35"s with a 2.5"lift ?
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No, not even close. 5" of clearance is what you need to successfully run 35" tires. Any less than that will cause severe rubbing if you don't do a lot of body mods/cutting, etc.
To me, the ideal way to run 35" tires is 4" of suspension lift with a 1" body lift.
Keep in mind that Jeeps don't come from the factory prepared to run a tire that big and heavy. The standard Dana 35 rear axle isn't strong enough for 35" tires, you need something stronger in the rear like the optional Dana 44. Plus the steering isn't beefy enough, that needs to beefed up too... at least a stronger aftermarket tie rod. Finally, you'll need to regear your axles to a lower ratio so your engine will have the RPMs to be able to turn that big and heavy of a tire. Not to mention the OE brakes become marginal with that big of a tire.
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If your rear axle's differential cover is perfectly oval and has a black plastic snap-in cover for the lubricant fill hole, it's the standard Dana 35c.
If the cover is more stop-sign shaped with a steel plug in the lubricant fill hole, it is the much stronger optional/extra-cost Dana 44.
If the cover is more stop-sign shaped with a steel plug in the lubricant fill hole, it is the much stronger optional/extra-cost Dana 44.
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It was an option for the sport and sahara models.
That axle will hold up to 35s as is
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Don't cut anything, just do it right the first time & get 5" of clearance around them. You can do that with a 4" suspension lift and a 1" body lift. You'll also want to regear your axles to turn that big & heavy of a tire... $1200 or so. And your stock OE tie rod won't hold up for long to that size of tire either.
Going to a 35" tire size on a Wrangler is a major step that requires several upgrades, don't kid yourself that it isn't.
Going to a 35" tire size on a Wrangler is a major step that requires several upgrades, don't kid yourself that it isn't.
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3,171 Posts
You could get a set of metalcloaks and not have to cut anything or you could get a set of genright hi-lines or anyother type of hi-lines and cut you hood.
With 35s your gonna have to upgrade your tie rod, your gonna want to regear and if you plan on off roading at all your gonna want to put chormolly shafts in both axles.
With 35s your gonna have to upgrade your tie rod, your gonna want to regear and if you plan on off roading at all your gonna want to put chormolly shafts in both axles.
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Jeep Wrangler TJ and TJ Unlimited (LJ) Tube Fenders & Body Armor
Your supposed to be able to run 35s w/o a lift
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60 Posts
some have mentioned upgrading the steering box with 35's. makes sense but I was curious how much life can be squeezed out of a factory box. I'm buying the metalcloak 3.5" game changer short arm kit, fenders, sye, rear drive shaft, wheels & tires in one shot and something is going to have to wait lol. I assumed as long as I stuck to uneven terrain and avoided rock crawling I'd be fine.
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Highlined fenders and a 2.5" suspension lift wouldn't be considered doing it right?Jerry Bransford said:Don't cut anything, just do it right the first time & get 5" of clearance around them. You can do that with a 4" suspension lift and a 1" body lift. You'll also want to regear your axles to turn that big & heavy of a tire... $1200 or so. And your stock OE tie rod won't hold up for long to that size of tire either.
Going to a 35" tire size on a Wrangler is a major step that requires several upgrades, don't kid yourself that it isn't.
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