CONSTANLY SHIFTING UP AND DOWN. IT ALSO SHIFTS UP AND DOWN ON A STRAIGHT RUN TILL I CAN GET IT UP TO 70mph AND KEEP FEATHERING THE GAS PEDAL. DOES ANYONE ELSE HAVE THI PROBLEM ? I'M WONDERING IF A PROGRAMMER WILL LET ME ADJUST THE TRANNY SHIFTING SO I CAN AT LEAST DO THE SPEED LIMIT. I'M SURE A HEMI WOULD FIX THE PROBLEM.THANX ROY
 

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A programmer should help with your automatic's shifting issues. Did you buy this Jeep without a test drive? Try turning off the "caps lock" and using a period or comma evey so often. It will make your posts easier to read.
 

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I did take A test drive, but I guess not A long enough one. I had the computer problem the day after I bought it, it seemed OK the first day 30 miles. I did add A k&n air system & A gibson cat back dual exaust system. It seems the 3.8 just has no balls. Any ideas on A programmer? Thanks Roy
 

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I did take A test drive, but I guess not A long enough one. I had the computer problem the day after I bought it, it seemed OK the first day 30 miles. I did add A k&n air system & A gibson cat back dual exaust system. It seems the 3.8 just has no balls. Any ideas on A programmer? Thanks Roy
CAI's and exhausts have little to no effect on this engine. there's 3 things you can do that work...

1.)PROGRAMMER-good for a mild horsepower boost (Superchip) by modifications of the compression ratio.

2.)LOWER GEARS-lower gears simply make better use of power transmitted from the engine to the tires. mild-moderate gains can be expected in the towing department, and off-set the effects large tires have on the transmission.

3.) ENGINE SWAP-self explanatory. want more power? get a LARGER engine. HEMI's respond very well to JK's, but with any swap, transmission, fuel system, and driveline modifications are needed.

Jeeps aren't fast. they aren't ment to be. they suck at towing. these aren't Mustangs, or Chargers, or Camaros. if your jeep sees street/offroad duty, get gears and/or a programmer. offroad only, gears and or engine swap. it's that simple. or buy on with the new 3.6 engine when it gets released. I seriously doubt though the 3.6 is going to be as good as folks think.
 

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the CAI and exhaust may have actually hurt your performance a little.

Superchips Flashpaq is by far the best bang for your buck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
every jeep I've wheeled with that has 35's is lifted, myself included. I don't understand why folks what to run 35's, but have 0 lift. if the crap you're running on offroad requires no lift, than you don't need 35's.
Unfortunatley I don't think I ever said, or even hinted towards me doing this "just for looks"...
Bought the Jeep, because I'm not a "Stock kind of person" sound firmiliar? As I mentioned I plan to get my suspension lift in Dec. when I have the $$ to do so. Unfortunately, I couldn't buy a $25,000 vehicle just to turn around and drop another $5K-$10K right back into it. So for me it's baby steps. I live about 1.5 hrs from the Rubi and plan to get my girl Rubicon ready by next spring. I'm no fan of Pavement pounders or "Street Queens" And right now I'm trying to make changes that won't hinder my final goal, but still allow me to get closer to Rubicon ready without haveing to make all the changes at one time...
I don't see how 33"s will rub when JP magazine said a 2dr will clear 35"s at full flex. Thanks for the tips though.

Once again if anyone has actually cut the fenders and had clearance issues/non-issues your input would be greatly apreciated.
 

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:cool: I have the 2" lift and I still had to cut the INSIDE of the Bushwackers and I have extended bumpstops, if I need to limit it more in the front, my back tires clear OK and I have bumpstop extensions on the back (2") !!

If you put 35" tires on now and expect to "Drive easy" till December--good luck

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
 

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If you put 35" tires on now and expect to "Drive easy" till December--good luck

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
Thanks for the heads up. Did you have to move your breakline too? Like I said I plan to someday be where you guys are at. Right now i'm trying not to screw any of my progress up, with lame cheap tricks.:(
 

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I don't see how 33"s will rub when JP magazine said a 2dr will clear 35"s at full flex. Thanks for the tips though.

Once again if anyone has actually cut the fenders and had clearance issues/non-issues your input would be greatly apreciated.
now im not knocking this idea or anything. i think 35s on a stock jeep is a cool idea. would have great under axle clearance, but still have a very low center of gravity.

that said, JP magazine has said a few things that caused me to raise an eyebrow. just saying..

now if you trim your flares, and you still rub, then you can always put a spacer in there till you get your lift on.
but you should try it if you want, and post pics, would look really cool.
 

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the CAI and exhaust may have actually hurt your performance a little.

Superchips Flashpaq is by far the best bang for your buck.
Disagree with your comments about CAI and exhausts actually hurting performance. Did not happen to me. Installed K & N model 63-1553 and MBPR S5516BLK exhausts and definately getting better response. These were coupled with the Superchips Flashpaq which I had previously installed. The combination works very well. Gained back the MPG I lost when I insalled 33x12.5 tires and much better acceleration in 1st through 5th gears. 6th is still some what of an issue which will only be corrected when I regear.
 

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:cool: Heh Heh, yea I extended the rear brakelines down 3" and the fronts are OK


Thanks for the heads up. Did you have to move your breakline too? Like I said I plan to someday be where you guys are at. Right now i'm trying not to screw any of my progress up, with lame cheap tricks.:(
Don't use the K&N airfilter,(oiled) PITA and will cause troubles Off-road
Use the FRAM Pt#10348 airfilter and at $13 bucks a pop--no biggee

Don't forget to check out the exit point (frame/fender well liner)of your front and back lines, where they MAY be interfered with by the inner fender liner-

There's a TSB out on that, mine are clear NOW !!

Good luck, you sound like you've gotit under control !!

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
 

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Unfortunatley I don't think I ever said, or even hinted towards me doing this "just for looks"...
Bought the Jeep, because I'm not a "Stock kind of person" sound firmiliar? As I mentioned I plan to get my suspension lift in Dec. when I have the $$ to do so. Unfortunately, I couldn't buy a $25,000 vehicle just to turn around and drop another $5K-$10K right back into it. So for me it's baby steps. I live about 1.5 hrs from the Rubi and plan to get my girl Rubicon ready by next spring. I'm no fan of Pavement pounders or "Street Queens" And right now I'm trying to make changes that won't hinder my final goal, but still allow me to get closer to Rubicon ready without haveing to make all the changes at one time...
I don't see how 33"s will rub when JP magazine said a 2dr will clear 35"s at full flex. Thanks for the tips though.

Once again if anyone has actually cut the fenders and had clearance issues/non-issues your input would be greatly apreciated.
oh ok, my bad. if that's the case, why don't you buy the tires, stack em' in the garage. then when you get the lift, throw it all on at once. that's how I did it. save the stress and headache of fitting 35's on a stock suspension, ya know?

I'll tell you what. my lift gave me a hair over 3" of actual lift. now my 35's don't rub, but running a big boy rock trail like the Rubicon, I bet they'd hit. that's 3" with maybe a 1/2" fender shave I'd probably need. I'd imagine 35's on a stocker...you may as well remove the fenders all together.
 
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